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Bumble Bee V3 - Wiring Check

Started by zachlovescoffee, January 31, 2022, 08:29:34 PM

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zachlovescoffee

Hey folks,

I was wondering if I could bother you to take a quick look at the wiring of these pots and the wiring from the power board to the main board. Does it look accurate?

The build docs are out of date for the power board to the main board. So I went with the silk screens to match connections from board to board.

For the pots, I looked at the schematic to identify what I thought were the ground pads to wire to lug #1 of each pot.

Really appreciate your time :)

Bio77

#1
Hmm, I never noticed before, it seems the pads on the Bumblebee are mislabeled (-V, B, +V).  I looked over the three build reports here and the wires run straight back from the main circuit to the switching board, no cross overs.  I have a built up Bumblebee on my de-bug pile, when I saw this I thought maybe that was the issue.  Can someone with a functional unit confirm??

Your pots are backwards.  Also, you won't need R5 and R6 on the switching board for this build.  Those are only for the Choral Reef.

matmosphere

You have the red, black and yellow hooked up incorrectly.

On the main board

- put the black where the yellow currently is
- red to where the black currently is
- yellow to where the red currently is

I built it with the version two switching board, but just looked over the docs and I'm pretty sure that will fix your problem.

I remember thinking the labels on the VFE board were a little confusing when I made mine.

benny_profane

I'm not sure what's going on with the silkscreen on the Bumblebee, but there should not be crossover. For the power connections, the pads should be (left to right): GND, V-, V+. This is how it's depicted in the Bumblebee build doc. Note that the order of the pads are the same on both the V2 and V3 VFE Switching Boards, so the wiring diagram in the build doc is applicable to the V3 board.

zachlovescoffee

Took some close up shots of the silk screen. I think I'm just a dumb ass and overthought it. It literally should just be 1:1 jumped across the board.

Point taken on the pots. So they are backwards. So just flip the pots around?

Bio77

Quote from: zachlovescoffee on February 01, 2022, 08:14:12 PM
Took some close up shots of the silk screen. I think I'm just a dumb ass and overthought it. It literally should just be 1:1 jumped across the board.

Point taken on the pots. So they are backwards. So just flip the pots around?

Actually, you were a lot more careful than most of us that just assumed straight back was the right way.  I never even looked at the silk screen  ;D

Yep, take a look at pot leg numbering (1,2, and 3).  That should match with the 9mm pot mounted as intended on the other side of the board.  Also, not sure what enclosure you are planning but those bigger pots are going to be a tough squeeze.  I'd really recommend sticking to the recommended parts for these VFE builds.  They are tough even with the suggested parts.   

zachlovescoffee

#6
I'm using a Gorva C65, which is close to a 125B. So I think I have plenty of room. The only thing that vexes me is that I don't have a good drilling template for the board. Anyone have something in illustrator or an SVG export of the board with pilot drills for the pots?

matmosphere

Pretty sure the drill template is either in the doc for the switching board or the VFE build guide document.

Did you get it working?

jimilee

Quote from: matmosphere on February 06, 2022, 06:19:37 PM
Pretty sure the drill template is either in the doc for the switching board or the VFE build guide document.

Did you get it working?

Yessir, that's exactly where it is, the switchboard doc.
Pedal building is like the opposite of sex.  All the fun stuff happens before you get in the box.