madbeanpedals::forum

Hey 'Bean, here's an idea.

What about a multiple output, regulated power supply for our pedals?  Something that will generate 12v/18v, -9v and 5 or so 9v outputs.  I'd definitely buy a board or two for a project that fits in a 1590BB and kicks out some series mA's!

I'd love to have an isolated PS, basically a workalike of the Pedal Power 2, but that requires finding a nice toroidal transformer to take advantage of.

Okay, yeah. I have a basic one drawn up that would be able to 9, 12, 15 or 18 on any output depending on how you populate it. But, it doesn't use a transformer. Rather my idea was to use a 24v/1000mA supply and just break down the voltages with regulators. Neg. voltage could be done with a charge pump.

I've never put it together, though. I'll pull it out and have another look at it.

that would work great.  transformer isolated has its uses and benefits, but its not the end all.  separate regulated outputs is all I'm really asking for.  If this was to become a fabbed project I would be interested in a couple.  Not sure how much interest you need before it gets to that point.

Well, the design is fitted for a 1590B as a single sided with mounts. It would be easy enough to make. This is as far as I got with it. PCB is 2.8" x 1.3".





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here's some info on multitap transformers.

http://geofex.com/Article_Folders/Spyder/spyder.htm

https://taweber.powweb.com/store/magnetic.htm  (at bottom of page, non-toroidal multi-secondary designed for pedalboard supplies)

If this became one of the project PCBs I would be into it.

I'm thinking about making a board to go with the Weber transformer for isolated & regulated outputs.

Quote from: madbean on January 08, 2011, 07:09:09 AM
Okay, yeah. I have a basic one drawn up that would be able to 9, 12, 15 or 18 on any output depending on how you populate it. But, it doesn't use a transformer. Rather my idea was to use a 24v/1000mA supply and just break down the voltages with regulators. Neg. voltage could be done with a charge pump.

I've never put it together, though. I'll pull it out and have another look at it.

Is it possible to convert a PC PSU to serve as pedal board supply?

hi sir bean,

can i request?

i like to build a 1spot adaptor 9v 1mA to power my 7 pedals.

can you please give me a schematic layout and component that i will use?

thanks in advance!  :)

I'd be interested as well if the cost was enticing!  What do you think the approximate cost would be?

I would buy a board for this and build one too.  Great idea.

QuoteI would buy a board for this and build one too.  Great idea.

+1

Sounds like a great idea!! It would be amazing if this pedal had 4 outputs, 9v-12v-15v-18v depending on the need. Is that a possibility?
...but that might make it a lot more complicated

I have very interest about this project!!

Nice

Morelius

There are a lot of random power supply projects out there, but it would be nice to have one right here at "home"

Josh

I wouldn't mind giving this a shot either

AMZ effects has a prefab pcb, but it's always out of stock.  I believe the power "outlets" are regulated but they are not isolated like a voodoo labs power plus.

Josh

Quote from: gtr2 on March 11, 2011, 12:11:06 PM
AMZ effects has a prefab pcb, but it's always out of stock.  I believe the power "outlets" are regulated but they are not isolated like a voodoo labs power plus.

Josh

I am always going to that site and it always reads - "out of stock".

Bump  . . . just wondering if anything became of layout anyone please?  :D

Wow!  I want one BAAAAD!  Count me in for a buy.

What are the odds of getting one of these made?

Quote from: gtr2 on March 11, 2011, 12:11:06 PM
AMZ effects has a prefab pcb, but it's always out of stock.  I believe the power "outlets" are regulated but they are not isolated like a voodoo labs power plus.

Josh

In stock now. I built one and am happy with it.

ive got one of those waiting to get built as well, i'm considering building it directly into my pedaltrain board.

I've been thinking about this a lot lately. I could really use an isolated output power supply. It's a project I would buy in an instant and I know many more that need one!

Quote from: bigmufffuzzwizz on June 02, 2011, 06:17:34 PM
I've been thinking about this a lot lately. I could really use an isolated output power supply. It's a project I would buy in an instant and I know many more that need one!

This is the reason I haven't bought the AMZ pcb.  I've had more than one issue when using "daisy chained" type power supplies.

I haven't had to many problems w/ daisy chains despite a lot of people I see do. They really don't like EHX pedals very much though. I've seen people do it, we gotta make an 8 output power supply!!

