Hi all
Long time no post.
Im considering attempting to put together a partscaster.
without writing an essay, its been an ambition of mine to have a relic guitar for a long time. I wanted a Danocaster but they are prohibitively expensive, and even now they started production again, its impossible to custom order and they sell them via instagram at 4am to the faster trigger finger...
That or a custom shop Fender, I suppose, and again they are even more expensive.
I figure a more affordable and perhaps fun way into the game would be to source some parts and "screw it together".
I appreciate there is more to it than simply screwing parts together.
Having said that, does anyone have any experience with MJT bodies, specifically a strat style (VTS)?
Suggestions on more economical ways, particularly in the UK, to get a aged finish on a neck would be welcome too.
Thanks!
I have an MJT body but it isn't reliced. The basic quality is good, but their finish is on the thicker side with a particularly thick white fullerpast-style undercoat. I think they make it so the undercoat and colourcoat don't adhere particularly well on purpose to make it easier to relic after it cures. But it's a different than the Fender Road Worn type finish (if that's important to you).
I've done a couple partscasters and they've turned out, but you have to understand you're taking a risk. Sometimes the particular components just aren't going to come together in a good way and you're going to end up with a dud. I think of it like how you can play multiple examples of the same model of a guitar in a shop and one will sound great and another will sound terrible. There's just no getting around that risk. At the same time, since you're in control you can always swap parts out to bring it more in line with what you want. It's just that it takes time and gets really expensive. IME you don't save money with a partscaster. I guess that's the one thing I wish somebody would have
emphasized to me. Then again, you're doing the relic thing, so maybe it is a money-saver if you're comparing it to a Fender CS.
I think your biggest obstacle is getting your neck finished in a relic-appropriate way. You can't Tru-Oil yourself to that kind of result. Relic style necks pretty much have to be finished with lacquer. But you can have a neck from Musikraft (or Warmoth, I think) drop-shipped to MJT and they will finish the neck along with the body. I know that MJT
recently bought USAGC as well, so eventually they will be building necks themselves. I can't speak to the quality of their relic work because I've never done the relic thing, but there are a lot of pictures on their website which I would hope are basically representative. Your comment suggests a certain amount of skepticism, though, and that's probably wise. I'd imagine any company that's expanded as much as MJT has in the last few years has its share of QC problems. I look at their bodies on eBay from time to time and it seems like there's a lot of variability there (some look decent some look awful)...and that kind of scares me.
The only other thought I have is I'd want to be damn sure I knew my own expectations. Relicing is so subjective. One man's great is another man's disaster. It would be so easy to be disappointed. I think that's the reason Danocaster and the CS makes their money: it's practically the only way you can buy a custom relic guitar and know you're going to get what you want.
Sorry for writing a book. Hope you get the guitar you're jonesing for and you post a pic or two when you do.
hey
appreciate the book
I actually quite like the fender roadworn vibe, but I beleive its not exactly correct looks-wise as its a matt finish, and nitro lacquer on real old guitars isnt matt, although it can dull over time.
It all comes down to whether I can get the body for a reasonable price. Thanks for the notes on their process. Im sure as with everything there are duds.
I remember from the EVH signature guitars when they first launched I think Peavey made them, and the necks had an oil finish that got grubby really fast. The feel was nice but some people didnt like their "new" guitar to look so worn very rapidly, hence me thinking oil might be an option.
For the most part it will be for the amusement of doing the project, rather than hoping to have a guitar that rivals a $4k CS/Dano really.
My main guitar for the past 8 years has been an mjt double bound tele. I don't foresee myself ever parting with it.
I bought mine from there eBay store as a body, neck, and hardware combo. It was one of there no reserve bids so I saw what the body looked like before buying it. The quality is good, though I have replaced most of the pieces on it. But that wasn't due to quality as much as preference. I switched out the neck, which was originally an all parts neck, for a warmoth one. I found the original was to small for my liking in neck contour and nut width. And I switched out the bridge and saddles for a compensated one. So now I have a neck I prefer and a guitar that intonates better. But since your not looking at a tele the intonation shouldn't be an issue.
The stratosphere sells fender parts so you can pick and choose what you want. I think they just buy guitars and sell them as parts. Crazy parts is in Germany and they sell hardware.
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Maybe check out the kits over at Crimson Guitars, who are in the UK, if you want to do all the finish yourself.
