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Anyone have links to DIY info on DS-1 mods? Interested in the Keeley and Analogman mods.

all good points, thanks!

How long do you usually wait after printing before applying them?

LaserJet is definitely the way to go.  Infact if you have a color laserjet YOU ARE SET.  The main reason is that laserjet decals don't require the extra coating of clear laquer so you don't end up with a rim around the outside of the decal when its done.  Alas...unless its a black & white decal, you need a color laserjet

Thanks for the quick reply!

Like I mentioned, I was thinking of just purchasing the paper, getting the file(s) I have set up right - size and position on paper, and then just taking the file(s) on my junk drive to Kinkos and have them print it on my paper.

I'm not sure what they're charge given that I bring my own paper, but I bet probably what they charge for regular paper printouts: $.15 a page. And since I'm not building pedals constantly, thats the better option then buying a laser printer.

Awesome about not needing the acrylic coating too!

Always pleased to have a line on another US supplier. I'll have to find some things to build and make an order!

Props to David from mklec for responding and working with folks.

I had heard/read before that you couldn't use inkjet waterslides with laser printers so I googled again to clarify and saw that manufactures make laser WSD. I wanted to know if anyone uses them and your experience with them?

I always used the inkjet cause my home printer is inkjet but my printer is shitty and I was never 100% satisfied with the results. I figured I could get the laser paper and just have Kinkos print them for me.

Thoughts?

this is what a dj would call a crossfader.

you mean the latter part of the drawing; the output?

An A/B box would work for the input, choosing whether my guitar goes to Input L or R, but I need to make sure, if possible, there is no load/switch pop when selecting the inputs.

Is there a simple blender or "cross-fader" circuit out there?

I've built my own patch cords for years. Though it is, or may seem (maybe I'm an idiot) like a straight-forward process, from an assembly point of few, I've been experiencing issues with some of my patch cables lately. I'm wounding if it is shotty soldering on my part, or if the plus I'm using aren't that great to begin with and prone to failure; most of the plugs I'm using are taken from longer planet waves cables I resized, and a few others I purchases online, but I can't remember from where or the brand of the plugs. I'm pretty sure they're not Switchcraft or anything.

I've been getting cables that have the ground lift - causing that loud UNGROUNDED noise, but stops when you touch/hold the cable a certain way. I unscrew the sleeve and the solder joints appear to be OK, so Im not sure if the Tip and Sleeve are shorting somewhere I can't see, inside the plug.

I used to use those Radioshack pancake plugs but learned my lesson with those years ago.

Suggestions on what brand plugs to buy? I'd prefer not to spend a lot per plug, plus the cable I'm using is Mogami cable, cut from a long instrument cable. Not bad cable, but not the highest of quality either.

I just saw this today and found it extremely profound. The concept of the movie was very impactful. I think the movie broaches a lot of subjects involving human interaction and thought which the concept and futuristic aspect of the film - and thought it seems futuristic, its very poignant regarding the present.

I dont know if I really get it.

To split your guitar signal into two and feed it to the looper you may want to have a look at JMKs panner circuit. You can use it to pan the signal to the left and right channel or in between.

Not sure if you want to be able to break the signal befor AND after each Looper channel.  If so, you can wire a 3PDT or relay switch as if your Looper is an ordinary effects unit.
If you only want to silence the input and still have the looped signal you use only half of it on the input of the looper.

Hope this helps.

Here is a crude drawing. After some thinking, what I want is basically an A/B box, that makes sense and is easy, that chooses whether my guitar goes into the Jamman's left or Right Inputs.

Then from the outputs of the jam man, the Left and Right go into a blender. When the knob is noon, both outputs sum together and are sent to the amplifier. Panning Left, sends just the left output, Panning Right sends just the right output.

Things I need to not happen; have audible switch pop when choosing inputs...

I have a Digitech Jamman Stereo and I've been using it in Mono, and plan on continuing to do so, but I had an idea to kind of "double" the loops and keep them synced and separated by building a box that would allow me to choose the Input/Output (L/R) I'm using and thus recording into that portion of the circuit.

What would be even cooler is to make a Blend control so I could fade one loop out by panning to the other.

What I'd like is a box that takes my single mono output (from my tremolo pedal) and then somehow splits the signal into Left and Right.

The box would have L and R IN/OUT that would go to the Jamman. I guess the circuit would almost be like a true-bypass looper switcher in a sense.

I need the blend control as mentioned, and but also a way to cut the Input going into the Jamman; the blend would be used to control the output but the Jamman, but I need a way to disable each input, independently, so audio isn't recorded to the both L and R parts of the looper, but just whichever I choose.

Any pointers on a circuit I can elaborate on? I imagine I'll need to make something that is an active circuit? - slitting my Guitar's output into stereo.

I hope my description makes sense.

I forgot who he was still I watched the second video: I've seen it before.

Those fucking pitch bends with the tuners are just unreal. Sounds so amazing - true pitch shifting, no processing. So organic - cause it is! Not to mention he is playing Rhythm while doing that.

Those P&W folk will believe almost anything.

the link in the OP doesn't work...