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Finished this one also, I still need to test it out...
I managed to put the 4 LEDs at the same spacing as the rotary switch positions. I did have to turn the middle pot around 180 degrees so the 4 LEDs could fit. The 9mm pot was because when I ordered them I was stuck on stupid and didn't order the correct size to fit on the PCB.
I originally had the super mojo 308 cans installed but thought the tab on the cans designated pin 1... Wrong! I had to cut them out and then order some pedestrian dip-8 versions to use. I bet it'll sound as good though! Lol!

Hi everyone,
Here's my IMP build, this one was tough to squeeze into the case. I added the buffered output like on the original instead of true bypass. That's what all the extra resistors are for on top of the foot switch. I also made the two 1uf caps mylar instead of electrolytic; mylars sound so much better.

Hello,
I see this build asks for a LT1054 instead of the 2 cheaper versions listed above. Any reason for this? I'm sure this thing takes less than 5ma. I thought the limiting factor on these ICs is input voltage but I plan on using 9V in.  Also, I'd be connecting pin 1 to pin 8 on the charge pump.
Thanks,
Daniel

Hi everyone!
What's the internal trimpot for? Can anyone tell me how to adjust it properly? I'm finishing this build.
Thanks in advance.
Daniel

Hi, I have a couple of these Mini Mu PCBs but no documentation. Is there a schematic / build of materials list available? Several of the parts are not listed on the PCB.
Thanks in advance...
Daniel

Ok, so I built the Man-o-War dx and calibrated it. Pretty straight forward. I have built the Total Recall and AQDX delays in the  past, so this one came together pretty fast.
Here are some observations, please chime in if I'm way off:
When "tails" is the only thing going to the output, the indicator is off. I flipped it around, so indicator is on with tails only, and off when delay is going through. I don't know if I explained that well. Lol!
LVL trimpot has to be turned up, like a good 2/3 of the way up to get around unity gain. I also have T1 turned most of the way up so the repeats go on for a LONG time. I don't know if it's infinite repeats, but there are a lot of them! Nice thing about them is that the repeats remain fairly clean... Much cleaner than the repeats on the ABDX.
The MoW can go into oscillation but both T1 and LVL have to be turned all the way up.

I did use a 78L12 to give the MoW 12 volts regulated. All Electronics has a 12.5 volt DC adaptor for $3.50 which actually puts out 14.5 volts, so it's great with this setup.
I didn't have 1/8 watt resistors so I just used 1/4 watters and did the Japanese transistor radio trick to get them to fit. Lol!
I'm really thinking about using one MN3101 clock and just solder a wire from pin 2 to pin 2 and pin 6 to pin 6 of the BBD chips. Why, you may ask???  Because I'm cheap and I can use the second clock for something else!
Anyway, this is a great delay, the repeats are super clean but a very different delay than the ABDX. I like them both!

Hi again,
I'm late to the party (again!) and was wondering if anyone has any Yodeler boards available for sale? It would be much appreciated...
Thanks
Daniel

Hi everyone. I'm new to the forum here; it's a great source of information!
My question is can I power my Choral Reef with 15 volts? The zener on the switching board is 16 volts, so I am assuming it will work with a 15 volt supply? I find that these BBD projects work much better at 12-15 volts vs. 9 volts.
Thanks.