Quote from: bigmufffuzzwizz on June 02, 2011, 06:17:34 PM
I've been thinking about this a lot lately. I could really use an isolated output power supply. It's a project I would buy in an instant and I know many more that need one!

that one is regulated but I don't think it's isolated.

Quote from: bigmufffuzzwizz on June 02, 2011, 06:48:10 PM
I haven't had to many problems w/ daisy chains despite a lot of people I see do. They really don't like EHX pedals very much though. I've seen people do it, we gotta make an 8 output power supply!!

Your right...this is where I ran into problems

Would be so into a regulated and isolated power supply.. imagine building it right into/under your pedaltrain, would be fantastic!

Quote from: madbean on January 08, 2011, 08:47:31 AM
Well, the design is fitted for a 1590B as a single sided with mounts. It would be easy enough to make. This is as far as I got with it. PCB is 2.8" x 1.3".

Looking back at Bean's post...each output is NOT isolated, is it?  I need more ports than my one PP2+ offers and I'd LOVE to replace it with something I can build.

Secondly, if this works for my needs, could some one etch one of these for me?  PRETTY PLEASE!  ;)

Why does it go deafiningly silent every time I post in this thread.  ???

You can't etch a board based on what Brian posted. He gave the schematic and the overlay picture of the board, not the transfer image. One could take the schematic and come up with a layout for it though.

I'd like to build a Madbean power supply project. :)

For an isolated power supply, you need transformers.  Either one with multiple taps or multiple small iso transformers.

This is what I'm looking into...  Only one transformer needed, instead of 1 transformer per 2 isolated outlets.  Then just connect the bridge rectifiers, voltage regulators, and filtering caps for each outlet.

https://taweber.powweb.com/store/magnetic.htm

WPDLXFMR-1

Josh

Quote from: gtr2 on June 06, 2011, 01:29:53 PM
This is what I'm looking into...  Only one transformer needed, instead of 1 transformer per 2 isolated outlets.  Then just connect the bridge rectifiers, voltage regulators, and filtering caps for each outlet.

https://taweber.powweb.com/store/magnetic.htm

WPDLXFMR-1

Josh

Yeah that's a multiple-tap transformer.  You hook it to the mains AC, then all you have to do is rectify the taps to convert from AC to DC.

I might pursue a fabricated PCB to mate with that Weber transformer.  Thoughts?

Have any of you tried the Medusa Power Supply? Looks fairly simple and doesn't require a transformer. Instead its set up for SMD voltage regulators. Here's a picture of the top
http://topopiccione.atspace.com/pjimages/TPCMedusa03.jpg

Yup that's the exact one I built with a 18V laptop supply for power. I used normal 7809, 7812 regulators. Works like a charm and quiet as although I did add another large capacitor (2200 µF) on input for extra filtering. Seems to work fine I made my board with two 9V and two 12V outputs, just cut the board down to suit my needs.  :)

BMFW your link is broken.

Quote from: gtr2 on July 21, 2011, 12:28:48 PM
BMFW your link is broken.

Here is the link to the main page

http://topopiccione.atspace.com/PJ25TPCMedusa.html (http://topopiccione.atspace.com/PJ25TPCMedusa.html)

I'd love to see a PCB for the Weber transformer, I have one of these waiting around to be used.

I second that.  My pedal board has grown in size from one pedal to 10 over the past year and I need a clean power supply rather that my OneSpot but don;t want to pay the money for a Voodoo or the like when I know I can spend way less and have more fun making it.  Give us a Clean Pedal Power project!  ;-)

Quote from: jstbrowsin on July 21, 2011, 09:18:54 AM
Yup that's the exact one I built with a 18V laptop supply for power. I used normal 7809, 7812 regulators. Works like a charm and quiet as although I did add another large capacitor (2200 µF) on input for extra filtering. Seems to work fine I made my board with two 9V and two 12V outputs, just cut the board down to suit my needs.  :)

That's what he used to power his though he mentions you can any power supply. Preferably something that provides a higher input voltage will be better for filtering lower to 9volts (if that's what your looking for). I'll probably just include a Road Rage board and make the enclosure bigger.

Quote from: gtr2 on July 21, 2011, 12:28:48 PM
BMFW your link is broken.