BigD guitars has tons of good videos on YouTube using leather dye as a color finish. I actually have a few of the Angelus dyes he uses and they are really pretty cool.
Quote from: madbean on July 05, 2020, 01:20:10 AM
Maybe check out the kits over at Crimson Guitars, who are in the UK, if you want to do all the finish yourself.
BigD guitars has tons of good videos on YouTube using leather dye as a color finish. I actually have a few of the Angelus dyes he uses and they are really pretty cool.
Crimson Guitars is sponsoring a charity build off of their kits by a number of popular youtube luthiers including BigD.
https://www.greatguitarbuildoff.com/
dave
Quote from: simon on July 05, 2020, 12:10:35 AM
My main guitar for the past 8 years has been an mjt double bound tele. I don't foresee myself ever parting with it.
I bought mine from there eBay store as a body, neck, and hardware combo. It was one of there no reserve bids so I saw what the body looked like before buying it. The quality is good, though I have replaced most of the pieces on it. But that wasn't due to quality as much as preference. I switched out the neck, which was originally an all parts neck, for a warmoth one. I found the original was to small for my liking in neck contour and nut width. And I switched out the bridge and saddles for a compensated one. So now I have a neck I prefer and a guitar that intimates better. But since your not looking at a tele the intonation shouldn't be an issue.
The stratosphere sells fender parts so you can pick and choose what you want. I think they just buy guitars and sell them as parts. Crazy parts is in Germany and they sell hardware.
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thankyou for sharing your experience!
Quote from: madbean on July 05, 2020, 01:20:10 AM
Maybe check out the kits over at Crimson Guitars, who are in the UK, if you want to do all the finish yourself.
BigD guitars has tons of good videos on YouTube using leather dye as a color finish. I actually have a few of the Angelus dyes he uses and they are really pretty cool.
Hi
I dont think I want to do the finish myself, actually. Sorry if that wasnt clear. I dont imagine I have the skills to do a relic nitro finish.
Also the crimson kits are really quite expensive I feel, and they only do one neck profile, so sadly I dont think thats an option.
cheers
Ian
I had a good experience with Guitar Mill in the USA. Production time is waaaay longer than quoted, but they do a killer job. Relic nitro is their specialty, although I ordered an un-reliced one so I can't comment firsthand. Not sure if they ship to the UK but worth a look.
I have put together several partscasters.
This one:
https://www.instagram.com/p/B2uFLLhnzlT/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
Is a MJT body and Best Guitar Parts / Sound Guitar Works roasted maple neck. It is pretty awesome, and I play it live quite a bit. It has lambertone crema pickups in it, and it is great for the music I play live (p&w). The build was relatively painless, but I have spent a lot of time getting the setup right. I had to learn how to make a guitar nut, and I've acquired a bunch of tools to make my setups very consistent, along with fretwork and nut tools.
The second parts guitar I built is this one:
https://www.instagram.com/p/B0d5UNQH8R9/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
It is a guitar mill body and a USACG (RIP) roasted maple neck. It is also a very good guitar. It has the same pickups as the blue guitar but it sounds different (IMO). I love the mastery bridge, but I kinda wish that I'd sprung for the Duesenberg trem, but it wasn't available when I was building the guitar. This one I painted myself with paint from Roth Metal Flake.
I really like both of the bodies I have. They're both light and came together nicely. I had to get a custom guard for the MJT body, and also had to be pretty fussy about the bridge and wound up getting a great one from Armadillo Guitar parts. The Guitar Mill body I had to route the neck pocket portion of the pickguard to fit the body, but other than that it fit well, and was a $12 reverb guard, origin unknown.
You will have to screw around with the stuff to get it to fit, unless you get all of your parts from one supplier. It's also important to read all the documentation for the different parts, and make sure the fit works for each part separately, then all together.
I'd strongly suggest buying all the parts from a luthier you know. Then you can both go to him for tips, and ask him to make sure that things roughly fit. I got my Cabronita parts from a NZ luthier :) well, except for the pickup, I got that direct from TV Jones.
I've done a number of Partscaster Tele's and Strats. It's the only thing I'd do these days, as it has yielded better instruments at a lower price that are to my specific choices and configurations.
Best parts I've gotten have all come from Warmoth. You can get them elsewhere, with varying results, but I've been super happy with the parts I've gotten that originate with them.
Jacob
I have done three parts guitars and have gotten everything from Warmoth and I agree with Jacob that they do incredible work.
