News:

Forum may be experiencing issues.

Main Menu

Coda Effects Black Hole Build Issue

Started by jazzster, May 06, 2021, 10:45:17 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

jazzster

1) Project: Black Hole from Coda Effects
2) Boost not working - see below for details.
3) Tried poking around with an audio probe but not really sure what I'm looking for or what I'm doing haha
4) Added footswitch and LED for boost according to Benoit from Coda Effects, boost 100k trimpot replaced with 100kA external pot (pot with red, white, and grey wires in pictures)

Hello. I am very new to the whole forum thing. I am currently working on a Black Hole from Coda Effects build and I am having an issue.

The main part of the pedal works perfectly but the issue I'm having is that the boost section is not working. I have it wired to a 3PDT footswitch as well as an LED. I also turned the 100k boost trimpot into an external pot with a knob. When I hit the footswitch for boost, the LED turns on but all sound cuts out. The other weird thing is that as I turn up the 100k pot the LED will dim. Pictures included as well as full build doc, as well as additional boost section wiring diagram which was given to me by the excellent Benoit from Coda.

If you have any ideas on what may be wrong I would really appreciate it. Cheers.

jazzster


matmosphere

It's hard to see the switch connections with the board in the way, but I'm guessing that is where the problem is. Do you have the jumper between the middle and right lug on the bottom row of the switch on the left? I can see solder on the lugs but I don't see anything making the connection.

jazzster

Hi Matmosphere. Thanks for the reply. Here is a better shot of the switch wiring. The main pedal and switch is working (left). The boost section switch is on the right. None of the bottom row lugs are connected on that switch. I wired it up using the wiring diagram in the previous post.

matmosphere

Okay I see it now. The issue is that all the connections on that switch need to be rotated 90 degrees. Right now they are each going across a row, but the switching happens by column.

I checked the build doc on the coda website just to verify. He shows it with a DPDT without an led, but if you look carefully the lugs are rotated so they are vertical.

It's a bummer because you will have to desolder everything from the switch and resolder everything again. Just make sure to take your time when you desolder the wires. The epoxy on those switches can't take a ton of heat.

jazzster

Thanks for looking at his for me. It wouldn't be the most fun thing in the world to rotate everything but if that's what has to be done, so be it. I currently have it wired according to this diagram that Benoit gave me. Is his diagram incorrect?

jazzster

Here is a quick diagram that I made to show the switch rotated 90

jazzster


matmosphere


jazzster

I sat down and had a good look at it and I was able to wrap my head around what's going on. Hopefully I can get everything re-soldered without wasting an expensive switch. Thank you so much for the help. I really appreciate it. I hope that I can get to the point where I can pay it forward and help out someone else. I will work on the pedal this weekend and I will let you know if that solves all of the problems.

matmosphere

Quote from: jazzster on May 07, 2021, 06:12:17 AM
I sat down and had a good look at it and I was able to wrap my head around what's going on. Hopefully I can get everything re-soldered without wasting an expensive switch. Thank you so much for the help. I really appreciate it. I hope that I can get to the point where I can pay it forward and help out someone else. I will work on the pedal this weekend and I will let you know if that solves all of the problems.

No problem. I'm certainly one of the less knowledgeable guys on here but I help when I can.

Do you have a solder sucker? It not it might be easiest to heat the solder quickly and pull the wire out then reheat and shove a toothpick through the lug to keep the solder out of the hole so you can put the new wire through. Just make sure to work slowly and let the switch cool for 30-60 seconds between heating it. Stuff down in there will hold heat, and when you do to much heating over a few pigs to quickly things go wrong.

I have ruined my fair share of those switches, just part of the cost of learning.

jazzster

SOLVED. I was able to rewire my boost switch without any damage and everything is working perfectly now. Thanks again to Matmosphere for the help. I really appreciate it. Just need to get my graphics onto the pedal now. I will post some pics in the Build Report (if that is the right place (new to the forum)) section once I'm finished.