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So, I'm working on building a Bassdrive clone, which is almost the exact same circuit as the Fulldrive, save 4 caps. I've built a Bassdrive clone before using a layout from freestompboxes.org. However, after re-visiting this project I have noticed that the layout I used didn't have a 1K resistor (R2 in the schematic below) in the input buffer that the deadringer has.

My question is, what is the purpose of this resistor and would not including it yield any noticeable difference(s)? Here's the schematic which has been altered for the Bassdrive values (not by me):

Quick question regarding the curve of a pot being used as a variable resistor (as opposed to a voltage divider). Does the curve matter in regard to effectiveness? Or, does the curve simply determine the "feel" of the pot. I've read on some posts (God knows where in the vastness of the internet) that using an incorrect pot taper will yield a pot that doesn't work correctly. Is that only the case for voltage dividers?

So, I'm thinking of building a splitter/mixer to blend my bass with my various distortion pedals. I'm looking at this JFET Parallel looper- http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2010/11/jfet-parallel-looper.html
My question is- if I don't include a bypass switch for the blender, will I experience a potential volume drop when the blended effect is disengaged? For example, say I'm blending my clean signal with a fuzz, with the fuzz at unity. When disengaging the fuzz circuit, while still having the blend circuit running, will could there be a volume drop?

So, I want to add a diode switch to my Runt that's like the one on the Slow Loris. I want to at least be able to switch between stock diodes (1N914) and no diodes at all. I have a 2PDT so being able to switch between LED's too wouldn't be that bad (but LED's aren't a necessity). My question is- Can I make this work using a 2PDT On-On-On switch? If so, how do I wire the switch exactly? If not, how can I accomplish my goal?

On another note, if I just wanted to go no diodes (as in, no switch either), do I just put jumpers in place of the 1N914s?

I also have an SPDT On-On switch

So, I'm wondering if one could put a Road Rage in a 1590LB box with a DC in and a DC out to act as an external voltage doubler (18v). The idea is one could use it with a regular 9v power supply (like a Visual Sound 1Spot) and power their 18v pedals with it, without having to get a different power supply. Do able? I'm thinking yes, I just want to be sure.

So, I built up a faultline a while back. Just got around to testing it out and have found that there's a fair amount of high pitched hum to it. not overbearing like with some grounding issues, but more resembling feedback-type sounds. It also crackles some what, but intermittently. Sort of like the rhythm of a dial-up connection. Any ideas what could be going on here? Everything else works fine. I'm thinking this problem might be transistor related as there are so many of them in this particular circuit. Also, I should note that all of my transistors are socketed.

So, I want to incorporate the dry out on my
Micro POG into my pedalboard setup. Basically, it has an effect out and a dry out. I want to send my dry signal to my distortions and then blend the effect out from the POG with the post-distortion dry signal. Make sense? I need help in figuring out how to do this.

So, I've been reading up on tapering resistors in: http://www.geofex.com/article_folders/potsecrets/potscret.htm
I'm interested in turning a Linear wah potentiometer into something resembling a A25K pot. Can this be accomplished via tapering resistors? It seems to me like it is possible, but I could be wrong. The techy-ness of that article is hard for me to understand at certain points. If it will work, what value wah pot should I be looking at getting and what value resistor?

So, I'm working on a Faultline build right now, with the intention of running it at 18v. So, I'm also building a Roadrage to accomplish this. My question is, for running it at 18v, will 1N4001s and/or 1N914s still be good alternatives to the 1N5817 listed in the project doc for the roadrage? Or perhaps even 1N5818s? Any one of those 3 will be easier for me to get my hands on than the 1N5817. Thanks!

So, I'm working on this super deluxe overdrive pedal. The idea is to have selectable mid-hump frequencies, selectable diode clipping and selectable opamps. My question is regarding stacking and switching opamps. Basically I've taken my notes from Beavis audio's screamer lab- http://www.beavisaudio.com/projects/ScreamerLab/
1.) should the switches be on-off-on, on-on-on, or on-on switches?
2.) does this even work? I've read somewhere that he never got his stacked opamps to switch properly. Is the logic sound?
3.) will it be fine to joint all three pin1's together and all three pin7's together on 2 strips of veroboard? I'd like to do that instead of having a hot mess of wires soldered together. The joint I'm talking about is in between all the switches and the PCB.
Here's a visual:

I have an old v4 slambox PCB that I'm putting together for a friend. My question is, if I were to omit the LED on the PCB and instead wire it up with the switch, can I just omit it from the PCB without doing anything further? Or would there be some alternate wiring I would have to do? My thinking is that I can just omit it without any problems, I just want to be sure.

So the Cave Dweller is described as a "medium-fi" delay. Is there any way to make it more hifi like a digital delay? Thanks

I'm looking for something like this that's available in the US: http://www.musikding.de/Active-parts/Diodes/LED/LED-Bezel-5mm/LED-Bezel-5mm-chrome-outside-reflector::139.html

I just did a shipping estimate and it would be ~42 EUROS to ship to the US!

I know that Jameco has a similar pre-assembled LED w/ bezel that I may be able to just use the bezel from, but I'm fairly sure that they're 3mm only and I'm looking for something that will fit a 5mm. Also, I'd like it to just be the bezel (not an LED + bezel assembly) and fairly inexpensive.

So, I built a friend a green bean. I just swapped the diodes in it. Originally I had all germanium diodes, everything worked fine. I swaped them for BAT41s for D4 & D5, kept geraniums for D3 & D2, and put a 1N914 in for D1. Now there is a high pitched buzz/hum/ringing that resembles the buzz of a mosquito. It worsens when I turn the tone up and flick the bright switch on. I can stop the noise by touching my guitar strings or by touching one of the pots on the pedal. This sounds like a grounding issue to me. Only trouble is, I don't know how to approach finding the source of the problem.
One note: I mangled up the solder pads for the cathode of D1. It's possible that it is not properly soldered to the board.

If you wanted to beef up the structural integrity of a pedal, how would you do it?

My first thoughts- metal footswitch washers, metal knobs, and mounting the circuit board to the enclosure. Thoughts?

Directing this thread over to the Tech help forum now that I know what the voice knob actually does and that mine does not work. I've swapped out the pot, both tested pots function on their own, but don't appear to do anything in the circuit. The rest of the pedal is fine, I just don't get anything out of the voice knob. Could someone clue me in as to what might be causing the problem?

Just built this fella and I really can't tell what the voice knob does. I've heard it's fairly interactive, so I've spent a lot of time with different settings. Still nothing. I've also heard that its change is subtle, but I almost feel as if I'm getting no change out of it. Can someone learn me?

Just built the Serendipity and everything works and sounds great, except for a large amount of hiss when the effect is engaged. This his is made exponentially worse when any of the pots are turned up past noon. I've tried several different ICs and still the same problem. I'm using a JRC4558D

So, my friend shot a pedal idea at me. I'm basically putting a Slambox and a Glitterattii in the same box. He wants individual bypass for each effect, and also a master bypass (so one could turn both effects on without affecting the clean signal and then kick them both on without having to stomp 2 switches).

I've seen drawings for how to wire two effects together, but how should I do it with 3 switches? Thanks!

So, I'm in the middle of implementing a light plate for one of my enclosures and I'm using 3 violet LEDs from Pedal Parts Plus. I'm using an LED calculator online to try to figure out how I can make them as bright as possible. It gave me two results for my LED array. Which one of these would be brighter? Do the different arrangements even make a difference?
I used 3.3 as the forward voltage.