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Thanks guys.

To answer the first question: I made the trade on a reputable bass forum with a user with good feedback.

Once I finally got the box back yesterday, it smelled like I'd just soldered the thing together, and yet I built it a couple months back now. He'd asked me what kind of power it took, I told him standard 9v just like most other modern pedals out there. He tells me he used it on a One Spot first, then a regulated supply (PP2).

I did use a Tayda voltage reg, but I'd used a bunch from that same order in 6 or 7 other boxes I built and flipped just fine.

In the end, I still have the object I traded for, and if I can find a multimeter to borrow, I can check it out fully, otherwise I'll likely flip it for cost of parts.

I'll say this: it was an easy build and a great sounding delay while it worked!

I built a Deathklaw and it worked flawlessly. The only construction problem I ran into was mounting the green LED on the wrong side of the board, which meant I had to desolder it, which lifted a trace, which I just used a small wire to connect the correct leg of the LED back to the correct spot on the board.

Like I said though, fired up the first time I plugged it in, sounded great. Didn't need a delay, so I traded it for something else. Guy got it, and tells me the Ghost switch didn't do anything in the position that adds the subdivision (don't recall if that's left or right now).

The next day, he tells me the pedal just stopped working; he turns it on and it's all crunchy and fuzzy. Now I'm frustrated; I packed away all my tools save for my soldering iron and moved to where I don't really know anyone with electronics tools.

The pedal should be returned today so I'm hoping it's something as lame or simple as a chip came loose from a socket in shipping even though it was well packed.

I got the PT2399's from SmallBear, my solder joints were hot and clean.

What else should I check for if it isn't a loose wire or something else stupid?

You're good. I've built 3 with the dry kill and 2 had a stomp for the dry kill, no poping from the ones I did.


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What kind of switch did you use?

'Make a noise' as in you think all signal would be cancelled, or did you mean it might pop?

Can one replace the SPST switch with a momentary stomp switch?

Thanks Jimi. I think I'll give it a try, maybe even sacrifice a Tupperware as a test bed, see how it goes.

Anyone put a circuit in a plastic enclosure?

Not just a spare Tupperware but one of the Hammond or similar plastic boxes.

There are some in translucent colors that would look pretty neat with the LED just tucked inside the box.

I'm mildly concerned about structural integrity and the circuit not being properly shielded.

Thanks for the info. I might do the Pi build later, but I just discovered OpenEmu which seems to run just about everything I'd want to play on my Mac.

I have little Linux experience I'm afraid, but if you want to be able to play your old carts themselves, I can wholeheartedly recommend the Retron systems.  The Retron3 (NES, SNES, Genesis) is only 36$ on Amazon at the moment. The Retron5 is a bit pricier, but can play a lot more systems.

My consoles still function, but then there's the hassle of plugging and unplugging or relying on a hub, having enough room for the consoles. I'd much rather go for an emulator and be able to play more than just my collection of carts. Especially since I'm moving and trying to purge a lot of stuff to lighten the load.

Bumping this because I saw a few mentions of Raspberry Pi here.

I game infrequently, but I'm considering a Retropie system so I can play anything I could possibly want. I've got a ton of old S/NES, GB/ GBA, and N64 carts but the problem is that the consoles are old and not always functional.

How hard is setting up a Raspberry Pi when you have no Linux/ command line terminal experience? Are there any guides to it that show step by step screenshots of the setup?

Or can one buy an SD card preformatted for Retropie?

I've got a Dunn Effects built Big Game CVLT preamp/ distortion and it's got a super high-pitched whine. The seller (who etched the enclosure) said it was noisy because of the charge pump (9v pumped up to 18v).

I haven't opened it up to see what kind of charge pump there is, or if it's soldered in, but are there different charge pump chips that could cut that noise, or some other simple mod? I could just put a noise gate after it, but I'd like to see if the pedal can be 'fixed' first.

It does this on an isolated outlet on my Truetone CS12 and a dedicated power supply.

ROG Ginger for a very mild drive.

Something based on the Barbershop would be perfect.

The Southampton Fifth Gear is awesome... I believe it's based on an old Electra Distortion (or overdrive), which apparently is almost the same thing as the EQD Speaker Cranker.

So excited for the VFE boards, really hoping for the Woodchipper!

Very cool. If they could do a tuner with top jacks, that would complete the whole collection nicely.

A copy of the Southampton Fifth Gear which I believe is the same or almost the same as the Earthquaker Speaker Cranker... it's a modified Electra Distortion.