I really like the neck profiles that they offer and the roasted maple neck unfinished is so nice to play. If I was to make another strat it would be using super light swamp ash or alder and then finish it myself and use a roasted maple neck.
I have never tried intentionally tried relicing a guitar, that usually happens by ignorance on my behalf. I have a firm belief if I look at my prs the wrong way, more finish is coming off.
Hi everyone thanks for your input here
I have taken the plunge!
Perhaps I should document some of my work in this thread.
I bought a 2 piece alder strat body, centre join. 4.2lb / 1.85kg. Finished in a matt/satin nitro.
I have also got a bunch of stuff from Stratosphere, principally a rosewood board 10'' radius Allparts Japan neck which has a light relic matt lacquer finish. Really like it! the vibe is perfect for what I am hoping to do. The only real compromise was the vintage tall frets but I will hopefully get acustomed to them
Hardware wise I got a steel block vintage trem (6 point, bent saddled type), and some reliced vintage tuning machines. Neck plate, input jack are gotoh pre-aged also.
I kinda watched a load of videos about ageing hardware and it put me off, and to buy the relic'd nickel pieces already done was only a tiny uplift on a standard chrome or nickel piece.
I splashed out a bit on a real Fender gold anodize pickguard.
Electronics wise I ordered an american CRL 5 way switch, CTS pots and cloth wiring.
Pickups I really debated and in the end went for a set of scatterwound Red & Whites from A.Pribora. Rave reviews, and for the money it was a no brainer to try them out.
Will update with some pics!
Sounds awesome! I look forward to seeing how it turns out
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This is what the body, scratchplate etc looks like
(https://scontent.flhr2-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/l/t1.0-9/s960x960/116009581_10157137990485870_4478695144674325221_o.jpg?_nc_cat=109&_nc_sid=dd7718&_nc_ohc=Dz5q7X4YeIMAX9gqyJS&_nc_ht=scontent.flhr2-1.fna&_nc_tp=7&oh=a493b188297486463a8737c0a5f2f213&oe=5F405E6D)
First job I undertook (other than the jack plate) was the drill and fit the trem claw
(https://scontent.flhr2-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/s960x960/116121254_10157140367745870_3783545296548262314_o.jpg?_nc_cat=108&_nc_sid=8024bb&_nc_ohc=hbGmMjn27vkAX-O9zPi&_nc_ht=scontent.flhr2-2.fna&_nc_tp=7&oh=953c5ca85ef914b8c8fcec0c006ebc84&oe=5F40BD74)
(http://[img]https://scontent.flhr2-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/115929968_10157140367805870_5057468237587682352_o.jpg?_nc_cat=111&_nc_sid=8024bb&_nc_ohc=64jvSn0wdQwAX9a3DLi&_nc_ht=scontent.flhr2-2.fna&oh=da352371b99e33cf61b041c435977a38&oe=5F42D980)
The neck I received was drilled for 0.34'' bushings and I needed a bit larger, so these were reamed out before press fitting
(https://scontent.flhr2-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/115842789_10157140367845870_1196817383056661694_o.jpg?_nc_cat=103&_nc_sid=8024bb&_nc_ohc=gBe_h0rqElEAX8vAlCQ&_nc_ht=scontent.flhr2-1.fna&oh=d350e3eae5257c81c3947e08d44c1d81&oe=5F428D01)
Fitted the vintage tuners using a tiny drill bit to drill the holes. All screws ive been pre-lubricating with candle wax
(https://scontent.flhr2-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/116098077_10157140367895870_6859697095289737956_o.jpg?_nc_cat=102&_nc_sid=8024bb&_nc_ohc=hMQEk1IyRmEAX8lseqU&_nc_ht=scontent.flhr2-2.fna&oh=4ab39f2fd0fc43ad167d8515df3bc11e&oe=5F42BB09)
I know its not a Fender but couldnt resist the waterslide decals
(https://scontent.flhr2-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/109844016_10157142252900870_1969824410775693123_o.jpg?_nc_cat=105&_nc_sid=8024bb&_nc_ohc=4zoyoT257_UAX-ug5pP&_nc_ht=scontent.flhr2-1.fna&oh=0e6c8cdba5cd0e74197fb6bbf347cc23&oe=5F4370AA)
This was my first time ever applying a waterslide. The decals were fantastic, came pre-shaped, and were very easy to apply. Id watched a number of people struggle on youtube but this was plain sailing...
