As the subject hints, I would like to try building on veroboard. What I'm asking for from you guys are a few things:
1. What kind of tools do you recommend for cutting tracks?
2. What are some good, simple layouts? (Nothing like a booster or plain Fuzz Face if possible)
3. Are there any unspoken secrets when soldering on vero?
Note: I realize this is a pretty stupid/newbie topic to make, but this is the best place to come to for advice on building pedals in my experience. While I will definitely continue using Madbean's boards, for those he doesn't make I'd like to try vero rather than etch a pcb.
Get a track cutter thingy. They're like a drill bit with a handle on it. It will save you so much time and effort it's untrue. Personally I also mark out all the cuts on the top of the vero in marker pen. This just makes knowing where you are a bit easier.
Otherwise it's just like soldering anything else.
Here's a couple of easy ones for you to get on with:
SHO. Everyone should have one of these. Brilliant little circuit to tack on to the end of other effects to boost/thicken them. Especially fuzzes.
(http://juansolo.demon.co.uk/stompage/schematics/Zvex/DHOv3.jpg)
There's the Klon Buffer (http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=1507.0)
Then when you feel up for it, the bundle of insanity that is the Uglyface (http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=1694.0)
In case you need a tip on cutting the boards: people have different ways of cutting the vero board but I always just snap mine apart. What seems to work best is to place 4 straight edges, a ruler or something like that, on top & bottom and either side of the row of perforations where you are making your cut. If possible, hold the straightedges in place with a pair of pliers in each hand. Then with even pressure quickly snap the board apart. The key is to support the board so it doesn't have a place to fracture other than the row of perforations. Then I take a piece of sandpaper and smooth off any sharp edges.
There a ton of good vero layouts in here, most of them pretty simple and verified:
http://aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/DRAGONFLY-LAYOUTS_0/
I use the actual enclosure for breaking vero.
Turn it upside and remove the bottom.
Place your vero over the edge in line with where you want it to break
Place the bottom back on and hold it together or even screw it back on
Snap the vero - Nice and clean.
^^ great tip!!
I love vero! It was a little scary at first but after my first build I just couldn't stop. I agree the track cutting cool makes it soo easy. You can get a combo of the tool and a few strips of board from tippikat on ebay. I find vero pretty easy to snap and haven't had any problems with it or had to throw any unusable away. I always keep the little pieces and use them for something else, like LED's.
I started on aron's gallery which someone linked above. If you want a great first project I'd recommend the colorsound one knob overdrive. It's really a fuzz and it rips hard, plus there is step by step instructions! From there let your imagination/addiction fuel you!!
http://aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/DRAGONFLY-LAYOUTS_0/TUTORIALS/album21/
While all the layouts this guy has posted are of great classic effects or nice sounding circuits, some of them need a little adjusting. I usually build them and then find how people modded them and compare them to the schems to make sure they are correct. On the Orange Sunshine Fuzz for example, there was a trace cut missing which I realized after comparing the layout to the schem. If you can dig vero, between that gallery posted and FSB you'll be able to keep busy for a long time.
Some of the best veros are here
http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/
Rules for vero
- get a cutting tool
- make sure traces are completely cut
- watch for solder bridges
Thats about it.
Ive never had a problem that wasnt a short. So just make sure to triple check.
A continuity checker on a DMM is useful to ensure track cuts.
Have fun
I use a countersink for cutting traces, but I use a handheld screwdriver instead of a drill. To mount it to the enclosure, I use a nut and bolt affixed with jb weld. Holds really well. Ive also used those white sticky backed standoffs. I score it with a box cutter and snap it off to size. I use the vero from tayda. Its pretty good stuff.
Yes IvIark does great layouts!
And how could I forget this wonderful site....
http://www.sabrodesign.com/
He just uploaded so many new layouts, plus the amazing amount on there already and even takes requests!!!
Wow. Haven't been there for a while. Some cool new stuff.
Josh
For cutting board, I tape off with blue painters tape and use the tape as aguide to cut with a mini hacksaw. Then smooth the edges with 320g paper
A 5mm drillbit works perfectly for cutting tracks. No need for special tools.
As for unspoken secrets? Don't drink coffee before soldering vero ;D
I like to run an exacto blade down each lengthwise gap (between pads) after all the soldering is done--just to be certain no solder jumped the shark!
