Almost didn't post this one because.. WTF.
Second stock value green Sovtek era Muff (yeah that's what I'm calling it now, at least today) I've built recently. Sounds awesome on bass and just so-so on guitar. The first is a surprise gift fro an old friend in the states who helped me out recently and is on it's way to him now or I would post it too. Used BC549C's in both and really like the sound. I tried a bunch of different combinations of things from the coda article (linked below) but landed on those as they sounded the best to my ear. They also seemed appropriate as I bought them locally last year, the artwork is a nod to where that was.
https://www.coda-effects.com/2015/11/big-muff-mods-and-tweaks.html
I think I recently described how it sounds on bass as being the sound of a van full of punk rockers driving through the wall of your living room. So completely awesome.
I used to not like this particular flavor of Muff, but I had also not played one since they were new. And then it was with a Strat through a Fender solid state. Didn't realize until I was testing the one I made for my friend that the magic happens when it is not at all cranked. With the tone between 1 and three and the sustain between noon and two this thing just destroys on bass. If you dime the sustain it gets really thin and shrill sounding. Once I tried it on bass I knew I had to make myself one.
This one is built on Vero using the layout from Carcharias Effects (who seems like a really cool guy).
https://carchariaseffects.com/post/big-muff-pi/
The guts are okay, not my best not my worst. I could've done better but I felt like finishing this one last night.
Cheers
(p.s. has the photo posting stuff changed. I've been having a difficult time with it lately)
here is the other pic
Man, that looks fanytastic. I use mine on bass for playing old Black Sabbath tunes. It is killer. You're right though, it's just ok for guitar.
Love the artwork and your nomenclature for the circuit. How'd you print the faceplate? Separate prints or do you have a dual extruder?
Looks great! I have yet to pull off a strip board build ::)
Sharp, very cool art work! How are you attaching it to the enclosure?
dave
Thanks for the kind words guys!
Quote from: storyboardist on February 24, 2022, 06:35:45 PM
Love the artwork and your nomenclature for the circuit. How'd you print the faceplate? Separate prints or do you have a dual extruder?
Neither actually. I have an Ender 3, so nothing to fancy. There is a feature in Acura called pause at height (under modify g-code). Tell it what level to pause at (by checking the preview) and to keep the nozzle warm while it's paused and you can just switch out the filament for a different color.
It takes a little practice and usually there is a noticeable artifact when it starts printing again (look at the e in tone), but it's a very cool effect.
I usually aim for a three layer base and three layers with the color, depending on how much there is.
You also need to push all the excess of the first color out before you start the print again.
Quote from: davent on February 24, 2022, 07:46:49 PM
Sharp, very cool art work! How are you attaching it to the enclosure?
dave
I just use the nuts from the switch and pots to hold it in place. I'd find a better solution but since these are just for me I'm not worried about it.
As far as the artwork, I actually found it on thingiverse, which is a cool resource for open source 3d printer designs.
The Trident in the middle is a national symbol for Ukraine btw, and the design is very similar to a lot of their folk art.
Quote from: matmosphere on February 24, 2022, 08:19:03 PM
Thanks for the kind words guys!
Quote from: storyboardist on February 24, 2022, 06:35:45 PM
Love the artwork and your nomenclature for the circuit. How'd you print the faceplate? Separate prints or do you have a dual extruder?
Neither actually. I have an Ender 3, so nothing to fancy. There is a feature in Acura called pause at height (under modify g-code). Tell it what level to pause at (by checking the preview) and to keep the nozzle warm while it's paused and you can just switch out the filament for a different color.
It takes a little practice and usually there is a noticeable artifact when it starts printing again (look at the e in tone), but it's a very cool effect.
I usually aim for a three layer base and three layers with the color, depending on how much there is.
You also need to push all the excess of the first color out before you start the print again.
Quote from: davent on February 24, 2022, 07:46:49 PM
Sharp, very cool art work! How are you attaching it to the enclosure?
dave
I just use the nuts from the switch and pots to hold it in place. I'd find a better solution but since these are just for me I'm not worried about it.
As far as the artwork, I actually found it on thingiverse, which is a cool resource for open source 3d printer designs.
The Trident in the middle is a national symbol for Ukraine btw, and the design is very similar to a lot of their folk art.
Okay i can see now, hadn't realized it was a faceplate, thought the yellow parts were attached directly to the enclosure. Very nicely done!
Aside... last night bought an 'olden' camera lens from someone in the Ukraine.
Very clever with the faceplate. Looks a treat, congrats :)
Nice MuFF!
Agree, green sovtek awesome on bass. For guitar, prefer tri dirty booster spec, but sometimes use Ram Head spec. Unfortunately, stacked with TS. :(