If you haven't checked that site out yet do so now! He has a 9v electric mistress project which now that I now how to etch became a lot more do-able.  :)

http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=48084.20 (http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=48084.20)
This is a cool application for the Weber tranny I had my eye on a while ago... guy built it using vero...

The only downside of the Weber transformer is that its pretty overkill for most pedal boards IMO.  I have had 10 pedals daisy chaining off my regulated Boss PSU no problem, so the need for so many isolated 9V outputs is a tad questionable IMO...

Personally I prefer Madbeans idea of having a lot of regulators in action from one 24V source... which you could easily build into a metal housing with IEC input

I plan to do a PCB for this, but I need to get my feet wet with a big order of something simple first.  I hope to get into this one by the fall though, its simple you know?

Hey All,

I'm working up a fabricated PCB project to mate with this Weber transformer, https://taweber.powweb.com/store/pdlxfmr.gif

it has 8x 11V AC Secondaries @ 300 mA each (would give 13V DC rectified I think).  Plus an additional secondary set for 12V AC @ 2A.  (Could e used for a high current DC output or AC outlet.

I'm trying to figure out what combination of fixed and adjustable "power channels" a good project would have.  I'm looking at using DIP package Rectifiers, and the standard regulators 78**/79** and LM317.

I believe the 78/79 series all have the same foot print so the user could just select which regulator they want for +/- 9/12 V outputs.  But they make these adjustable 317s for the dying battery effect.

Any interest in the 317s?  it adds a few more parts, including trimmers.  I could also make something that would switch voltages internally via DIP switches, but I'd like to keep it simple.

So, let me know what you think, and if there's anything I've overlooked.  I'd like to get this ready and prototype it while waiting for the Buffer PCBs to arrive.

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Here's my current thoughts on the project.  I want to make it super versatile, such that if the builder wants 8x 9/12V outputs at 300mA each, they can have that, or if they want 18/24V without jumping outputs, we can do that by stacking 2 secondaries.  I also want the option to add additional regulated/filtered outputs to each transformer channel, so you could imagine 3 "Isolated Banks" of 2-3 regulated outputs each (un-isolated within the bank, 300mA total).

In a nutshell,
Every Output is separately Filtered/Regulated
Each Bank/Channel is Isolated from the others
Use as many outputs per Channel as you want/need within the current limit

Isolated Channel Options (A-H), 300mA per Channel unless otherwise stated

A - 1-3x 9/12V Outputs
B - 1-3x 9/12V Outputs
C - 1-3x 9/12V Outputs
D - 1 9/12V Output or 1-3x 18/24V Outputs (300mA Total)
E - 1 9/12V Output or 1 Super High Current 9/12V Output (600mA)
F - 1 9/12V Output and/or Adjustable Voltage/Sag Output
G - 1 9/12V Output
H - 1 9/12V Output

*Alternate D & E options require 2 Transformer Secondaries, and would eliminate Channels G & H

I've kinda struggled with how to present this, but the project should be able to cover any thing you need it to.

Thoughts?

I'm getting one once you finish it.  That's all I know.  :)

Could someone who has one of the Weber Transformers already let me know what size are the wire leads on the secondaries?

I wish I understand what your saying, but I too want one when finished! When you say 1-3 outputs for channels A-D is this similar to a daisy chain?

Quote from: bigmufffuzzwizz on August 08, 2011, 03:12:18 AM
I wish I understand what your saying, but I too want one when finished! When you say 1-3 outputs for channels A-D is this similar to a daisy chain?

YES! that's the term I was searching for.  I'm talking about "daisy chaining" off of the 8 isolated outputs.  There's more than enough current there, and the daisy chained outputs can be separately filtered/regulated.

That sounds really useful. If I could daisy chain the sagged voltage to my wah and muff...that would be TITS. So this box would supply up to 15/16 pedals? Unless you put 5+ on each daisy chain. How close is this to being finished/released?

It's still in the outline phase, but I have the parts picked already.  It's simple that it will probably take me a week to generate the PCB design.  I am going to wait until after the buffer boards come in before placing any more orders.  So probably mid september at the earliest.  I don't want to rush this project because it is a bit dangerous with regards to the transformer and mains wiring.

