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Hey, guys! I got really into building a few years back but was never any good at diagnostics when something was wrong. I have three or for completed projects that need (what I hoping will be) some simple tweaks to get them up and running. Any diagnostic geniuses out there that would want to take on the challenge of getting these pedals running?

I have three pedals laying around that are boxed but don't rock. I HATE troubleshooting. Is there anyone here that just LOVES troubleshooting and feels like helping a brother out? Just a couple ODs and a boost.

Does anyone have any links to good instructions for adding a buffer to volume pedals?

This is an old one I stuck aside because I didn't wanna do the problem solving.  Rocked it before I boxed it.  Bypass works, LED works, no volume when I turn up the gain.  I'm wondering if my ground job just blows?

I've searched the internet and haven't found a clear tut on reboxing a Boss pedal with a new switch.  Anyone know of a good link?

What can I do to the Greenbean to get it to sound pretty close to Madbeans old Neutrino board?

I built this as an AUX switch for my Eventide Space and now I'm thinking it would be cool to add another jack to use one switch as a tap tempo for BOTH my Space and Timefactor.  Any ideas on how I would do that?

http://www.diyguitarist.com/Schematics/FS3X-Wiring.pdf

I'd like to build something that I could get power from my Voodoo Lab Pedal Power Plus 2 and from this new build have the correct current/power to power a Eventide Timefactor and Space.  Who is up to the challenge to design this for me?

My Slow Loris is fabbed up but the clipping switch is acting screwy.  In the up position...no signal.  The middle position fades in when switched there from up or down but still sounds crackly, like it shorting out.  The down position...no signal.

Here's my big delimma.  I've battled with a strange and painful rash for the past two years and my doctors have narrowed it down to me being allergic to lead solder fumes.  I've been working with silver solder lately and haven't had a reaction...yet.  This build was fabbed using lead solder.  

I'm going to brave desoldering it...but if I start breaking out again I may have to hit someone here up to help me out.  If anyone would be willing please let me know.  

I recieved a double sided board from Music PCB and holes for a 2n4001 are too small to accept the leds.  Should I just drill it out?

I have a pot (that I didn't try to turn before soldering into place) that is very tough to turn and, at certain points, it takes shear force to turn past those points BUT, despite it's difficult to rotate, the pot still does it's function perfectly.  It has a great sweep.  Is there a way to fix this or is it just a remove and replace?

What could I do to make the volume pot more controlable on the Zombii.  Right now unity gain is just above 7:00 o'clock with "off" being at 7:00 o'clock.  I'd like to get unity closer to noon.

Here's a Yellow Shark I just wrapped up.  I've had the board fabbed for ever.  I just now got to the build though.

This was a fun build.  I experienced my first burnt out LED durning this build.  The guy I built it for designed the artwork and color scheme.  The LEDs are UV which is kinda cool.

Okay...I'm using three of DuctTapeRiot's lighted pot boards in conjuction with gtr2's 3PDT boards.  I thought I would hook one up and test it but I'm not getting the LED to light.  The LED will not light up.  Since the pot boards have a CLR I put a jumper over the CLR on the 3PDT PCB.  I'm getting a constant 9.22V from the power jack to the lighted pot regardless of the position of the footswitch.  If you click the switch on or off it remain 9.22V.  Bad switch maybe?

If I want to put an LED on a switch like the octave switch on a Wolfshirt would I just run a wire from the octave side of the switch to the LED's anode or would I need a CLR in between the switch and the anode?  I'm wanting the LED to indicate the octave being on.

It is well know that the Fuzz Factory needs to be #1 in the chain.  Has anyone ever tried putting this pickup simulator in front of a Fuzz Factory circuit?  If so, how did it work for you.  If you haven't, does it seem reasonable that it might help the impedance problems that the Fuzz Factory experiences. 

http://www.muzique.com/lab/pickups.htm

This is the second time I've had this problem but first time I've addressed it.  Once it was happening on the LED clipping side of a Egodriver and now it's happening with a Hot Cake clone.

Everything sounds PERFECT but if I let a note resound, right at the very end of the sustain it seems to quickly fizzle out with a crackle that's not very musical.  Everything else sounds PERFECT.  No scratchiness, no crackling, everything sounds good but the final half second of a sustained note.  Any ideas?

My last couple builds have been getting a bit of radio interference.  What can I do to ensure this isn't a problem.  I use solid core wire and parts from Mammoth, Small Bear, PPP, Mouser, etc.

Another Zombii.  What do you guys think of the knobs?  I'm kinda thinking I should go all black...