(https://scontent.flhr2-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/110319859_10157142252775870_6829907130864757491_o.jpg?_nc_cat=111&_nc_sid=8024bb&_nc_ohc=2jrGSgYpZqEAX9rqIIx&_nc_ht=scontent.flhr2-2.fna&oh=01868567798b0de8263005cdb20b1f46&oe=5F42F93F)
This last one was when the neck arrived. I had to do a tiny bit of shaping with sandpaper of the neck pocket - better that than it fitting too loosely I guess.
The neck is AllParts licensed by Fender, and is made in Japan. The finish is pre-aged (light relic) C shape, 10'' radius.
The maple parts have been tinted and aged, the finish feels like a neck thats been sanded down the played in a lot.
(https://scontent.flhr2-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/109650347_10157140367710870_5842174432705006040_o.jpg?_nc_cat=106&_nc_sid=8024bb&_nc_ohc=xdwarCwmRnMAX8XQBTz&_nc_ht=scontent.flhr2-1.fna&oh=5560c26405cf5c1ab572936bb7a5ada9&oe=5F423E80)
Next jobs are to get brave and drill the tremolo mounting screw holes, as well as the 4 bolt holes for the neck.... :o :o
Heres some detail shots of the neck, sorry they arent the best quality but you get the idea on the aged finish
(https://scontent.flhr2-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/110165529_10157146231370870_7742773038134545601_o.jpg?_nc_cat=109&_nc_sid=8024bb&_nc_ohc=sNCrWZJX6JYAX8fYeS_&_nc_oc=AQk-E-0O_MGMxY6Sif2nu-ybB1BIz4h0CgsXVgyMPUPHrtdAd-WN4iLvMDRRHIZwAzjp9rikgzXuUwGJh3HWJ4fL&_nc_ht=scontent.flhr2-1.fna&oh=c5091785428bc9715a788064373caf37&oe=5F40BB7F)
(https://scontent.flhr2-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/114714010_10157146231440870_9179329293402889155_o.jpg?_nc_cat=104&_nc_sid=8024bb&_nc_ohc=FQFBA_N8mn4AX_Yl0-n&_nc_ht=scontent.flhr2-2.fna&oh=ceeeaea7aea35fe885a6d1058d5f9b24&oe=5F4134A5)
(https://scontent.flhr2-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/115836565_10157146231280870_1097498924732265307_o.jpg?_nc_cat=110&_nc_sid=8024bb&_nc_ohc=tvPBf7qsOGIAX92LLld&_nc_oc=AQlXjmo6yBnbMKEcdGD4jasCp-Y7p9PHz3t627NFY_Q_J4ilJv44cAx7kkgrn675Oe4ImtN0bMSYGhlmkTsO4V6J&_nc_ht=scontent.flhr2-2.fna&oh=73da3f2c7452dc15f99adcd9d8260c99&oe=5F41D643)
Im going to do some light coats of Tru-Oil on the headstock face to "blend" in the decal.
Forgot to mention I also fitted a bone nut that I got from allparts to match the neck. Needed to sand it down a bit as it started out marginally too thick for the nut slot...
ok so drilling the neck on is scary :o :o
Quote from: LaceSensor on July 26, 2020, 08:56:16 PM
ok so drilling the neck on is scary :o :o
Yeah it is, you can plug is and try again though! I wouldn't do that more than once.
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Quote from: jimilee on July 26, 2020, 09:56:03 PM
Quote from: LaceSensor on July 26, 2020, 08:56:16 PM
ok so drilling the neck on is scary :o :o
Yeah it is, you can plug is and try again though! I wouldn't do that more than once.
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Hey Jimi
As luck would have it, my neighbour had a drill press which I used, seems like its gone together as good as I can make it (!) first time :)
Looking good! Where did you pick up the body? I love the finish!
Quote from: Stomptown on July 26, 2020, 11:17:07 PM
Looking good! Where did you pick up the body? I love the finish!
some dude in Austria...
I imagine relicing it will be sacriledge to some .... its the bit im now most scared of now the neck is on.
Well, I spose im also freaking out about levelling, crowning and dressing the frets :-[
Quote from: LaceSensor on July 26, 2020, 10:47:20 PM
Quote from: jimilee on July 26, 2020, 09:56:03 PM
Quote from: LaceSensor on July 26, 2020, 08:56:16 PM
ok so drilling the neck on is scary :o :o
Yeah it is, you can plug is and try again though! I wouldn't do that more than once.
