Not quite a build report yet, but it's almost finished. Here's the layout! Pic to follow soon.
oooooooooh yeah!
Very cool layout.
Don't make open the can of Whipple ass ;)
Sounds really amazing. Like it's barfing wahs out. The filter control makes a huge difference.
oh please tell me this will be out in the next batch? I have a whipple and a vox shell RIGHT HERE!
;D
Forgive me what's a whipple in this context?
Edit YouTube tells me it's a type of inductor
It's a really sweet inductor...hand-made by a dude in NYC.
I'll have pins on it for red/yellow fasel inductors, too, but I can tell you that the Whipple is really something.
the3secondrule - it's pretty much a done deal. Just need to box it up and see how well it plays with some dirt. The etched and manufactured layouts are almost identical, so I do plan on releasing this with the next batch.
If I can get my new Rump Roast done, too I'll demo both. It also just needs a box.
I also used carbon comps and orange drops for the whole thing for the lol.
I used a whipple in my sugarfoot wah. it sounds really sweet. yuk yuk
ahhh yeah. I can't wait. SUPER stoked and excited.
very cool. first I've heard of the whipple inductor. Does anybody sell TDK-alikes?
AWESOME
i've been waiting since last janurary for this :D
can't wait
Yes!!! Bring it on!
wicked, awesome work Brian do you have a schematic handy please? :-*
I would love to breadboard this and see what the fuss is about cheers ;)
Quote from: jstbrowsin on January 02, 2012, 12:23:04 AM
wicked, awesome work Brian do you have a schematic handy please? :-*
I would love to breadboard this and see what the fuss is about cheers ;)
Sure. I'm not positive that the SAG control will be included. I realized after testing my build out that I was actually running it at 6.3v (it was hooked into an LM317) and it sounded awesome. I'm going to do so more tests tomorrow to decide if there is any benefit to lower voltages or not. Everything else is for sure.
nice, thanks Brian.
Just out of curiosity are the transistor choices because that's just what you had handy? I'm only asking because Q1 is a 2N3565, google says 2N3904 replacement but I'm not so sure cause there seems to be quite a bit of difference between the 2 specs. What spec (hfe, current gain, impedance etc) should I be looking at specifically to identify the ideal replacement please?
TIA
another great project!
Will this layout have pads for radial caps as well, or should I commence to orderin axials?
Quote from: jstbrowsin on January 02, 2012, 04:10:52 AM
nice, thanks Brian.
Just out of curiosity are the transistor choices because that's just what you had handy? I'm only asking because Q1 is a 2N3565, google says 2N3904 replacement but I'm not so sure cause there seems to be quite a bit of difference between the 2 specs. What spec (hfe, current gain, impedance etc) should I be looking at specifically to identify the ideal replacement please?
TIA
You could just get a 2N3565 from Smalbear...
Jacob
Quote from: jtn191 on December 31, 2011, 09:12:30 AM
very cool. first I've heard of the whipple inductor. Does anybody sell TDK-alikes?
I have modded a dozen or so Vox V847's with Whipple inductors and can say that they are really good. The guy that makes them is really great to deal with too. if you look at smallbear they have a variety of inductors too, but no TDK clones are out there to my knowledge. Sometimes you see a TDK in a fasel style package that has been pulled from an organ on ebay.
YES!!!! Cannot wait for this one...
the "stack of dimes" inductors that small bear sells sound fantastic as well.
Quote from: jkokura on January 02, 2012, 05:00:28 AM
Quote from: jstbrowsin on January 02, 2012, 04:10:52 AM
nice, thanks Brian.
Just out of curiosity are the transistor choices because that's just what you had handy? I'm only asking because Q1 is a 2N3565, google says 2N3904 replacement but I'm not so sure cause there seems to be quite a bit of difference between the 2 specs. What spec (hfe, current gain, impedance etc) should I be looking at specifically to identify the ideal replacement please?
TIA
You could just get a 2N3565 from Smalbear...
Jacob
I indicated 2n3565 simply because it is what I used and my preference for medium gain transistors (part aesthetics, too which you will see when I post my build pic). You can certainly use a 2n3904 in its place. While I haven't compared the datasheets, they both fall into the ~300 Hfe range.
Okay, so I'm ditching the sag control. No benefit, unless you really love lower output.
The only change will be the suggestion of a socket for the Q1 emitter resistor. Lowering it gives you more volume and gain, if you want it. I settled on 150R. You can go as far as grounding the pin, if you want.
So, just got grease up the treadle tomorrow and it should be good to go.
So does that output buffer mean it will play nice with my Fuzz Faces? So incredibly ready for this thing!
Quote from: JakeFuzz on January 03, 2012, 09:38:10 PM
So does that output buffer mean it will play nice with my Fuzz Faces? So incredibly ready for this thing!
Maybe not all fuzzes. Fortunately, it is easy to bypass and the doc will have instructions on how to do that with a switch.
After looking at some shell specs, I realized that the mounting hole arrangement was not too great on the previous layout. So, I went ahead and revised it to fit the three most common mounting areas in the Crybaby. It actually is a bit better layout in some ways.
Couple small changes to the schem and I went ahead and added the pads for a buffer bypass instead of some kind of kludge....just cleaner this way.
This is looking great Brian! I am not sure about the Halo inductor pinout from Small Bear but I think I might use that one. Will there be pads for it? If not, I shall rig something up, or just get the whipple.
Pin spacing on these inductors is a bit hard to come by. I did the Whipple directly from mine, and the Fasel is about 12.5mm. Unfortunately, Steve doesn't seem to provide pin spacing on the other inductors he has.
