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So this is a sister thread to the one I started about the wah and I thought I'd simplify it a bit. If I can figure out the poles on the Carling DPDT I can convert over to the 3PDT. I've Googled until my heart is not content. I found the data sheet but I can't locate what each pole might represent in the below pic.

Can someone help me with which pole represents what for wiring with respect to swapping this out for a 3PDT? The first pic is the current DPDT in the wah. The second pic is what a site says to convert over for a PS. In that second pic with 6 poles what does he one wire to?



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The only reason I started building amps was because I chopped up a 77 Marshall JMP 50 Master Volume.  I know, it would be worth a fortune and although it sounds better with it's Dan Torres mods it's basically worthless.  Still, this is one kickin 50 with tube fx loop, switchable master volumes, and extra gain stage.

Pedals are not so much.  I would ALWAYS recommend that a pedal of this vintage not be modded, but truth be told he's not going to retire on it so if he's good with violating it.  Have at it.

Cool gig, and if he's comfortable working with you it would be cool to feed the band some pedals too.  I got an overdrive, when I still had Laffing Dog Musical Instruments, over to Mark Knopfler and Charlie Sexton when Knopfler was supporting Bob Dylan thru their light guy.

I'm guessing he is not a purist as such but I would have to have a deeper convo. I'm just getting to know him. Like I said I won't drill holes but first I want to see if I can get it working as he wants and then I will talk to him. His call at the end of the day.

Any thoughts on the wiring Gordo?

Now that I've looked over the pictures a bit more, I noticed the two carbon comp 470K resistors have been swapped out for carbon film, so I wouldn't worry too much about modding the pcb in any way, it's already been worked on.
As for the LED, where are you planning to put one? LED's on wahs are really only effective if you can somehow place it on top of the foot control, like the old PAX "Pedal Number One". Otherwise it just gets lost at most viewing angles. I guess something in the heel of the case would be a fairly visible option as well, but would only look cool if it was an amp jewel like on the old 70's Morley wahs.

Lars, I was going to put it at the heel. I did a couple others like that. Yeah, I wish I had some of my old jewel lights but I used them up on pedals!

Ok, so I sure could use a second opinion and insight on this. First. I went to Stinkfoot and sure enough found my exact PCB which was not on his site but he links you to another site for pre 1990 Wahs. On the PCB drawing below I seem to have a discrepancy on the terminals. I've gone over this in my head multiple times but again it's not my Wah so I'm trying to get this right out of the gate vs trial and error.

So if we start at the top of the Wah/PCB you have 6 terminals on the right descending.
1- PCB output?
2- PCB input?
3- PCB ground?
4?
5- Ground second one?
6- 9V

So if you will notice I have the battery hooked up to the last 2 terminals in the pics above. The pedal works like this so I'm thinking the 9v is the last one. There is also a red wire going to the input jack so I'm thinking good that's it. But if you look at the wiring diagram below off the website it has the opposite it appears with the ground as terminal 6 and the 9v as terminal 5. What gives?

I'm adding an LED thus the 3PDT. Also a pic below shows how I'm wiring the stomp switch.

Any thoughts on how to wire this one up?

Do not mod the case or anything! Simply get a 9V battery clip and a female DC barrel plug to make a "dongle" similar to this:
https://www.taydaelectronics.com/9v-9-volt-battery-clip-connector-with-barrel-jack-plug.html
You can easy create a space for the thin wires to fit through by putting a spacer washer in between the bottom plate screw and the case. This mod will work to be able to plug into a modern power supply, but you will not be altering the originality of the pedal in any way.

*edit* There is one reversible mod I would highly recommend:  carefully desolder one leg of that 33K resistor at the top of the PCB to take it out of the circuit. Guaranteed the wah will sound better without it. The original Thomas organ patent didn't have it. I know it's the "Q" resistor, but in my experience I've found it to be the "poo" resistor; some wahs even put a potentiometer there, so you can adjust the levels of poo! Leave it out.

Lars, great advice on the 33k. I would have to ask him about that one but it is easy enough. I could socket it to in case he didn't like it down the road.

