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I've had a YY enclosure for years that I want to use but I absolutely suck at drilling -- even when I draw something up on my own, I am always somehow off in my measurements.  Because this was a pricier enclosure, I really want to get this right and not putz around.  Does anybody have a resource for a drill guide for the YY enclosures? 

This is super helpful.  Thank you so much.  I'm going to see if I can find an online tutorial for using Inkscape in general.  Actually -- I'd be keen to compensate someone for a zoom-based tutorial session so I could ask questions along the way.  I did that for a few people who were starting to do podcasting and who wanted to know how to use Garageband and Logic, and the live question option made a big difference.

Thanks so much.  I'm really lost in this right now -- the options themselves are confusing and I cannot even begin to wrap my head around the UV printing stage. 

Hi...I'm wondering if anybody can help me figure out how to use Tayda's drill pattern coordinates tool to have a custom enclosure drilled for a project.  I'm banging my head against the wall trying to make it work and, bless my heart, I just can't. 

I am trying to build up a Wolfshirt, but with a few minor changes to the way it occupies a 125B enclosure:

1. move the octave switch to a second stomp switch at the base of the enclosure parallel with the bypass stomp switch.

2. wire a regular 16mm pot via short normal jumper wires to the pads for the tone control so it can sit in the middle of the enclosure like a "normally" situated tone knob.

3. Top mounted in/out/DC jacks.

4. Little holes for 3mm LED bezels above the stomp switches

I know this is really basic stuff, but I am just running into a wall.  If it was a free-form sort of project without a PCB using board mounted Vol and Fuzz pots, I could probably figure something out that would get close enough to what I want, but I don't know how to calculate for the pre-determined placement of certain components that the PCB demands (i.e., the Vol and Fuzz pots, or precisely where a mid-situated Tone pot should "sit" on the face of the enclosure).

Can anybody help in terms of what I need to do here?  I've tried already but the end result was completely clusterf***ed.

I'm going to build up a Wolfshirt, but really would like to have the octave switch as a footswitch (with an LED signalling when it's engaged).  I've never adapted this sort of switch in this way...can anybody direct me to a diagram or tutorial about how to make this change?  I'm guessing it's likely not terribly complicated, but I want to avoid making mistakes along the way.

Thank you so much...I think that will do the trick really well.  Appreciate the help!

I should specify, this is an older version of the etched board that is very long and thin, and takes the 9MM pots.  I hope that helps.

I'm trying to source the on-board 9mm pots for an etched Zombii board, and I'm not sure where to find them.  Looking at Mouser there's a ton of options, but I'm a little worried I'm going to pick the wrong one/s.  Can anybody tell me the specific part number/s I need to find for the 5K and 10K pots for this project?

Thanks very much in advance.

That's not what I had in mind but it will definitely do the trick -- thank you!

This is going to be a dumb question but I just don't know how else to ask it.  In some very well-built fuzzes that use shielded wire, I have noticed that they are sometimes held in place by little "brackets" that seem mounted to the wall of the enclosure, with little hooks that grab onto the wire, holding them securely in place.  Does anybody know what those little brackets are called, or where to find them?

I'd really like to purchase some of the nice, wide-pitch stripboard that I see used in some of the D*A*M products, but I'm not sure exactly what it is called; my searches on Ebay have not been successful.  Can anybody tell me where I may find stripboard of this type?

I've managed to secure several Mullard OC-series germanium transistors (OC74s and OC76s) that are just the right leakages for a TB MK II, but pretty low gain.  Most are around 35-50Hfe. 

I seem to recall a discussion thread somewhere on another site where someone noted that even these low gains would still work for the circuit with some tweaks.  If memory serves, this involved tweaking the collector resistor on Q1 to be 12-15K rather than 10K.  I can't remember more from the discussion (and of course now, I can't find it!), but I also wonder whether upping the Q2/Q3 feedback resistor to be closer to 150K might help too. 

Does any of this sound feasible to you all?  Can low gainwers like these still work in this circuit with sufficient tweaking/tuning?

I've experimented with having a "starve" pot on a TB Mk II and I like the way it makes the circuit more  -- sweaty, I guess.  Lots of cool tones can be dialed in.  But I am less familiar with the interactions on the Mark III.  Would it similarly react well to having the voltage turned down through such a control, or would the circuit topography just not take well to this and adversely affect the signal and tone?

Thanks so much guys.  This will make it SO much easier on me than all the second-guessing wire stripping I've been doing!

Looking at the guts of some vintage Tonebender clones out there, I see the leads are insulated by colorful tubing that doesn't look like heatshrink tubing, or like the insultion stripped from regular hookup wire.  Anybody know what this stuff is called, and where I could find some?