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Good point. Sorry. I run a MIM Telecaster with bill lawrence keystones into a Vox AC15C1 (the new one with the greenback). I have an A/B that I use for my normal/top boost. and I also run a Boss CS-3 compressor with wamplers fat body mod or my behringer dynacomp clone. and a BBE two timer delay. i was leaning towards the big muff for that dinosaur jr sound.

So after I complete my egodriver and quasar, which are going much slower than expected because I havent figured out my egodrivers problem yet, i need a new project. Since my board will soon contain my Timmy, OCD (ego), TS808(landgraff dynamic od clone), and the quasar (RC Booster), I'm curious what im missing. Im thinking im  gonna go with a chunk chunk (dr. boogie) or mudbunny (big muff (rams head)). my other thoughts are a slow loris (rat) or a krankosauraus.

The egodriver really covered a lot of ground for me as far as higher gain settings go. that thing can crank and still come out very clear. so shall I go fuzz? im definitely ordering my next board from madbean. i etched my own for my OCD and quasar and it was just not worth the time. heh.

Compared voltages to the working OCD and I'm just slightly low now. Instead of 4.37, i'm getting 4.30. I assume this is fine as the tolerance is quite low there. When testing, I noticed that really what didnt seem to be working was the Drive control. The level, although a little low, was at least controllable. The tone seemed to work as well as the HP switch. But the drive didnt change a thing, so i assume this is my problem. the pot tested to about 900K, not ideal, but close enough i suppose.

I was also thinking it may be R13 as the voltage coming in was like 8.51, just slightly lower than the working one. Will the voltage on pin8 greatly affect the output if its just slightly off?

i  checked all the transistors and they seem fine. getting the same 4.30v on all the legs. i pulled em out and tested em and they seemed fine. trimmed em down a little more, and then reseated them and still nothing.

is there something quite obvious that im missing here?

alright well i gave up and i swapped the reversed controls. and then after i did that i got proper readings. still doesnt work though. i left the transistors in and when i was resoldering so i think i fried em, or they have been my problem the whole time. not sure. i have them socketed but i wasnt thinking when i soldered em.

im getting very low output. i swapped the IC for a working one, but it didnt do anything.

i have 10k readings for both r14 and r15, but im getting 0.62v on the junction. the interesting part is that i get around 8.8 from r15 on the working board from ground. could a pot be affecting that value for any reason?

OK. Ill recheck those ones. I build both of the pedals side by side, doing one r11, then the ohters r11, etc... Maybe they shorted or something.

I also have a little bit of a paste buildup on the boards from my rosin flux. I'm going to try to clean that up tonight with some alcohol to see if maybe that is causing some unwanted conductance in the circuit.

So apparently I wired 1 and 3 reversed because my controls are working backwards. wooops. Now I am having issues with my second build. here are the voltages from both of my builds, the first one not working, the second one is, do they look right? i was getting a bit of noise on the working one (probably the TL082), but no signal at all on the second one

1: 4.37
2: 4.37
3: 4.11
4: 0
5: 4.36
6: 4.38
7: 4.38
8: 8.73

1: 6.92
2: 0
3: 0.59
4: 0
5: 0.15
6: 7.86
7: 7.97
8: 8.51

Obviously something is wrong. I've traced everything. all my values are good. i resoldered a couple connections I was unsure about.

OK. Maybe ill use a 2k2 or something. my buddy plays a lot of outdoor gigs and wants his "as bright as possible"

That's oxidation. It's normal. If you've already completed soldering it's not a big deal. If you still have areas to solder you should try to clean the pads a little with brillo or steel wool. Very carefully clean those areas afterward with a tiny bit of Acetone. You'll want to be careful to avoid damaging any components!

I just have all my wires and the diodes. which i forgot to do. so just use a q-tip or something with acetone after a steel wool scrub?

fantastic. thanks for the quick reply. I'll just leave it in. i have a bag of 100 4k7s so its not an issue or reserving one. itll be more of a hassle to get it out then anything. I use a guitarpcb 3pdt board so I just use their wiring scheme.

What's the brightest I could probably use without blowing the LED, like a 1k?

I have 4 boards that I etched, two OCDs and two Quasars. I have them populated and i didnt get around to them for a while and now that I'm back on them, the copper has turned a bit green. I dont know if I've etched them too long, or what. I cleaned them with a lot of acetone after etching, so the reaction should stop. Should I use a brillo pad and then clear coat it with some lacquer once I'm all wired up and working?

Or just leave it be.

Any suggestions? I'll try to add pics when I get home from work tonight.

Also, if not using onboard LED and switch, should i take out R12 (4k7) or just leave it open? or ground out the end of it? I guess if anything it just pulls a little more current (negligible)?

Is there a reason Why I still have to run a third wire to the gain pot when its not connected to anything on the board? Just an isolated hole in the pad? The reason I ask is because I etched my own board and the pad got screwed up so its essentially missing, but I don't really see any value in it.

alright thanks! i just wanted to make sure i didnt need to waste any more time or money to order something new. i gotta add the caps tonight if i have time then hopefully this weekend i'll get around to wiring the rest of them up.

just to clarify, the LED on board can be negated if I am using a 3pdt with offboard lighting correct? same with the sw spot on the boards? only concerened with gnd, in and out?

So I started my builds and I etched the v3 quasar board. I ordered all my parts, including the 2n5088. I'm planning on making an RC boost so the new board didnt seem to be much of an improvement, except I noticed there was the 2sc1815 now. I have the transistors socketed, so its probably not a big deal. But really I was just wondering if they will make much of a difference?