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Hey Jimi
As luck would have it, my neighbour had a drill press which I used, seems like its gone together as good as I can make it (!) first time :)
That's awesome. I used my press on mine. The first couple guitars I built were hand drilled, huge difference.
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Last night I did the job of shieldint the body. I used some 50mm copper adhensive tape.
Did all the pickup and control cavities and even managed to get a loop of the stuff wound round a precision screwdriver and through to the jack socket cavity.
(https://scontent.flhr2-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/116426270_10157149387310870_2563344806110482643_o.jpg?_nc_cat=103&_nc_sid=8024bb&_nc_ohc=XBLrl4ZAM4AAX_nKBFs&_nc_ht=scontent.flhr2-1.fna&oh=4d194f261ac02d7169b3f86180ad2ea1&oe=5F45E95F)
Today, I strung the guitar up. The neck needs a decent amount of work which Im pretty intimidated by - any tips appreciated.
I figure it needed to be strung and settle under tension before I start adjusting anything. In order to work on the nut first, I set the bridge heights and checked the action roughly, as well as setting the intonation. All good - means I probably managed to not screw up the neck or bridge install (!).
(https://scontent.flhr2-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/116245002_10157150451880870_3766093092419507957_o.jpg?_nc_cat=100&_nc_sid=8024bb&_nc_ohc=dsQALhom-SoAX9jziiL&_nc_ht=scontent.flhr2-2.fna&oh=f9546b9b162d34c1470ca104f5b2e5b9&oe=5F449D07)
Then started to file and shape the nut. Its probably close to done, just need to shape the top down a bit, and bring the sides in. Think it was a 44mm and the neck is 42mm at the nut.
(https://scontent.flhr2-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/115852665_10157150451965870_5020810069478829440_o.jpg?_nc_cat=102&_nc_sid=8024bb&_nc_ohc=qZAjqWf9VjYAX9QaUkt&_nc_ht=scontent.flhr2-2.fna&oh=5dc9cf13591bc8579d6eac811be29758&oe=5F42F8CA)
From initial playing, there are clearly a few high frets, and the neck relief and action will need adjustment. However I really feel the neck needs to settle - it looks pretty straight but the truss rod is almost entirely loosened off. Im 99% sure its a single action, given the vintage vibe / heel access but Ill double check...
But I suppose levelling and dressing/crowning the frets is always on the cards with a more affordable neck.
Other than that, I did the strap buttons ::) for an easy job.
Ive got the string tree (just doing one, then deciding if it needs a second) to add at some point while its strung up.
Of course still waiting on the electronics (Germany and Russia postal services: please expedite :) )
Any tips or advice to a first time neck-wrangler, im all ears :)
Nice job with the neck. Looks like the string are pretty even on the fret board on both ends.
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Last year I learned to do the frets a completely different way than I've seen before. If you don't already have the tools most people use then it might save you some money. Only tools needed were sandpaper, a fret rocker, and a set of micro mesh sanding sheets. The crowning and polishing are incorporated into basically the same step.
looks great! which pickups are you looking at putting in?
I'm resisting the urge to do something similar...a strat or a jazzmaster
My parts Tele is my last guitar, put the most effort into getting a great neck: stainless steel frets, comfortable profile, locking tuners
Quote from: Matmosphere on July 27, 2020, 11:29:54 PM
Last year I learned to do the frets a completely different way than I've seen before. If you don't already have the tools most people use then it might save you some money. Only tools needed were sandpaper, a fret rocker, and a set of micro mesh sanding sheets. The crowning and polishing are incorporated into basically the same step.
I'm listening....
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Quote from: Matmosphere on July 27, 2020, 11:29:54 PM
Last year I learned to do the frets a completely different way than I've seen before. If you don't already have the tools most people use then it might save you some money. Only tools needed were sandpaper, a fret rocker, and a set of micro mesh sanding sheets. The crowning and polishing are incorporated into basically the same step.
Ive got a set of micromesh so this would be very helpful if you could look it up?
I think I just have a few high spots is all
Quote from: jtn191 on July 27, 2020, 11:49:08 PM
looks great! which pickups are you looking at putting in?
Im going to try a set of Alexander Pribora Red & White pickups
https://www.priborapickups.com/
The reviews are overwhelmingly positive, especially for the money (about the price of one "boutique" pickup for the set of three...)