You can put as many daisy chained outputs in as you want (within the current limits).  I'm just deciding how many regulators there will be on board.  The idea is that the builder populates it to what fits their needs.  I will also make an enclosure recommendation as well as a fuse/fuse holder and wall plug.

An enclosure that matches the VooDoo Lab units would be nice. I think it could be quite handy to drop this under a Pedaltrain.

As to the specs Austin, this looks very promising. Perhaps this is one of the biggest holes in DIY.

Definitely count me in for at least one!  :)

Quote from: jkokura on August 08, 2011, 04:02:31 AM

As to the specs Austin, this looks very promising. Perhaps this is one of the biggest holes in DIY.

I agree.  One thing that kept me from the Weber transformer was the size.  I saw some build ups on the net and it was to big to fit under a PT once it was in an enclosure.  Hopefully with what you have planned it would be possible!  Keep up the good work!

Josh

i think its doable.  Depending on the PCB size and the Transformer mounting, we probably will need to go taller or wider than the pedal power.  I will try to figure out both options, because wider should fit under the PT's.  Remember though, we'll need room for all those jacks as well!  I almost think going taller in something like the Tim enclosure would save more space, but I don't know if it would fit underneath.

Hey, if someone wants to help me out, I need a PS that has a bunch of 9vDC outputs (or one, I'm happy to daisy chain as my 1-spot is currently supplying all 6-7 9v pedals quite nicely) AND a 16vAC output for my HT-Dual...  Great pedal, stupid power requirements.

Currently I have a a 1-spot and a blackstar PS on a 4-way adapter board underneath my pedalboard.  I'd rather a neater solution that runs directly off mains with an IEC cord.

Wider = fine. Taller not so much.

Sourcing the enclosure we want is something we can all do. Anyone know where an enclosure about the right size might be located?

Jacob

Here are some options, the first one being wider and the transformer would mount to horizontally to the inside top face.

http://www.pedalpartsplus.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=PPP&Product_Code=1123&Category_Code=ENC15


In these, you could mount it vertically against one of the sides,

http://www.pedalpartsplus.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=PPP&Product_Code=1604&Category_Code=ENC16

http://www.pedalpartsplus.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=PPP&Product_Code=1122&Category_Code=ENCH

Someone have a PT handy who can measure? The Pedal Power specs state it's 3.4" wide and 1.75" tall. That 1590J is 3.75" and 1.77". I'm worried that the extra .35" means it's too wide.

If we can't find an enclosure I might make one.

Jacob

This kit from Weber looks pretty interesting:
http://taweber.powweb.com/store/modkits.htm#eps (http://taweber.powweb.com/store/modkits.htm#eps)

I've got a meatball clone in a 1590d and that's quite a bit deeper that a vlpp+ it's about as tall and wide but it won't fit into a pedaltrain without some serious dremel abuse to the board. I held the box up to the pedaltrain and you will need to shear of the inside wall of the middle crossmember to give you a out 1/4" off clearance just to fit the box. you will also need room for the plugs to be inserted and removed possibly.

maybe a modified looper enclosure, like the ones at ppp would work.
http://www.pedalpartsplus.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=PPP&Product_Code=1200&Category_Code=ENC14 (http://www.pedalpartsplus.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=PPP&Product_Code=1200&Category_Code=ENC14)

that would be pretty easy to knock an inch or so in vertical size off, and it would cover the side to side distance of a pedal board better. you could use shorter power leads.

Quote from: jubal81 on September 01, 2011, 11:10:15 PM
This kit from Weber looks pretty interesting:
http://taweber.powweb.com/store/modkits.htm#eps (http://taweber.powweb.com/store/modkits.htm#eps)

yes, that's essentially 1 channel of what i'm putting together.

Quote from: cjkbug on September 02, 2011, 01:32:14 AM
I've got a meatball clone in a 1590d and that's quite a bit deeper that a vlpp+ it's about as tall and wide but it won't fit into a pedaltrain without some serious dremel abuse to the board. I held the box up to the pedaltrain and you will need to shear of the inside wall of the middle crossmember to give you a out 1/4" off clearance just to fit the box. you will also need room for the plugs to be inserted and removed possibly.

maybe a modified looper enclosure, like the ones at ppp would work.
http://www.pedalpartsplus.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=PPP&Product_Code=1200&Category_Code=ENC14 (http://www.pedalpartsplus.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=PPP&Product_Code=1200&Category_Code=ENC14)

that would be pretty easy to knock an inch or so in vertical size off, and it would cover the side to side distance of a pedal board better. you could use shorter power leads.

this box is pretty close to the PP2 dimensions.  http://www.pedalpartsplus.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=PPP&Product_Code=1123&Category_Code=ENCH

I'd definitely be interested in one of these . . . thanks!

