Messages

Will the new iteration still have separate volume/level controls for the Clean(dry signal) & Compression(wet signal)? This is what I really like the most about this circuit - being able to blend in your uncompressed signal. To my ears it adds a subtle layering effect that adds more depth & complexity to the overall sound. I also really like that the circuit has little to no change on the original input signal EQ wise.

I see that the 4:1 is no longer being offered - bummer! I LOVE that circuit! It's simple, compact, and it sounds great. I will be ordering the Kompromat, however, the 4:1 is perfect for use in combo situations where space is limited. Does anyone have any 4:1 circuit boards that they are willing to sell?
In desperate need of a squeeze!

Ok, solved the Vintage/Modern switch popping problem - I installed a 1M resistor across pin 1 pole 1 to pin 1 pole 2 then the another 1M between pin 3 pole 1 to pin 3 pole 2.
Dead quiet switching now.

Footswitch popping still a problem! Any suggestion?
Having the same issue with my Mangler build.

Hi Brian,
It was #1. I adjusted Gain and Offset to what sounded best to my ears and didn't make sure the bulb was turning completely off. Dooh!
Disco! It now has the correct intensity range and sounds fantastic!

I used the Silonex 7532 and 7371 bulb as you suggested in the build doc.

I have another minor issue though that I hope you can give me some assistance with:
There is a loud "pop" when switching from Vintage to Modern and back again as well as a lesser "pop" when engaging the footswitch to turn on/off the effect.
Looking at the schemo I noticed that both C28 & C1 have 1M pulldown resistors but should I install another 1M resistor downstream of C29 to ground?
If so where would I attach the resistor? Which leg of C29 and which pin of switch? It's hard to tell what trace goes to which leg of C29 and what trace goes to which switch pin (ya know cause I have already boxed this baby).
You have to realize that I'm mostly just swatting at flies here. 

As for the footswitch "pop" I'm guessing it might be from the off board LED which I have mounted on a 3pdt board from GPCB?

I'm running this at 18v DC and utilizing the filter PCB with a switch to allow use with either unregulated walwart or regulated 18v DC pedalboard power supply. I've omitted R54 on the filter PCB and using a jumper in its place.

Any help or further insight would be greatly appreciated!

Here are some pics:

Great Brian! Thanks so much! I'll check on all those items.

Thanks Brian for pointing out what should have been obvious to me, Doooh! That's what I get for working on too many circuits at once. 
I ended up with 2 Greenies on a DPDT on-on switch - a .22uf for fairly close to neutral EQ and .47uf for a fatter/fuller tone which works well with single coils ala Strat/Tele. I voiced using a 335 copy with Lindy Fralin P92's.
Thanks again for responding to me for this. If you get the time please give me a little insight on my Harbinger One post.

Dazed and Confused

It's at 50% intensity with the Intensity control maxed and speed set at a high rate. The intensity or depth lessens, as expected, further with lower speed settings. I pulled cap covering the light sensors and bulb and spray painted the inside a reflective silver. Originally I had it painted black. The change made no difference in performance.

Just completed my first Mangler build - Q1 2N404 Hfe 57 biased @ .51v (used suggested 33K for R2, Q2 AC125 Hfe 105 biased @ 4.4v (used 2.2K for R4). R1 feedback resistor 82K for a little smoother breakup. I put C1 on a dpdt on-on switch to go from standard 2.2uf cap to a 22uf to effect an EQ shift. It sounds really good but even with standard 2.2uf cap it still sounds a bit woofie. I have built several more straight up FF circuits and the EQ switch had a greater impact on the overall tone.
Any suggestions on how to open up the tone (tighten up the bass) a bit more on this circuit?

I originally posted this in the General questions section but haven't gotten any responses yet and I would really like to put the finishing touch on a great sounding circuit.

Finally got around to building a Harbinger One circuit board from a couple of years ago. Everything works and I dialed in a great sound with the 2 trimmer adjustments. Problem is that even with the Intensity knob turned all the way up I'm only getting the depth of effect that I should be hearing at 50%.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Finally got around to building a Harbinger One circuit board from a couple of years ago. Everything works and I dialed in a great sound with the 2 trimmer adjustments. Problem is that even with the Intensity knob turned all the way up I'm only getting the depth of effect that I should be hearing at 50%.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Have a few questions regarding component choices in the Uber doc.:
1. D5&6 - Why the choice of 1N914 silicon diodes, forward voltage?
2. Why 1.5K for R6&9 cathode resistors?
3. Why 1uf for cathode bypass caps?

I would like to purchase a couple of 6111 tubes to go along with 2 of the Uber Tuber boards. How would I go about doing that? There doesn't seem to be an option for that on the Shop page.

Thanks all for those links! I'm in US so extra special thanks BrianS - I'll be adding Cabintech to my ever growing list of vendors that are supplying my DIY addiction!

Anyone know a vendor that carries the XVive VTL5C3 photocoupler for a reasonable price? Smallbear is out! 

Thanks Brian!