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I'm building the Big Muff Pharo from this schematic which shows .047uf coupling caps. I realized after I built it that to be more like the blackout effectors pharoah I need to change them to .47uf caps.  I ordered some from mouser (Epcos box film) but the shipping was delayed.  I wanted to ask the group what they thought about using .47uf multilayer ceramics (NTE) from my local electronics store? Should I wait for the mouser order or just pop these in?


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UPDATE: I was able to fix it. Basically the Madbean standard wiring diagram doesn't work with this board. For some reason it shorts the 9v to ground. I rewired following rockhorst's photo and it works great. Seems like others were having some problems too, this is most likely the fix, use the wiring diagram pictured from rockhorst:


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Did this topic ever get resolved? I built my nucleon super fuzz with a optical bypass switch, but all the lows were highpassed out, so I finally got around to putting in a regular switch and am having the same problem. I diagnosed the 9v pad shorting to ground before even knowing about this thread. I'm having the same problem and am wondering what was done to fix it or if it is fixable?


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Thx for your help! Got it working and it sounds awesome. Also it works without the spdt switch.


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I'll try to wire in the leads to the send and return now. Is connecting the (-) of the 9v battery to the sleeves of both jacks and the (-) of the 9v pad on the board enough to ground it?


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Thanks for the input! I tried attaching to the send and return but had the same results. For some reason I think the stomp switched needs to be wired in to test it. Maybe Madbean will chime in.


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I built the dirtbaby today and wanted to test it before I boxed it up.  I tried to use chromesphere's diagram by soldering some leads and using alligator clips. I soldered a lead to the tip input, tip output, and 9v + and 9v -. I clipped it all up based on the diagram below, but it just made a buzzing sound.

Do I need to solder in the 3pdt switch in order to test the dirtbaby? Also I haven't added the spdt switch yet because I ordered solder lug by accident. I thought it might work without it?


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Built the Vapor Ray that Rullywow recently showed us on this forum. I built it at the same time I built the Madbean Moodring, and these two pedals go great together.


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Here is my Madbean Moodring. Really cool reverb, definitely diggin it!




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I'm about to build the moodring and have a question about the two 3mm red LEDs.  I have clear red 3mm LEDs but not 3mm red diffused. Does that matter?

Thanks!

Dan


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Update: I just put 3mm red LEDs in with 1n34a's. The overdrive is much more usable than a klon in my opinion. It will be tough now to leave as a clean boost.


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Finished the Kingslayer 2. I really like it as a clean boost! I learned a couple things during this build, but the main thing was I should probably take my time when punching for my holes. The drilling job I did is definitely a bit off with the switches and led, but oh well.

I can't believe how loud the kingslayer is!!! Why does it need to be that loud? It's soooooo loud haha. I think unity for me is with the volume at 9 o'clock with minimal gain. If I crank the gain I have to turn the volume to just a speck above off.

I also have the swoosh hiss whistling thing when the gain is all the way off. I don't mind it because I like having the gain up just a bit, which gets rid of it.  I find as you raise the gain past 9 o'clock the sound gets a bit honky and lots of high end loss. I think that's just the nature of the circuit. I checked to see if my klon clones do the same thing and they seem to.

To fix the whistling I'm going to order the 074 chip. I read through the forums and that seemed to help.

The buffer is great on this pedal! Is the buffer a bit different than the klon buffer, sounds better for some reason, better highs is what I'm hearing, but maybe it's the exact same haha.



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Built my second Rullywow QoB pedal for a second rig. I really like the 18v/9v jumper option.

Really clean work, Dan!  Very neat and tidy, bet it sound great too. 

Question: just curious what diode setup you ended up going with?

Very cool indeed. Are those trim pots on your switch boards to adjust the brightness of the LED's?

Yes, on the rullywow 3PDT boards you can use a trimmer for LED brightness or a standard 1/4w resistor.  The IN/GND/9V/OUT PCB connections also match all rullywow projects (like the QoB) for extra neatness when wiring.

Hey Ben, I am going to have it all 1s1588's with different dip switch settings for the two channels. I like the way these diodes sound the best so I'm just going to load it up.


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looks awesome   very clean build. and the enclosure color is nice, i guess its from mammoth?
are you labelling it later, or do you leave it that way?

im gonna build this thing soon and i think im using 1S1588 and 1n914 as clipping diodes

I actually got this from pedal parts plus, I think it was called blue star sparkle. I am not going to label it. I actually don't really know how and never have even though I've built about 30 pedals. I just keep them and try and remember what they all do haha. I haven't tried the 1n914's but so far I like 1s1588's the best


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Does this make sense? I've been getting led switch pops when using blue and green LEDs, but when I switch them out for 5mm red diffused LEDs it goes away? I know different colors have different forward voltages, perhaps that's why. Has this happened to anyone else?

Thanks,

Dan


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