It doesn't have the taps that the Weber has, but I just found this for $4.95.
http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G18236 (http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G18236)

Yes yes yes!! I would take a bunch of these if it comes together.

I just placed an order for other projects, so I'm gonna work on this next.

Here's a preview of what I'm working up so far.

Looks great.
Just wondering if D1 is really necessary. I'm about to homebrew something like this and wasn't planning on using a diode there.

D1 is suggested by the regulator configuration I'm basing this off of.  However, it could just be left out when built.

Quote from: aziltz on October 18, 2011, 02:19:10 AM
I just placed an order for other projects, so I'm gonna work on this next.

Here's a preview of what I'm working up so far.

Cool layout aziltz!

I'm working on my own power supply now, just designing the pcb but I'm new to eagle so its taking me a little time.
Basically I'm doing 4 isolated outputs using LM317Ts and based off The GGG ultra clean psu and Geofex Spyder.  I decided to used the 'adjustable regulator with improved ripple rejection' schematic from page 14 of this datasheet (http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheet2/1/03cgthpfat4t4ly5kfp5lpwladfy.pdf) with an extra protection diode on a single sided pcb so I can etch it myself.  This particular datasheet by National Semiconductor actually makes quite good reading for the use of the LM317T.  

Once my PSU is up and running I can post it here if anyone's interested :)

Quote from: nzCdog on November 03, 2011, 03:00:53 AM
Once my PSU is up and running I can post it here if anyone's interested :)

Very interested!! Will it be possible to get 8 outputs from your design?

nzCdog,  Sounds like a cool project.  What transformer(s) are you using to isolate the outputs?


I'm planning to submit this project for fabrication on November 28th.  I should have them back by Jan. 1st.

I was thinking I might not go with all 8 on one board.  Perhaps 2 or 4 on separate boards that are initially connected but can be broken apart if needed.  Not sure if there is a great benefit to this or not.

Quote from: bigmufffuzzwizz on November 03, 2011, 04:40:36 PM

Quote from: nzCdog on November 03, 2011, 03:00:53 AM
Once my PSU is up and running I can post it here if anyone's interested :)

Very interested!! Will it be possible to get 8 outputs from your design?

Only 4 isolated... but you could easily use two of the boards to get 8 isolated outputs I guess...  I'll post it here when its done :)

Quote from: aziltz on November 03, 2011, 05:14:11 PM
nzCdog,  Sounds like a cool project.  What transformer(s) are you using to isolate the outputs?


I'm planning to submit this project for fabrication on November 28th.  I should have them back by Jan. 1st.

I was thinking I might not go with all 8 on one board.  Perhaps 2 or 4 on separate boards that are initially connected but can be broken apart if needed.  Not sure if there is a great benefit to this or not.

Thanks man.  Your idea of having each one able to be separated is very cool!

I bought this (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/120696012662?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649).  220V Primary and 4 secondaries, 2x12V and 2x18V.  I intend to have 2 isolated 9V supplies to daisy chain my normal pedals 1 x 12V for my Nova Delay and a 12.6V for my upcoming Boobtube project.  However they are all adjustable so I can change their voltages if I need to.  My goal is a very quiet power supply... it's going into a metal housing with EMI filtration and using an R-Core type iron which are supposed to be very quiet.  Prolly won't be very small, however.

Right now I'm trying to figure the best form factor for heatsinking the ICs  :-\  

OK here's the pcb design.  Its verified... board is assembled and tested ok... rest of the PSU in under construction now!   The big gap by the IC is to allow for the heatsink...  Build pics once its all finished :)

(Edit... I have four of these side by side on one PCB for my PSU)

Build pics here (http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=3133.msg26823#msg26823)

nzCdog's disclaimer: Please if you are not 100% sure of what you are doing... DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME!  Wiring with mains voltages is dangerous, you could be SERIOUSLY HURT or KILLED if you don't do this right.  If someone else gets hurt or killed by your work you could also be SUED or GO TO JAIL!  This information is provided for the interest of highly skilled enthusiasts and qualified electrical workers only. Please be careful if you attempt building your own power supply!