I reckon I will be sorely tempted to do a Jazzmaster if I can pull this guitar off, but that will be a project for another year ;)
In an update to proceedings I have decided (partially as its my birthday and my parents wanted to buy me something) to order some luthier tools from Crimson Guitars in the UK. They seem to make some nice stuff. So ill have a neck straight edge, 16'' levelling beam, crowining file and fret finishing file plus polishing rubbers coming in soon.
Secondarily to this, I decided over the last few days to sacrifice my 1997 Korean Squier tele to the luthiery gods.
That being, I have removed all the poly finish, refinished in nitrocellulose, and then gone on to relic it, such that I can practice what it will take to relic the strat.
Turns out I did a reasonably good job, particularly of cracking the lacquer to give the checking effect.
Its sea foam green, and I also took the chance to replace some cheesy hardware (bridge, control plate, electronics) with nicer vintage nickel type parts.
Im probably gonna document some of the photos of this once its complete.
The next phase will be to do the clearcoat on the strat body, but Im loathed to actually take it apart again...gonna have to bite the bullet at some point.
Matt sent me some very lengthy and detailed instructions on fret work, which were gratefully received and I will practice on the Squier neck, along with my tools when they arrive :)
Cheers
You're done for now, you have the bug!!!
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You're done for now, you have the bug!!!
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I REALLY like the look of that gold pickguard on a sunburst. Never been attracted to that before. Let us know how you do the distressing on the guitar. I have a nitro guitar that was meh and was already half beaten to crap and I put one of those "vinyl wraps" on it. Which looked totally cool and they said would not affect the finish at all. About a year later I took it off and the guitar finish was totally destroyed. In a semi-good way I guess, it looked like it had aged about 50 years.
Couple of updates:
I made a loaded scratchplate! Ive soldered lots of stuff before but Ive never actually experimented with buying pickups and rewiring whole guitars.
This was fun to put together. I had to wait nearly a month for the pickups from mother Russia (A. Pribora hand wounds)
(https://scontent.flhr2-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/118211482_10157212415475870_3106977867184766521_o.jpg?_nc_cat=100&_nc_sid=84a396&_nc_ohc=g7WTguyCOsYAX8CoL0A&_nc_ht=scontent.flhr2-2.fna&oh=239d381e3e8a2f82c2f11e3143dbbef6&oe=5F6AA678)
In the meantime I have been spraying gloss nitro, which I have then aged and weathered. I had some issues with this that I didnt experience on my telecaster (refin in Sea foam green nitro) and ended up with more coats then I felt I would need in order to get it to check. Still, it looks similar to other examples of DIY nitro relic finish, and Im happy-ish with it.
(https://scontent.flhr2-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/118406955_10157212419040870_2359168447803773605_o.jpg?_nc_cat=102&_nc_sid=730e14&_nc_ohc=xpTXfyWokQ0AX9a6msV&_nc_ht=scontent.flhr2-2.fna&oh=5dcf10aed9ecf78e31593f9c524fd4c3&oe=5F6A4C54)
(https://scontent.flhr2-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/118319049_10157212419145870_697815615774311923_o.jpg?_nc_cat=103&_nc_sid=730e14&_nc_ohc=lx4Qv4Vc6FYAX8JiCbw&_nc_ht=scontent.flhr2-1.fna&oh=4308cd84966e2b58c3217038df012e0d&oe=5F6B3937)
I get the impression solid colours are easier to achieve a relic finish in because you have some sort of primer etc on there which wasnt present on this style of sunburst (I know it can be on other styles), because the nitro primer is softer and has more flex than the clear and would heat/cool in ways that allow cracking. Thats what the nitro supplier told me anyway.
Cos of the thicker than Id have liked result, I havent been so successful with adding wear; having to scrape like you see dudes with poly finishes rather than easily and gently flaking finish off. Therefore rather than the heavy relic I was aiming for its actually more of a light relic. You live you learn.
I actually have the guitar fully assembled and Im finding that I will need to do significantly more work to get it how I want it.
I already know I have to adjust the nut, but I am getting a wierd buzz on open high E which I beleive is a nut issue. Im also struggling with the setup, getting buzz on the neck which I cant tolerate so its back to setup basics 101 again. It defintiely plays nicer than it did when I first assembled it all to check stuff - the fret levelling has worked nicely (probably a couple spots I could refine) and I am not longer seeing the same choking I was due to high frets.