I just ordered a few veroboards from Tayda so I can start the vero adventure too. Anyone know of any other good sites for layouts? I'd love it if I could find a Musket Fuzz, Paisley Drive, or (dare I say it...) a Timmy.
Quote from: thetrend77 on October 04, 2011, 09:18:09 PM
I just ordered a few veroboards from Tayda so I can start the vero adventure too. Anyone know of any other good sites for layouts? I'd love it if I could find a Musket Fuzz, Paisley Drive, or (dare I say it...) a Timmy.
I always start with google, usually something will come up from FSB, DIYSB or various other places. I collect the biggest portion of mine from the DIYSB gallery (going through every member when bored) and FSB.
I still have to post my layout of Dragonfly's Seven Knob fuzz. I verified it awhile ago, just need to box it. :)
Quote from: maysink on October 02, 2011, 01:59:57 PM
I like to run an exacto blade down each lengthwise gap (between pads) after all the soldering is done--just to be certain no solder jumped the shark!
I do that as well, very simple and could potentially be a nice time saver for a few seconds work.
To cut boards I usually just stanley blade them a few times then snap them, not the cleanest way but easy enough.
I did some layouts for onboard pot very layouts like a Proco Rat, Fuzz Face, Tone Bender MkII, Big Muff and a few others that I could post if you want to use onboard pots.
I'd love to see a schem of the Paisley. Also, the Timmy is worth hearing. I might have a built Timmy clone around if someone might be interested...
Jacob
Quote from: bigmufffuzzwizz on September 27, 2011, 05:45:56 PM
Yes IvIark does great layouts!
And how could I forget this wonderful site....
http://www.sabrodesign.com/
He just uploaded so many new layouts, plus the amazing amount on there already and even takes requests!!!
Woah never come across this before! Awesome! Im pretty sure i've got some vero lying around.. might have to get back into it.
I hope I'm not stealing this thread, but I had a question about this layout: http://www.sabrotone.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/CrankedAC.gif
I don't quite understand how to wire the pots. For example, on the gain pot, obviously lugs 2 and 3 are soldered to 1d and 1c, but it says lug 1 goes to ground. Do I wire this to the ground pad on the board (1b)? If so, do I also wire volume lug 1 to that same spot? Or is there some other place I'm supposed to wire those lugs that should be wired to ground? Can I just solder the lug to the back of the pot (like a Les Paul is wired, for example)?
Also, it says Tone 2 and 3 are wired to the same spot (1k). Can I just wire a jumper from 2 to 3 and just have one wire going to the pad on the board?
Anyway, I'm just trying to learn all I can about this before I tackle it lol. Thanks guys!
EDIT: OH, and if it says a pot's lug goes to Output, does that mean it goes to the tip of the output jack or the output lug on the footswitch?
I think these are valid questions Jacob.
All the grounds are connected so you can wire them all together via the in/out jack lugs, a ground strip (or multiple) on the vero board or anything else connected to ground. You probably could solder to the back of the pot, never tried that.
If 2 lugs are connected via the same wire to the board I just connect them on the pot like you described.
It helps to find the schem as well and compare to that :)
Ah ok thanks, that helps a lot! What about the last question I posted in my edit about the lug going to output?
Really depends on what you wanna use the pedal for. If you want to wire it with bypass it would be cosidered the fx out and goes to the footswitch. For some pedals you may always want it on and in that case it would go straight to the out jack lug.
Gotcha, that's what I was thinking but I just wanted to make sure. Thanks!!
This weekend it looks like I am going to be pretty busy with some vero builds. I ordered the stripboard cutting thing from eBay, tippikat was the seller, and it works pretty well. I used the recommendation about using an enclosure to snap the board, and it worked very well.
My first build is going to be a Devi Ever Soda Meiser. Low parts count, crazy fuzz, and simple layout, all the key components to a new build.
Quote from: greyscales on October 07, 2011, 05:03:35 PMI used the recommendation about using an enclosure to snap the board, and it worked very well.
;) ;D
Quote from: greyscales on October 07, 2011, 05:03:35 PM
My first build is going to be a Devi Ever Soda Meiser. Low parts count, crazy fuzz, and simple layout, all the key components to a new build.
There's is a ton of vero layotus for her fuzzes, some old and some current ones on her forum. There's a nice DIY building section over there. Haven't been there in awhile
Anyone know of any layouts for the Godzilla?
thought I'd pop in and mention the sea blue eq as a great vero project. Super easy to build and when you're done you have a really nice clean booster.