Wow, this is right on time. I have been working on an integrated effects board with a built in looper and power supply's. It will incorporate my
homeade pedals, (serendipity, zombii, egodriver, sunking, zygote, macheen, fat&pretty(optocomp), Matchless hotbox,  & maybe a Craig
Anderton tube fuzz (but it needs +- 9v. power. It also has 3 effects that I've removed from their rack enclosures or floor boxes and put under
the 18" x 24" top plate along with the other pedals: a Chandler tube drive, a Roland CE-300 (the rack version of the CE-1) and an old
SAD4096 delay (until I finish building the much better one that I have the art and major parts for). Everything will be driven by a buffer and I
like Anderton's design because it is a splitter too, so I could say, send a totally clean signal straight to a mixing board. I'll also probably build
in several points where I can take a separate line out and an ABY since I often gig with two amps.
Also along the top behind the main board there is room for the three commercial pedals I don't want to remove from their enclosures but which
I'll incorporate into the looper: a 1980 ADA flanger, an early (white, non-pedal) Fuller Dejavibe, and a 1998 Fulldrive.  They just fit across the
top and will be bolted down firmly.
Everything goes through the looper so the homeade effects are housed in cheap electrical contracters boxes ($1-$2) and don't require stomp
switches, jacks, etc. since those are all part of the looper. The boards are relatively small so I can easily fit 2 or three to a box.
I guess it seems like I have a lot of overdrive pedals but I've been gigging for 25 years and one things I've learned is 1) you can't have too
many overdrive/fistortion/fuzz pedals 2) diferent pedals sound good or bad with different amps/guitars. For instance, the Fulldrive sounds
great with my Deluxe Reverb but not as good with my JCM800 while the Chandler tube driver is just the opposite - just kills through a
Marshall but is just buzz through Fenders.

Right now I am sorting out my power supply problems.  I have a +-15V. supply for the opto-comp, two more boards to supply bipolar power
to anything, like Anderton designs (I have etching art for his splitter/buffer that uses a 5532 instead of the weird 14 pin opamp he used on
everything which can no longer be found). For the remaining +9 boards I think I'd like to use a  design like in this  thread - I'll put 8 of the
boards together and use them with the Weber 8 out Xformer I ordered.  I'll have to double up a few outputs but since they are 300MA. there
won't be a problem,  I built the slant enclosure for the pedals/looper with a 7" wide ledge at the rear to build the power supply's on and it can be
sheilded easily.

My main problem is doing the computer work to make the etching art. I can't even paste eight of them together to make one board in my
drawing program, Gimp!

My name is Kiira BTW and I kinda started learning things backward. I was tired of lugging my 100 Watt heads to the shop to get repairs done
so I got the idea to try and learn how to repair them myself. Gradually (ESP. after the WWW came along  and all these really great people
started teaching me stuff) I learned how to build my own amps from schematics, do mods, build tube studio gear, and even do some designing.
Now I've gotten around to learning how to build my own pedals. I've done the opto-comp (etched the board) and the first 3 boards I got from
Madbean. a zombii, egodriver and poindexter.  I purchased 3 more discontinued boards from one of the members here, a sunking, zygote and
Macheen.  This forum seems to be the best around.

uglogirl

PS - Weber sells a kit with the multi-tapped output Xformer and four rectifier boards for $30 and you can order additional boards - 4 more
would be $20.  Seems like a good deal to me.

Hey Kiira, welcome to the forum!  I use GIMP too, its great software :)

Maybe a silly question but why use a 317 instead of a basic 7809?

I just don't get it.

Hey djaaz... no not a silly question,  this power supply using the LM317T gives the option of any voltage output...  not just 9V like the 7809.  You can adjust the Volts using the trimmer

I did not see the trimmer on the schematic, sorry! I was looking at the layout and my eyes went just through R2 and just saw a resistor.

I'm looking at building a regulated power supply since i'm having so much troubles with noises in my delay build but i'm kind of puzzled by the simplicity of the schematic i find.

