We have all used the cheaper IC sockets in our builds. The ones that look like this:
(https://www.retroamplis.com/WebRoot/StoreES2/Shops/62070367/49DE/5F7B/B3C4/3D5D/3990/C0A8/28B8/3312/DIP8-2_m.jpg)
My question is... how do you seat the IC properly? I have always had issues with the IC sitting crooked or not seating well. Any trusted methods to share? Never have a problem with the machined IC sockets.
I love those sockets, cheap and plentiful.
I use an IC pin straightener and it makes my life a lot easier than squeezing the pins between my fingers. They seem to sit well after that.
https://www.ebay.de/itm/293619559823 (https://www.ebay.de/itm/293619559823)
First, I try to use the Mill-Max sockets that have round holes, they're more secure and easier to align. But for any socket type: ICs come with the legs sprung out a little, so I lay the IC on it's side on a wooden surface (no static) and press gently to align the bottom 4 legs with each other, and to get them close to 90 degrees with the body. Flip it over, same on the other side, and it should go in well.
Quote from: mauman on December 02, 2022, 06:24:01 PM
ICs come with the legs sprung out a little, so I lay the IC on it's side on a wooden surface (no static) and press gently to align the bottom 4 legs with each other, and to get them close to 90 degrees with the body. Flip it over, same on the other side, and it should go in well.
I like to do
exactly what mauman suggested: gently adjusting the pin legs as close to 90* as possible.
I'm a fan of the cheaper, leaf-spring-like sockets myself :) My biggest issue was always bending TF out of the IC pins during installation, and in solving that problem by doing the above, I solved the seating issue.
Quote from: jessenator on December 02, 2022, 06:31:04 PM
Quote from: mauman on December 02, 2022, 06:24:01 PM
ICs come with the legs sprung out a little, so I lay the IC on it's side on a wooden surface (no static) and press gently to align the bottom 4 legs with each other, and to get them close to 90 degrees with the body. Flip it over, same on the other side, and it should go in well.
I like to do exactly what mauman suggested: gently adjusting the pin legs as close to 90* as possible.
I'm a fan of the cheaper, leaf-spring-like sockets myself :) My biggest issue was always bending TF out of the IC pins during installation, and in solving that problem by doing the above, I solved the seating issue.
This is what I do. I use my desk to roll it.
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I prefer the leaf sockets. If the board isn't mounted, once you get the pins aligned, you can push the ICs pretty hard and it kind of snaps in. I've never had an IC come out. I have had some loose ICs with the machined ones and ended up soldering them in place, which kinda defeats the purpose. For straitening, before you press the IC in all the way, you can apply some torque with your fingers and twist the legs into alignment, then snap it into place. I'm going to try the desk method next time. 8)
I use the leaf socket ones because most of what I build are prototypes and it's way more economical to use them. The only suggestion I have is to at least buy your IC dinner and drinks before suggesting insertion.
Quote from: madbean on December 03, 2022, 12:38:57 AM
I use the leaf socket ones because most of what I build are prototypes and it's way more economical to use them. The only suggestion I have is to at least buy your IC dinner and drinks before suggesting insertion.
Bwahahahahaha. I was gonna say, if you lick it, it slides right in, but I like yours better.