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Messages - Boom

#31
General Questions / Re: Cap tolerance (Sunking)
August 06, 2010, 07:50:09 PM
Quote from: madbean on August 05, 2010, 11:30:06 PM
You could put a 100pf and 47pf resp. in parallel with each to get them closer. Personally, I never check cap tolerances....I don't think my DMM even has the capability.

That´s a very good idea. Thanks Brian

Quote from: Haberdasher on August 05, 2010, 11:35:56 PM
Out of curiosity, where did you buy the mica caps that were too big?

I got them from www.banzaimusic.com (Berlin, Germany)

Normally they´re just fine (I´ve just them on lots of pedals) and Banzai has them a little bit smaller as well, but on a tight board like this, there is just not enough room.

If you´re in Europe, you should check them out, they have a large slection of parts. Of course they ship worldwide, but I think the EURO vs USD would make them quite expensive for you guys in the US.
#32
General Questions / Cap tolerance (Sunking)
August 05, 2010, 08:39:39 PM
Hey Guys,

I was just about to solder in the 820pf and 390pf ceramic caps I got today to replace the SilverMica ones (they were just way too big...)

Now I'm hesitant though...the 820pf measured as 696pf and the 390pf as 366pf.
Now, with the tolerance of my DMM (+/- 5%+5) it could actually be that they're off even more.

Should I hold off, and buy some new ones, or just try it ?

Of course, just knowing they're off will make me believe something is not right when I play with it.... :-\

#33
General Questions / Re: Alternate switch wiring?
July 09, 2010, 10:39:30 AM
You could, but I don't see the advantage. Only one disadvantage; your board input will not be grounded when in bypass.
#34
General Questions / 392K, 422K resistors
July 06, 2010, 07:37:08 PM
Hi,

I´m trying to get everything together for a sunking build, but am having trouble finding the 422K and 392K resistors.
Not one of my usual suppliers carry those...

Can anyone please direct me to someone who stocks these (preferably in europe) ?

thanks
#35
Requests / Re: Sub-mini tube amps
July 06, 2010, 05:46:57 PM
Have anyone ordering a board for such a project confirm reading a disclaimer before finalizing an order....
#36
Tech Help - Projects Page / Re: Sunking C8 and C13
July 06, 2010, 05:19:54 PM
Mica it is then !
Thanks guys
#37
Tech Help - Projects Page / Re: Sunking C8 and C13
July 06, 2010, 03:51:26 PM
Quote from: oldhousescott on July 06, 2010, 03:39:54 PM
Well, they do shape the high frequency response for those two opamp gain stages

Thanks, I didn't know that.
#38
Tech Help - Projects Page / Sunking C8 and C13
July 06, 2010, 01:56:37 PM
Hi,

I'm the kind of guy that likes to use silver mica caps for when possible for anything directly tone related. But I was looking at the sunking schematic, and to the best of my knowledge, it seems it would be a waste to use silver mica for C8 and C13....wouldn't it ?
#39
Requests / Re: Sub-mini tube amps
July 05, 2010, 04:11:52 PM
Yes please !

If no one else is interested, i'll promise i'll order enough to justify a startup !
#40
Tech Help - Projects Page / Re: Jacks wiring
June 20, 2010, 09:47:37 AM
Hi,

the Sleeve of the input jack doesn´t need any connection to ground through a wire since it is already physically grounded to the enclosure. It´s just an extra feature to save battery-life. As soon as you pull out the input cable , the battery will be disconnected from the circuit. When you connect your guitar to the input, it will short the Ring to Sleeve, and thus supply the circuit with power from the battery.


You could just use a mono jack if you´re not planning on using batteries.
#41
Tech Help - Projects Page / Re: Sunking IC3....
June 14, 2010, 06:09:19 PM
Great, thanks guys.

Now that I know that they´ll both be ok, I´m gonna check what the real difference between those is. The LTC1044 is about TRIPLE the price of the IC7660S !
#42
Tech Help - Projects Page / Sunking IC3....
June 14, 2010, 09:06:17 AM
Hi,

does anyone know if IC3 can be subbed for a IC7660S ? I can only get that one and the LTC1044, which I know is compatible.

Thanks
#43
Hey,

when I rebuild my BYOC Large Beaver (Big Muff Pi) to Violet Ram´s Head specs, I found this post on the BYOC forum very informative.

http://www.buildyourownclone.com/board/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=6006

He also writes about the transistor gain in each spot. Maybe this can help you out.

Is it ok to link to other content here, Brian ?

I took my schematic from here:

http://www.pisotones.com/BigMuffPi/psst/BMP_versions.htm

And this guy has some nice info as well:

http://rkerkhof.ruhosting.nl/Taas/Mods/Big%20Muff.htm
#44
Nothing at all when on ?

I would start by checking the stompbox wiring, making sure the effect in and out leads aren't shorting out anywhere. Be aware that they can also short out to the lid of the enclosure if you have the switch screwed down too low.

If that's not it, I usually trace the signal path on the board under a magnifiyng glass to check for solder bridges  shorting it to ground. It helps to color the trace on a printout of the pdf (board and schematic). This makes tracing it easier and creates an understanding of how the circuit works. (for me anyway)

Is th IC sitting firmly and correctly in it's socket and getting power ?

Good luck
#45
How soon do you need those 2n5089´s ?

I beleive I have a couple of those. If not, I´m ordering stuff locally this week anyway (The Netherlands). I´ll have it one day after ordering, and would be happy to order 4 of those and pop them in the mail for you.

I won´t get back home until sunday though, so keep that in mind...