Basic rectifier, two caps & a regulator. Can't see how the wall warts i'm using with much more complicated schematic can't nail it.

The filtering thing i've seen are all based on playing with the caps values. I've seen some article in which an inductor was used but could not figure out how it could make any difference.

Guess i just need to try.

Perhaps if your delay is causing a problem, you should check that out first? Check the wiring, maybe add another filter etc?

Mine is a reasonably simple design, but its important to remember that the PCB is only part of the whole power supply.  Lots of factors other than the schematic contribute to the performance of the power supply... eg: mine is mounted in an earthed metal chassis, has RFI filtration in the IEC socket (those inductors), uses an ultra Clean 'R-Core' type transformer, has all outputs isolated, uses good wiring and construction methods... etc etc... even capacitor materials plays a factor in performance would you beleive!  I found geofex interesting, googled hifi power supplies, and even found this datasheet on the LM317T (http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheet2/1/03cgthpfat4t4ly5kfp5lpwladfy.pdf) quite good reading...  Good luck ;)

Hey guys I'm working on a power supply myself right now I though I would share.  I'm using the weber transformer listed in the spyder docs.  If you guys have any feedback let me know, I can tweak it.  It should produce.

• 8 9v DC outs up to 300ma
• 1 9 v AC out up to 2A
• All outputs are completely isolated

I have the transformer, I just need a few more 7809s.

Circuit
(http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/bb321/bitracer/Pedals/overkill_circuit-1.png)

Layout(already mirrored for etching)
(http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/bb321/bitracer/Pedals/overkill_layout_mirrored-1.png)

I have to ask, what is the rationale behind putting a 1000 uf cap in each circuit?  It was suggested to me on another forum, and I see it here as well, but the 780* datasheet suggests .33 and .1 uf.  I provided space for a 220, and a 100 max.  I am planning on a 100, and 10... these should be plenty big for ripple protection right?

You don't need to mirror your entire layout for etching, otherwise it will be backwards when you go to lay it out. All you have to mirror is any text or logo you want to have on the bottom of the board.

When you print it out not mirrored and then transfer it to the copper clad, it mirrors (on the bottom of the board), then when you flip it over to start putting your components through the top, it lays out just the way it printed out originally (not mirrored). Does that make sense?

Great layout, by the way!

Ian

Ian thanks for the feedback.  Can you explain the 1000uf caps in some designs?  I don't really have the space, and the 780x data sheet suggest tiny caps 1 if on the supply side and .3uf on the jack side.  I'll put thEm in m design if they are actually needed, but I don't see why they are.

Again I D thinking a 100uf and a 10uf, but even those seem like overkill for ripple protection

Well, although the Cioks AC10 is exactly what I need (bunch of 9vdc, and a 16vac) it's way too expensive for me to currently (ha!) justify.

I've got a bug to build a suitable PS for my board but I'm trying to work out what's required for the AC output beyond a suitable transformer (my googlefu must be weak) ...  I imagine I can get a multi-tapped tranny with 16vac or close enough with and a few 9vac outs to rectify to DC.

Would this one of these be ok as a starting point?
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=MM2008
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=MM2002

As far as the 16vAC output goes, does it need to be filtered, smoothed, or anything like that, or can I just hook it up directly to/from the proper tranny output, and is 15vac going to be close enough for my 16vac blackstar?

There's heaps on the web about building DC supplies, but not so much about the AC-AC side of things...

I was wondering the same thing with regards to the 9vac on the weber.

Quote from: Willybomb on May 28, 2012, 01:46:41 PM
As far as the 16vAC output goes, does it need to be filtered, smoothed, or anything like that, or can I just hook it up directly to/from the proper tranny output, and is 15vac going to be close enough for my 16vac blackstar?

Well, I don't know about the weber, but I just pulled apart my spare Blackstar PS (I got the HT-Dual in the UK, and while the UK ps worked fine in Australia with an adapter plug - same voltages - I decided I wanted a native plugged ps, hence the spare) and there's nothing inside the wart except the transformer between the wall and the pedal beyond a 3A fuse in the wall plug.

