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I read someone suggest to use a plastic LED bezel with the diode installed backwards so it points into the hollow tube. Fit the photoresistors in the other end then seal it in heat shrink. I haven't rolled any of my own yet so I don't know how well it works or if its unnecessary, but I thought I'd bring it up.

I'll give you a rain check on the discounted price if you want to order them together. Just leave a note along with the order and I'll refund the $4 when I ship everything!

Oh sweet, thank you. Normally I'd skip the finishing touches like nice knobs and labels, but this deserves all the little touches, especially the nameplate.

Thats fantastic to hear, I didn't think it would be so soon! I might end up ordering the board while on sale, but if its not much longer to wait and it would save on shipping, would I be able to delay the order until the enclosures arrive? I know I'll end up buying the pcb when you ship out the enclosures, and this way I can offset most of the cost of the nameplate.

Are there any notable differences between parallel circuits with dual volume controls vs a blend pot? I was thinking about running parallel gain stages based off the Empress Multidrive, but I'd start simple and experiment a lot. To start I was thinking about a clean boost in parallel with a bluesy drive to see how that would sound. I feel like a blend pot would sound a lot like a gain control, but would it be too different from the sound I could coax out of a pair of volume pots? I might forgo that for blending two different flavored drives. Sorry if its dealing the original question, but I felt like it was the appropriate place to ask.

I saw this post the other day, but I'm only posting now as it took a while to recover from the shock; that board is something else. Truly amazing work. I'll certainly pick one up later, when I can dedicate the time to such a daunting task. That means you can count me in for an enclosure as well. 
 
Also, congratulations, you've made a very short list of pedals I want that have side mounted jacks. So far none of them have been DIY since I've been able to squeeze the jacks up top in everything I build, but for this one I'll listen to the build doc's advise and follow your layout exactly.

Just finished my Giant Hogweed Fuzz.  ( no camera for pics )  Lots and lots of fuzzy sounds.
I did shield the input wire to the 3PDT as I was getting some noise.  Very nice PCB to work with.
Thanks again to David for the project.  Onto the Liquid Mercury and the Twin Peaks !

I've yet to start any of my drolo boards, but I'm going to begin a hogweed tomorrow. Did shielding the wire make much difference? I don't have any shielded cable and don't really want to wait for another order, especially because I can't do the other boards without buying a pic programmer to flash the LFOs.

I completely agree with getting a tripod. The gorillapod is nice, but I never liked its ball and socket leg design since it sags with heavier cameras (which bothers me since I often use old, heavy lenses). I recently picked up a pedro ultra pod, and its fantastic. Much better design (imho) for about the same price as a decent gorillapod. 
 
As for cameras, I can't help much because the newest camera I have is from 2010. Since its just for photos pretty much anything will do, even the little point and shoots with built in lenses are capable of taking great pictures. 5 megapixels is enough to make a decent size print, and plenty to upload online. More megapixels is essential only if you're cropping the image significantly afterwards and still trying to make large prints. If you don't need to shoot videos than you can pick whatever you want. Perhaps an optical viewfinder to see in bright sunlight, or a large zoom length cause they're nice. Nikon and Canon are the two ubiquitous names, but I personally shoot Sony. Pentax, Samsung, and others all have very nice models as well. No company has any huge advantage over any other, so don't buy into the tons of hype.

Check out the AMZ buffer-splitter, its the perfect circuit for this purposes.

That sounds and looks fantastic! I'm waiting on some parts before I can start my liquid mercury and twin peaks. I'm excited to add tempo sync's to them, but I plan on utilizing the chip's sync pin to do it instead. While its more limited in what it can control, it is a lot easier.

Welcome to the community! Think of this as legos for adults. Lots of small pieces, most of them hurt like fuck if you step on them (I'm looking at you, opamps), and if you follow the pictures/instructions you'll end up with something that resembles what it should. Its not too hard with PCBs, since all you need to do is put the right component in the right spot and don't make any solder bridges: as opposed to stripboard, which also requires you drilling out holes, adding jumpers, and bending the components to the right lengths/aligning them properly. As for the multimeter, you'll get comfortable with it soon, trust me. As strings said, its useful to check for continuity as you're building so you know if you made a mistake before the end, but thats way too much trouble for me. I typically complete a build, then probe every connection/strip to ensure no solder bridges. 
 
One last bit of advise: hot soldering irons look like cold soldering irons. But they sure as hell don't feel the same.

A little earlier then expected, I was expecting something on april 1st. The joke is still on me though, I had lost my saved shopping basket with their new server upgrade.

I use google sheets to make a tab of all the parts I want for an order. That helps keep me organized so I don't forget something or buy a part I already have. It also makes it a bit easier to refill your cart.

i dont understant  ....  i hold my soldering iron like this al the time and apart form one or two occasional burns its ok...

That just means you're doing it right. Like playing guitar builds up calluses, proper solder technique requires a few minor second degree burns to build up the toughness of the skin.

When I use that technique, I like to feed the solder in with my mouth. That keeps my left hand free for cleaning the iron tip. I roll it between my fingers until it looks clean. If that doesn't work, I just swish it around in some water.

I've always heard you're supposed to lick the tip to clean it properly.

Unfortunately theres no coupon at the moment. Check tayda's Facebook page, that is where most of us find the coupons we post here.

By any chance is this for the analog bit crusher? If it is, a 1 meg pot is fine, perhaps better as I never use more than a third of the rotation with the stock 2M. I know it says as much in the picture, but in my experience the extended range isn't worth the price of shipping the necessary pot.