I did some work with rolling the edge of the board, but I could maybe do more. Also, despite using expensive tools from crimson guitars and polishing with micromesh up to 12000 grit I dont see shiny mirror frets that youtube tells me I should be able to achieve. I beleive the fret ends, despite me using the expensive tiny file, could do with a bit more finesse also.
This leads me to the conclusion that I still prefer my production USA fender strat ,which saddens me greatly. I was hoping this would be a killer guitar. Im not sure it is.
The second conclusion is I wont rush to do this type of thing again. Ive got maybe £800 in this and I could have put that towards something better perhaps.
Laslty, this is all through somewhat a negative lens today. I just woke up feeling really bummed out with the world. Anyone else feel the same? Maybe I need to write in anotehr thread for that.
Ill be back with some pics of the somewhat finished article.
Cheers
Ian / Lace / Gigahearts_FX
That's awesome looking so far!
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I didnt get suckered into the whole £10 tone caps. Mines a 33nF, and tone 2 works on both the bridge and middle.
Also note that I did a treble bleed on the volume pot with a standard box cap (1nF) with a 150k 1/8w resistor across it.
Playing breifly today, I think it sounds really authentic vintage strat vibe. My other strat is a hardtail with dimarzio rail type pickups so not exactly vintage accurate :)
I really need to do a level and crown on one of the ones I built over last summer, but I'm seeing what you are doing instead.
Here are some pics of the work in progress.
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(https://scontent.flhr2-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/118183368_10157216185510870_2441587497785715216_o.jpg?_nc_cat=106&_nc_sid=730e14&_nc_ohc=DEe6_M6yXIoAX9c-vZz&_nc_ht=scontent.flhr2-1.fna&oh=688c14c98987ab856a81aa0d070916cc&oe=5F698CBF)
(https://scontent.flhr2-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/118507172_10157216185560870_5561317070699819565_o.jpg?_nc_cat=103&_nc_sid=730e14&_nc_ohc=wplp2vgnJ-IAX-9Tkbo&_nc_ht=scontent.flhr2-1.fna&oh=c1fa84ec17d88f9029b08f4d86832c79&oe=5F69E522)
(https://scontent.flhr2-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/118311369_10157216185585870_5723670260284312049_o.jpg?_nc_cat=111&_nc_sid=730e14&_nc_ohc=wEudRDxzdPIAX9MT5u8&_nc_ht=scontent.flhr2-2.fna&oh=0554e84d2717b4a2a3a730200d93ece2&oe=5F69A441)
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I intend to do a bit more work on the relicing.
I havet done anthing to the neck to enhance the job Allparts did with their aged finish; maybe a few dings in the right place on the headstock.
Should also put some effort into ageing the plastic parts too...
The main work now however is probably to cut a new nut. Cant shake the buzz on the high open E string... Im convinced its the nut
Will also work some on the setup. Probably end up doing more on the fret end dressing, fingerboard rolling and will need to oil the rosewood at some point as its quite dry.
Thanks for all the interest and encouragement.
looks good. I like the checking on the body. I'm impressed at how well the gloss worked over the satin finish. I don't have much experience doing partscasters but I know that it took me a while to get it dialed in to where I love it.
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Not a fan of the "dragged down a gravel road" style of relicing so I really like what you've done. Much more subtle. You likely know this already but make sure that the nut slot is pitched towards the bridge. That way it peaks right at the front of the nut and doesn't give the string a chance to hit any more material than necessary. Generally the thinner the string the more the buzzing can occur.
Quote from: gordo on August 25, 2020, 07:44:17 PM
Not a fan of the "dragged down a gravel road" style of relicing so I really like what you've done. Much more subtle. You likely know this already but make sure that the nut slot is pitched towards the bridge. That way it peaks right at the front of the nut and doesn't give the string a chance to hit any more material than necessary. Generally the thinner the string the more the buzzing can occur.
Hi
Indefinitely cut the slots so they angle down the break angle to the tuners ie the highest point is towards the bridge. Must have not done a good enough job.
Im gonna replace it I think for the best
I would have liked to relic it a tad more and for a bit more consistency in the checking but I think with the type of aceelerated aging you get what you get in so far as it's a version of a natural process.
My biggest issue now really is the playability; Action set too high to reduce buzz
Probably end up levelling the frets AGAIN I an effort to address
They are level though or so I thought