So, now I have a 240vac -> 16vac 800mA transformer that could be used in a PS project.  It has no secondary outs though so how would I go about getting 16VAC and a couple (or single - I'm happy to daisy chain) of 9VDC outputs off it?  Can't be that hard, surely?

Alternatively, now I know the AC-AC path is straight wall-pedal, so I can probably just use one of the trannies I posted earlier.

I was looking into super capacitors today. There are charging control chips that probably make it possible to alternate charge a pair of them so you could make a power supply that essentially powers from mains, but runs your pedals off 'batteries'.

Might be crazy or crazy expensive, but it's got me curious.

EDIT:
Just found this video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=shky9wfpfoc

Ok, I had a try at making a dual AC + DC power supply using this transformer:

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=MM2002

and this schematic, minus the 12v and 5v sections:

http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-A-Power-Supply-For-Your-Guitar-Pedals/

This was hooked up to the 0-9v tabs on the transformer which gave me a pretty steadyish 9vdc.

I hooked up a lead to the 0-15v tabs on the transformer to directly power the Blackstar HT-Dual.


Separately, when I hooked up the 9vDC to the 5 pedals (Berry tuner, DS-1, Bad Horsey, Berry FX-600, Biyang Baby Reverb) without the Blackstar connected, they all lit up quite nicely.  I didn't worry about playing through them - lets see the LEDs work first!

When I hooked up the 15vAC to the Blackstar without the DC pedals attached, it lit up nicely too.

However, the issue that occured was that when I hooked everything up (stomps to 9vDC and Blackstar to 15vAC) at the same time, my stomp LEDs started flashing (low volts?) and then the rectifier diodes on the 9vdc Verostrip let out their magic smoke.

What have I done wrong here?  The blackstar takes about 800ma-1.1a, so have I run too much current through the diodes in hooking the DC circuit up to the shared 0v tab?

Ok, I'm guessing it was a voltage mismatch or something as it was the diodes with their arses on the -ve rail that smoked. 

Anyway, we tried it by hooking both the the dc circuit and the blackstar lead up to the 15v and 0v tabs and again, the pedals worked fine if the blackstar wasn't hooked up, and vice versa.  The LEDs on the pedals flash and all the LEDs on the Blackstar light up (and dont respond to switch presses) if everything is connected at the same time.  So, I'm thinking there's too much current draw going on and nothing is getting enough off the one pair of tabs.

End result and conclusion:  Probably just easier although much less elegant, to stick a smaller dedicated transformer for the 9v stuff in there as well.

Isn't the power consumption of the blackstar ht dual, 22vdc at 1.1amps? If so, it doesn't have the proper output voltage/current.

No, mine's an older one from before they went to a DC supply - 16vAC, 800ma.

Trust me, I pulled apart the power supply that came with it and the only thing in there was a transformer between the mains and pedal.

Oh, ok... that makes sense. I just looked it up on google, thats why I thought it was that (22vdc at 1.1a).

Sorry!

Maybe its just something weird w/ that xfmr?

Like you said...pedals maybe pulling to much current when there all on or something, and the xfmr can't handle it...IDK, good luck!

Hey guys, sorry for the cross-post but I built a power supply recently and it turned out really well.  I thought I would share it.

I'm using the weber "spider" transformer.  One AC primary, to 8 11v(200ma), and one 9v(2000ma) secondary.

My layout converts all the 11v, down to 9vDC, and the 9vAC goes straight to a jack. 

You could of course change the output by playing with the resistors on the LM317, and I believe with a large input cap, you could get 12v out.

All 9 outputs are super clean and super steady, no trimmer necessary... I can post more pictures here if you would like... and no, its no longer cased in a spongebob lunchbox :(

here is a link
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=97482.60

I'm seeing lots of different values for the filter caps in these PSU schematics.  RG's spyder uses a 220uF, one on instructables uses 100uF in the schematic but he actually used 10000uf in his project (!), and the one linked to earlier in this threas uses 2200uF.

I've built the instructable one on vero as per the schematic, and it works fine, but I also have some 220 lying around.  How much of a difference is it going to make?

+1 Great

I've found this during my investigations on a new power supply:

http://n-audio.net/sites/default/files/Powerbox%20MK2%20Schematic.pdf

no values though

finally I got a Cioks DC10 for my birthday so... end of the story. But I would be interested on building another one for a second pedalboard...