If anyone has specs on other inductors, please feel free to pass it along and I will do my best to include them.
Here is the final build. Note all my mounting hackery from poor planning (I have since fixed the mounting hole positions). Sound is great....very WAAAHHH. I'm going to tweak the emitter resistor of Q1 a little more and play with the peak trimmer, but everything works and sounds as it should. I opted not to have a bypass for the output buffer on this one. Most likely I will build a couple of these in the future.
Video demo coming ASAP.
(http://www.madbeanpedals.com/builds/gallery/Weener0112.jpg)
Can't wait! I have a crybaby shell that needs some guts. I also have a red fasel that needs a home. But should I just skip it and get a Whipple? Is it worth it?
I have a wah on the old BYOC board with both red fasel and whipple. The whipple is cleaner and less vocal to my ears but it works out well when dropping the value of the range cap or increasing gain. Both inductors in parallel are freakin sweet :o
I want to start source parts for this build. Will the values in the schematics be in the final BOM you think? All so where do you find 4uf elec caps?
mouser has axial 4uF caps (http://www.mouser.com/Passive-Components/Capacitors/Aluminum-Electrolytic-Capacitors/Aluminum-Electrolytic-Capacitors-Leaded/_/N-75hqwZscv7?P=1z0z819Z1z0wrjm&Ns=Pricing%7C0); they're a bit pricey tho. Would a 4u7 make a big difference?
I used one of the Sprague 4uFs from Mouser. My recommendation is get the 4uF if you can, but many modern wahs tend to use 4u7. One thing I could do is add some extra pads in parallel with that cap so you can combine two different values, says 2x 2u2 or 3u3 and 680n. Let me see what kind of room I have on the board.
Quote from: Sigesmundninja on January 04, 2012, 06:45:30 PM
I want to start source parts for this build. Will the values in the schematics be in the final BOM you think? All so where do you find 4uf elec caps?
The values are good as it stands (it's what I've used in mine), but I will be suggesting a number of possible mods, so I don't know if that will affect what parts you order.
Possible mods are: using a rotary switch instead of a pot for the Freq control and using 3-4 fixed caps, or using a 11 position detente pot, using a 1M blend pot in place of a switch for selecting between buffered and straight output. I will get the docs up well in advance this time, but not for at least another day or two. There are already a couple of mod suggestions on the schematic, too.
IOW, there will be the suggested BOM and then any number of mod to taste type additions. I want this to be somewhat open-ended like the Mudbunny.
Quote from: lloyd17 on January 04, 2012, 06:43:00 PM
I have a wah on the old BYOC board with both red fasel and whipple. The whipple is cleaner and less vocal to my ears but it works out well when dropping the value of the range cap or increasing gain. Both inductors in parallel are freakin sweet :o
I didn't know you could do both in parallel on the BYOC. That's definitely neat.
Thank you for the quick response, I'm gonna go ahead and wait for the documents then!
Brian, I'm curious (and forgive me if I've missed the answer) - Will there be extra pads for smaller caps? If not, what's the lead spacing?
All the film caps have additional pads underneath that are 5mm spaced. The electrolytics have additional pads at 2.5mm. So, you can use radial or axial caps in any combination you like.
Hey Brian, are either the Freq or Peak controls useful enough to install as external controls. I am drilling the enclosure and am wondering which ones I should put on the outside or keep as trimmers. Thanks.
Definitely the Freq should be external. The Peak maybe not so much. Although there are some variations to be had in setting the Q I think it's more set and forget.
For the Freq, you could use either a regular pot, or one of the 11 detente ones. I'll also have an alternative mod using different caps if you want to do set frequency filtering (like the Clyde wah). You could do that with either a 3-4 position rotary switch or with this one (if you want to make the little companion PCB):
http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=581
(http://www.smallbearelec.com/catalog/MiniRotary.jpg)
Austin (coldcraft) has a PCB you can buy for that switch.
Jacob
Quote from: madbean on January 09, 2012, 01:57:35 AM
Definitely the Freq should be external. The Peak maybe not so much. Although there are some variations to be had in setting the Q I think it's more set and forget.
Awesome, that's what I was thinking. That cap blender for the frequency cap is just too cool to leave inside. Ill have to get me one of those detent knobs so it stays in place! Thanks.
When this PCB rolls out I still have a heap of 2N2925 pulls, same as the Thomas Organ Co. house numbered 5117 transistors. I think smallbear got some awhile back as well. Look for my post in the buy n sell section if interested.
Any chance there will be documents up for this baby soon?
Hey folks,
What are people recommending/ordering for the wah pot?
I am ordering from Small Bear and am assuming I should get the 100k "Black Bear" pot under the wah parts section.
He offers a number of pots but I don't have a specific recommendation. I actually bought my pot along with the Whipple from the guy who makes them simply out of convenience. The standard ICAR is a good choice, but maybe there are some folks here that know a lot about wahs, pots and such. I'm certainly not an authority.
Any word on the docs bean? I have my finger on the buy button :) and a Pink wah shell and new pot waiting
I'm certainly no expert, but I have repaired a bunch of crybaby's, and found the black bear 100k to be a decent replacement, with a good sweep.
just my 2c
J
Quote from: sgmezei on January 23, 2012, 05:30:40 PM
Hey folks,
What are people recommending/ordering for the wah pot?
I am ordering from Small Bear and am assuming I should get the 100k "Black Bear" pot under the wah parts section.