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I just bought the older version, I don't think I'd use the new one enough to pay 3x what I got the DCA55 for.

All because a friend had a rummage around in his late grandads loft.  There be Ge trannies here!!  Got enough for quite a few FFs, rangemasters, TB MK2s, and TB Mk3s.  Made selecting them so much easier than the older method with the multimeter, RG's leakage testing circuit, and some calculations.

Nice work!
I was wondering what size enclosure that was going on.  I knew it was kind of an odd size.
Did you guys envirotex the faceplate or just clearcoat?

Clearcoat on the plate. Came out awesome! Cheers dude.

Hole was filled with automotive filler.

That's great Keefe, glad you like the sound of it with the alternative biasing and transistor choices.

We could probably do with an etched plate soon, it will save me a lot of painting on a huge Hurricane Sandy rebuild.

Looking forward to seeing it.

I've got a few parts to order then I'll start on mine.

As usual it will be weeks before it gets boxed up.

Tayda have them too.

You have more patience than me. I hate boxing 1590a, i let juansolo do all the wiring, it drives me nuts.
I'll populate the board and paint the enclosure, but just cant wire them very well.

Those trivibes woud have been perfect for the Leslish pedal, it would have fit in a 1590bb, and still have room for the crossover vero.

These boards have been made for a couple of months waiting to box them up.

Nautilus





TSM680 Mudbunny (very familiar artwork)





Engineer's Thumb compressor, on the best vero layout ever, as easy as a PCB with board mount pots.

http://www.vishay.com/docs/88528/2w005g.pdf

I've got a couple of these pulled from a hifi, 200V bridge rectifier.

Any use to you?  I can stick em in the post tomorrow if you PM me your address.

Build a Paramix, put the wet signal from POG into the input jack, and dry into your dirt boxes, and then into the loop return of the Paramix.  Or,  POG and dirt in the loop of Paramix.

Lots of options with this versatile little circuit.

No problem, i'll figure it out

Cheers
Si

http://www.playonmac.com/en/

Download playonmac, let it install X11 if required, and lots of fonts, then download the Tone Stack Calculator,  and install it within playonmac as a non-listed program.  You should end up with an icon on the desktop, put it in /Applications.   It's how I run the calculator.

last one I did I did a roll your own with the Tayda cheapo LDR. Seemed to work just fine.

From Rapid, not Tayda.

The NSL-32SR3 didn't work well, it was too choppy, and couldn't be dial out.  Much too responsive.

Same artwork as Juansolo's.

Did this with shielded cable to lesson the squeal when the pots are turned up, definately works, pretty much max'd before the squeal.  I've noticed this on all true bypass klones.  The buffered bypass ones don't squeal.

A very familiar decal.
Won't be making any more Klones, they've been assassinated.

Wired as buffered bypass, just to distinguish between Juansolo's, and there was a footswitch lying around with the resistors already soldered in place.

There's no signal at all on the last opamp, somewhere between the 220nf and the opamp, its going to ground.  Will check it in a couple of days.

Juansolo's build he put together today has a very similar issue, no output, but the LED is showing the envelope happening.

I've audio probed each opamp, and it does sound very funky until the final one, no signal at all.  I checked on the switch side of the 220nf cap, and its there, but after nothing.  I'm getting continuity between the bottom 220nf cap pad and ground.  Something is amiss in this area, but won't get a chance for a thorough debug until Wednesday.

I can tell this is a great sounding effect already, just need to get the funk out of it!