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I have a Fatpants (2013) that has recently started making pedals placed after it 'pop' when I hit their stomp switch. This only happens to the pedals placed after, not the ones before.

I checked the voltages - when the pedal is bypassed there is  3.5V - 4V on the tip of the output jack which drops to 0V when I turn on the pedal. Turning the knobs (FAT, LVL) or the switches (SOFT, BODY) has no effect on the voltage.

The pedal is currently wired in buffered mode (diagram). I was thinking of re-wiring it into true bypass to fix the problem.

Before I do that, is there a possibility that a component is faulty (C2?, C7?, other? and which one do I check) or maybe the switch became faulty (how would I check that?). I rather switch out a component than rewire the pedal into true bypass.

Here is the schematic:




Thanks for the help!

I'm building a Cupcake (2016 PCB, not the 2020 version) and I have a question about substituting the diodes. I currently have a 1N34 (not 1N34A) and a BAT41. Can I use either? Which one is more recommended? I read midwayfair's post that the diode just affects the compression (https://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=21345.0). Madbean recommends the BAT46.

As far as I know the approximate forward voltages are:
1n314a is around 0.21
1n314 is ?
BAT41 is around 0.36
BAT46 is around 0.25
1N60P is around 0.33

is there any significant "auditory" compression differences between them? Is it higher forward voltage = more compression?

With Op-Amps, I have both a 4558 and a TL072. Is there any advantages with sticking to the 4558?

Thanks for your help!

I'm thinking of adding the 'Vibe Mod' to an old Galacticon Phase Shifter I have lying around. I'm planning on using a ON/ON 4PDT switch to do so. I've drawn a rough diagram to how I think the wiring should look like:



Can anyone verify that this is the correct wiring? This Post confirms that C2 and C3 are the right caps. Here is a blank drawing if the above wiring is incorrect. Cheers!

I turned my Tweaker on and to my surprise, the indicator diode doesn't turn on. At first I thought something serious was broken, but it sounds fine so I think it is just the diode.

However I am not really sure what to replace it with. I am only familiar with the typical Tayda red LEDs. I messaged Egnater support, but they have yet to respond. So I thought I'll get my answer here Any Tweaker owners have any recommendations? Does it seem like the typical blue LED?

I've attached a picture (obviously not mine, since mine is broken), but the light looks like this. I checked Tayda, but they appear to only have "ultra bright" blue LEDs and I am not even sure if those LEDs are reliable long term

The way by board is currently wired is that the LED Indicator is pulsating all the time. I have the LED wired directly from the board. Is it possible to wire it, so that when the effect is bypassed the Indicator LED is off?

I'm using a 1776 3PDT board which has space for a LED (currently blank). I was thinking of running some wires (ie + from PCB connected to + of 3PDT) from the 3PDT board to the LED Indicator on the PCB, but Im not sure it would work

So Im building the Electric Boogaloo and I got a solder bridge between pins 6 and 7 of IC1. I cleaned it offbut Im still get connectivity signals from my DMM. I checked the schematic maybe there is supposed to be connectivity?

Here's a link


If so what I am not getting is that I am not getting any connectivity between 1 and 2 on IC2 (I soldered the resistor in)

So I'm building a Rangemaster using this PCB:



Would it be possible to add a range mod like this:


How would I modify the above schematic?

I was boxing up a pedal (Engineer's Thumb) and I noticed that if I roll of my strat volume, I actually bypass the volume knob all together. It goes roughly like this

0-1= Quiet
1-1.5 = Loud Scratching
1.5-2 = Volume  knob Bypassed
2-2.5 = Loud Scratching
3 - 10 = Gradual Volume buildup

At first I thought it was the pedal (grounding issues maybe), but then when I bypassed it, I realized it was my strat I changed my strings yesterday too. Any one familiar with the issue? Time to replace the pot? Any reccomendations on a replacement (current one is 250k)?

There is also a burning smell coming out of  my strat Maybe a broken cap??

I think I just fried a 3PDT switch I have a few questions:

When soldering a 3PDT switch into a daughter board, how important is it to fill the daughter board holes completely? I've been trying to fill them completely and I realized that I've probably fried it that way. Do you use a different soldering tip?

To check if the switch is successfully soldered, I check for continuity at the PCB board input and output of the 3PDT daughter board. Is that a good method?

How important is it for the wire to go through the daughterboard holes? What I did is fill a hole with solder to create a pad and then soldered my wires on that pad. However, when checking the other side the solder did not completely fill the hole. Would that be an issue?

I've been trying to clean up the wiring from some of my earlier (working) builds, so I switched to a 3PDT board and completely redid the wiring. When I am bypassed I get signal, but whenever I turn the effect on it is dead. I'm pretty sure its the 3PDT

I've recently bought another wah pedal. It's all fine, however there is a big issue: the wah is not quiet. Even if I do not have my guitar plugged in and if I rock the pedal back and forth it still produces the wah sound. It is fine when playing with distortion but pretty terrible for clean playing. If I play quietly and I rock the pedal this wah sound is louder then my input signal. Note the input signal is still getting "wah -ified", but the pedal is producing other noise (which also sounds like a wah) that is louder then my playing. I opened it up and there are some mods done:

1) True Bypass, with the buffer removed
2) The vocal mod (33k resistor -> 68k)
3) Whipple Inductor installed
4) Mid-boost mod is done (1.5k -> 2.2k)
5) Gain mode done

Unfortunately I am not sure what each mod does individually. My gut feeling is that I should lower the gain. Does anybody have any advice?

I am building the Supreaux Deux (here is the schematic: https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B46z2J0FljLkeVpTMnVmeFJiU2s/edit?usp=sharing) and it calls for a tc7660scpa. I can't find those on eBay, so I was thinking of using an ICL7660SCPA. Would it work?

I've been looking into build portable guitar recorder. I found this project:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1325052/lilmikes-mic

which is perfect for my needs. However, the project specified requires the panasonic WM-61A, which is now discontinued.
Over at ebay these go for $10 for two (they used to go for $2  each). I am not real sure the mojo is worth it, so I went to the trusty tayda and found this:

http://www.taydaelectronics.com/condenser-microphone-2-2k-ohm-1-5v.html

However, I am not sure how well it compares to the panasonic. The numbers seem very similar ( datasheet: http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/WM-61A/P9925-ND/252843)

Can anyone who is more experienced with microphones/datasheet tell me if the tayda one is ok? Im not really looking for studio quality, just a quick recorder for ideas