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Messages - Herostratus

#1
Awesome, thanks for the detailed reply. Much appreciated!
#2
Yes D4 is not jumpered. I put the diode in my MN3007 one by mistake and it would distort slightly. I just cut it off and no more distortion.
#3
Hi all, I have finished my aion stratus, and it is distorting and passing signal and all controls are working as expected. Problem is there is no difference in sound between diodes installed and diodes removed altogether. So I guess I'm hearing opamp distortion only. Can someone who has built one have a look at my diode section and let me know if I've jumpered/ orientated properly?

Thanks!
#4
Tech Help - Projects Page / Re: Porkbarrel depth
March 10, 2014, 09:12:02 PM
+2. Only reading about these mods after I've finished the pedal... Might have to build a second one to load all the mods onto.
#5
General Questions / Re: Pork Barrel Kinda Stiff
March 09, 2014, 11:01:29 PM
There's another thread where r39 was replaced with a 47k. I did this mod just now and it has heaps more depth. Have to turn to about a third to get it to sound like the stock version at max depth. No led used.
#6
Awesome! Chips confirmed working in my pork barrel! Will buy some more while they are there.
#7
Another angle.
#8
Yeah bought from funkward-tech.
#9
Hi all,

These just came in the mail today. On  first inspection they appear to have been black topped. I have never bought any before, so not sure what I should be looking for. They are for a pork barrel, still waiting for the PCB in the mail.

#10
Hi all, I have pork barrel PCB arriving any day now, and I have all components purchased and laid out for it. I have used all .25w resistors though, and have been noticing other builds using .5w. What is the consensus here? Should I get the higher W ones or not worry? Will using a charge pump for 15v need the .5's? Not that I am, but I can't seem to see anything in the build notes.
#11
And no its not in the box yet!
#12
Hi all. I have finished building my first pedal, and to my surprise it has basically been successful. It is the tayda plexitone PCB (I know!, I wont do it again). I bought it before I'd read much of these forums and didn't realise there were a few strong opinions about them. The thing sounds good, and has the full and creamy sort of overdrive that I was expecting. The problem is that its output is way louder than when the pedal is in bypass. Even with the output volume at zero, it seems several times louder than the bypassed signal. And with the "boost" engaged it is even worse. I finished It a few night ago and have been double checking everything. I did try increasing the value of the resistor first in line after the input. This tamed it a little, but I guess is not the right fix, and have put it back to original. The only component which deviated from the bill of materials is the ICL7660SCPA which was substituted with an ICL7660CPAZ, as this was all tayda had in stock. I don't know what the differences are, but cannot find anywhere where its says they may or may not be compatible. Could this be causing my problem? Are there any simple noob gotchya's which may cause this?
#13
Open Discussion / Re: Tayda Electronics clone PCBs
February 02, 2014, 02:50:18 PM
Hi all, this in my first post on this forum. I have not yet built a pedal, but have been into electronics and RC models most of my life. I am also an aircraft mechanic. I was not aware that tayda has just started making PCB's, or of any of this discusson. I have just ordered  a multiplex off tayda and a pork barrel off madbean, with all the components from tayda. (apart from the BBD...) There were discussions like this a few years ago on the RC forums, mainly RC Groups, about clone and cheap knock off models and electronics. The King of this part of the business is a HK based distributor called Hobbyking. It was started by an Australian, who I assume, Is now filthy rich. There was a lot of backlash at first, and people swearing they would not touch them, but after a few years they seem to be accepted. It is hard to go to a club now and find anything except the largest and most expensive model's which do not contain some kind of HK product. They do things like clone a $250 speed controller called a YGE and sell it for $50 and call it a YEP. Or clone a $300 gyro unit called a Vbar, sell it for $50 and call it a FuBar. In both these cases even the OEM software works. They make complete foam models that are half or a third the price than a similar name brand product brought locally. They also sell a lot of their own brand stuff that is equivalent to items that cost 10x price when brought locally. I guess the point is that there is not much we can do as a group to affect the sales of these super low cost HK suppliers, especially if a lot of customers are like myself and are not as aware of the backstory to how the PCB came to be. I guess Im not wanting to have much of an opinion either way, just trying to say that there is probably not a whole lot that can be done about it, and there are a lot of small niche markets going this way.