As far as altering the case I plan to first not drill holes, wire up the PS and LED hanging loose and then get with him and ask him one more time if he is sure. He never plans to sell it. He has had it a long time and he is young. At the end of the day I'll go with what he wants to do.

But I hear what you mean and say about not doing irreversible damage to a vintage pedal.

I'm only seeing two transistors there, so I don't think there's a buffer to remove. For the TB mod, take a look at Stinkfoot's site. He tells how to do it on all the various Dunlop versions, so the oldest wired one would probably be translatable to this Thomas Organ one.

I never know that about the Q resistor. I upped it to 47k on the old Dunlop I have and it was an improvement, but I may try taking it out to see what happens.

Thanks Bret. I found the exact board off a link he supplied that had good instructions.

I'm not messing with the PCB itself as it's not mine. I just hope I can get it working with a PS and an LED without killing the pedal!

So, my new neighbor who moved in next door in a rental happens to be the guitar tech for Derek Trucks and Susan Tedeschi. No really he is. He would like a 9v PS with the battery option and an LED, basically like we build them now put into an old wah. Ok, if new easy peasy. However, this is not MY old wah so I'm not jumping in guns a blazin'. He thinks it's vintage and while it's old I have no idea if it has mojo but to him it does. So with that in mind.....

I've poked around on the webz and one thing that pops up is that once modified for the PS it becomes noisy. Some other folks said theirs was not. Who knows with this one.

Question 1: Can I dive in and wire for TB like all the others, stereo jack for in the input of course for battery use, LED, etc... or is there something about how these things were wired that would not allow for what appears to be a straightforward fix?

Question 2: If I do wire for TB do I have to cut the buffer trace/get rid of the buffer in some way? I read this over at Stinkfoot.

I don't intend to mess with the PCB per se if I can help it. I'll just strip the existing old wire and lengthen with the new wire not disturbing the PCB at all.

I'm wide open to some thoughts and potential pitfalls to bringing this puppy up to modern times.

Nice work!

Is that like a 10mm LED poking out there?    Looked like a really smooth bezel type. Also dig the vinyl-sleved levers on the toggles. Also, what enclosure houses the redshift? looks a bit longer than the XX.

Thank you sir. Yeah, I started using the 10mm's years ago. I was using amp jewel lights but I thing that might be gilding the lily a bit    I just do it cuz I can and I don't gig so I don't have to worry about being blinded on a gig. Yeah, the little switch condoms give it some grip when flipping.

Well as with most things I like Double D's    It's a 1590DD.  Again, without gigging pedal board space is a non decision for me.

So I bought a bunch of boards a few years back and didn't realize I bought two very similar boards. Have not had time to A/B per se for fun.



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Hey Brian, is the Collosalus coming back?

Power supply. Phasers are sensitive to line noise. I was pulling out my hair and I must have disassembled a phaser a dozen times before I figured that out.


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Jimilee, you are the man. That's all it was. Many thanks JL.

Bean, to your point, no there is no whine in the circuit! 

Power supply. Phasers are sensitive to line noise. I was pulling out my hair and I must have disassembled a phaser a dozen times before I figured that out.


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Ok, I'll play around with that a bit. I did have a regulated wall wart but I'll pop into my good PS on my board.

Ok, so oddly enough I had bought the Redshift from Aion and just tested it. I get the exact same whine with the same symptoms of combo of sounds altering the pitch and speed of the whine.

What is the common denominator ( yeah I know besides my soldering iron  )? The LM13700. Sooooo, could I have gotten a lousy batch? Might it exhibit the dreaded whine? I would not ever recall where I go those. Sure it could have been Tayda but I can't say. 

I have no idea what projects I have done in the past that might have this chip. I will need to do a little recon on some other phasers that I have that work to see if I can swap some out.

Hey Brian thanks for chiming in.

Yes, even with the FB all the way down. The pitch barely changes with the rate but it does.

No matter where I toggle and what switch I hit the whine is there. It alters a bit or a lot depending on what combo of sounds I land on. Maybe a bad IC issue? I haven't yet taken voltages if that would matter.

So everything seems to work great but for the classic high pitch wine. It's on all settings. It's so loud it makes it unusable.

Anyone have any suggestions on what tweaks I can make?