IS there any reason any of the following would not work:
1. replaced R2 with a SPDT switching between 3.3K and 39K
2. replaced R4, R10, R15, R20 with a 4PDT switching between 490K and 370K
3. replaced R9 with a SPDT switching between 100K and nothing (omitted)
4. replaced R8 with a 25K pot. term 3 and 2 tied together and 1 is going to R9/R10, etc.
5. replaced R19 with a SPDT switching between 39K and 20K
6. replaced C2 with SPDT switching between 430pf and nothing (omitted)
7. replaced C12 with SPDT switching between .1mf and .47 mf
8. replaced R18 with a jumper wire. i am using the "presence" pot.
the way all switches are wired is the wire coming from the pcb goes to the center lug, then each resistor soldered to the outer lugs. then the remaining end of the the resistors are twisted together and soldered with the return wire going back to the pcb. it seemed fine with both res and caps when i tested them with a meter, but once it all got put together, nothing. i can hear some light popping when i flick some of the switches.
When i fired it all up, i get ZERO signal coming though the board seemingly. i get the dry signal fine. the switch seems wired perfectly. when i raise/lower the volume knob, the typical muff "hiss" gets louder/softer. am i going very wrong somewhere? please help!!!
easiest way is to trace it through with a audio probe or a scope.
i will build a probe, but the mods that i listed off: can anyone tell me, in theory, if any of them work? much thanks.
Oh The mods could work if you properly sorted out the poles on the switches. But in many cases you won't be able to hear much of a difference.
Jacob