News:

Forum may be experiencing issues.

Main Menu

Mounting the board in a box...

Started by PerS, January 01, 2011, 10:34:10 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

PerS

Hi
I will start to wish you all a good start of the new year.

I have been around on this forum for some time, but "under cover"... my favorite forum, right atmosphere and very creative. As an official member I thought I try to contribute in some way. So her is my contribution at this time.
Looked in a thread a while ago where there was a discussion about how to fix/mount the board in the box. Was supposed to reply there but could not find it again, so it will be in a new thread here.

Have used a method in those projects I have done with vero board layout, but it will work on ordinary boards as well. Its a fairly simple method – I have used aluminum strips with L-shape, 10x16 mm, cut in appropriate size. The length of the strip is the board width. The strip is fixed with double side foam cushion taped to the box wall. Same type is used to fix the vero or for instance Madbeans boards to the strip, as I'm going to do in my next project. If you don't want to use the full width of the box you can us another L-strip and fix that in the bottom of the box, then fix the L-strip to mount the board. There is many more ways of us it, its actually up to the application and imagination.     
I have used an L-strip from Alfer, www.alfer.com. It was 1 meter long, comes in different lengths. Bought it in our local hardware store. The cushions are from Tesa but I'm sure I've seen them from 3M, in pieces or as a strip. Mine are precut. The foam cushions really fix the board and the strip. At first it feels like it will come lose. After about ½ hour you will have to use the knife to bend it loose. The good thing is that you can cut it loose with a razor blade knife, don't need to bend it. Use the thumb to take away leftovers  and clean with ea acetone, good as new and ready to be used again.

Pros
-Stable and flexible fixation of the board
-Cut in the length you need
-Easy taking the board in and out
-Pot's can be mounted under the board (use the 16mm height), goes free underneath.
Cons
-If you have a box that is to low you get problems with cap's that is to high, ea el.lyt caps. They  need to lay down.

I did not succeed in adding photos in the thread so I link to Google Web album... the first, PIC1, shows  the box with the strips mounted. the second, PIC2 the board is mounted and the third, PIC3 shows the L-strip and the foam cushion that I used.




   
Hope it's useful for you. Take care...
//Per

stecykmi


eniacmike

that looks really solid. how do you cut those l-strips?

PerS

I think you ask because you noticed that my main language isn't English, try to test me... :D Yes, I needed to use a lexicon. So I learned something today too...  8).

Anyway I use a hacksaw (think that what it's called... metal saw) and a file to smooth the edges. If it's more complicated work I use my Dremel Clone to grind to correct profile http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Tools/Pages/ToolDetail.aspx?pid=200+Series. In most cases, just cut and smooth the edges, done.

In one project (an A/B switch with relays) I fix the bord a bit tighter due to the extra weight of relays and other circuits. I mounted a profile on top, a piece of 15 mm long L-profile "upside down" to be sure the board didn't accidentally come loose.

I'm goint to try Madbeans FatPants monted vertical later, by fixing the bord standing up. On profil in the bottom and one in the sidwall The foam pad's are isolating so there will not be any shot's.

Let me know if I was fuzzy in any way.
//Per
//Per

CRBMoA

Thanks for sharing. I have never seen that done before, but I like it. Might actually try something similar in the future.

PerS


Sorry, one word i did not check... lexicon, should be dictionary... Almost humour. So, I learnd two things today  ;D

//Per
//Per

CRBMoA

Many people that speak English as their primary language wouldn't have noticed the difference.

You have told your first joke in English.