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That looks intense and awesome. Where are you putting that ditto in the chain?

schematics for every project can be viewed directly from the Projects Page.

Good idea, surprising how many times a quick glance at just the schematic is needed.

It's the first thing I look at myself for anyone's project. Long overdue here.

Should I have another button to view just the pdf docs, too? Is that convenient instead of having to d/l the zip with the doc and drill file, then unzip before you even see the doc?

If that's an option then that would be great. Just a personal thing, but I'd much rather click to open a pdf than download a zip file.

I put a single buffer before the volume pot. Sweep is still good. There's post in my blog about it. https://prentisseffects.blogspot.com/2017/01/ernie-ball-vp-jr-tone-suck-mod.html

It doesn't use a dual buffer but it works just as well. This is the method I've seen in a bunch of modded Ernie Ball VPs that I've fixed strings for.

That's an awesome looking build. The fact that you crammed all of that in there with top mount jacks is astonishing.

Well done sir. Those look awesome. How do all of the DIP switches in the EP pre work? I know you mentioned what one did (with the 10uF cap). But what are the others for? Also, what blend circuit did you use for the Honey Bee? I'd be interested in giving that setup a go myself.

I have also found these are uncommon but very useful.

That sounds really useful. Do you have a schematic for those by chance?

There's really no reason not to put them in. I believe it's just part of the switching setup. They shouldn't have a big impact on tone. They aren't in the schematic in the documentation though. From looking elsewhere it looks like they have something to do with the output section (probably impedance or something with preventing switch popping, total guess there). If it's working and you like the tone though then I'd leave it as is.

Edit: I checked Coda's breakdown of the circuit and feel slightly justified. He also says he has no idea what those resistors are for.

I have a bunch of these kinds of things on my blog.

Friedman BE-OD - https://prentisseffects.blogspot.com/2018/01/thermionic-distortion-friedman-be-od.html
JHS Andy Timmons (MI Audio Crunchbox, etc.) - https://prentisseffects.blogspot.com/2017/06/madbean-turnabout-jhs-mi-audio-crunchbox.html

Couple of mods
Ernie Ball VP Mod (impedance discussion) - https://prentisseffects.blogspot.com/2017/01/ernie-ball-vp-jr-tone-suck-mod.html
Joyo Ultimate Drive (Freekish Blues mod) - https://prentisseffects.blogspot.com/2017/01/joyo-ultimate-drive-mod.html

Very cool! Any particular reason you didn't add the resistors on the switch board?

I have a build procedure tutorial. It's nothing ground breaking but it's got a couple of helpful tips. I'm gonna add little blurb to it about using sockets to hold your wires while doing your offboard wiring.

https://prentisseffects.blogspot.com/2017/06/getting-started-build-procedure.html

I suppose my first and only question would be...

How old is your laundry basket that you need to weld it to fix it? 

Standard steel laundry basket.  You know:



Not old, and welding would have actually been a bad choice of repair method, unless JB Weld counts.     It's actually one of those wire frame with canvas bag things, sort of like this:

Thanks for clarifying. I was really curious about this too.

I have a couple of thoughts but some questions really would stem from seeing the space.

• How you organize parts?
• Where various tools are kept and why?
• Do you change anything when building, boxing, and testing?
• Most useful tools
• Build tips (things like how you solder in sockets and the like)

I know a couple of those things may be in build docs and such.
TLDR; How did you arrange things to simplify your life?

I agree with aion about the space issue for SPSJ, you really need some space between the knobs on one row of pedals and the switches on another row (or the back row needs a riser). I personally like my stuff to be TPTJ because it lets me run power and cables really easily. Plus I don't need as much board space. I built a massive pedalboard a few years ago to account for all my side mounted pedals, then I started making my stuff in a TPTJ configuration and I don't need half the space on that board anymore. So that means I can use a smaller board that's easier to carry.

I definitely agree that throwing 2 footswitches on a top mounted 125B is really close and easy to mess up. I can only handle single footswitch setups for a pedal of that size. I'm building a tap delay that may go into a 1590B so that I have a bit more space. But it will still be top mounted.

If it's using solid core wire then there could be a broken wire between the board and the switch. That would explain why you're hearing it when you shift it around. I just had something like that with a Morning Glory clone I made.

That is a hot looking wah. Well done sir.