2N3565 for LaVache

[Marv Mod]

Hi there! I'm getting ready to build the LaVache for my second build but have a query about how to orient the 2N3565 correctly. The one I've got has no flattened edge. I've attached a couple of pics if anyone can lend a helping hand? I'm not sure who the manufacturer is so I can get a data sheet - their logo is like two 'C' shapes intertwined to make what looks like an 'S' (see second pic).
I could go ahead and wire it up then reverse it if it doesn't work but I'm worried about blowing anything in the circuit.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Cheers, Jeremy

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[bigmufffuzzwizz]

It's gotta be the TO-106 package type. My guess is the left pin is 1=E 2=B 3=C. That seems to be the standard for this design AFAIK. If you have a multimeter you can verify that Base is in the middle by testing the 2 diodes separately. But that won't tell you which is Emitter or Collector. You might just have to try it unless someone else who really knows can chime in! 
http://www.dl7avf.info/charts/outlines/to106a.gif

[k.rock!]

It's gotta be the TO-106 package type. My guess is the left pin is 1=E 2=B 3=C. That seems to be the standard for this design AFAIK. If you have a multimeter you can verify that Base is in the middle by testing the 2 diodes separately. But that won't tell you which is Emitter or Collector. You might just have to try it unless someone else who really knows can chime in!  
http://www.dl7avf.info/charts/outlines/to106a.gif

I think the B-E forward voltage would be slightly higher than the B-C (but just by a few millivolts)

Place the positive lead on the base (assume it's the center) and with the black lead measure the drop on the other leads.

Something you can do as well, is check the resistance the same way. B-C would have slightly less resistance than B-E.

If I screwed up somewhere in this post, anyone feel free to correct me 

Good luck!

-Kaleb

[Marv Mod]

BigMuff, Kaleb - you stars! I did the diode test on my DMM and found that the middle pin was the base. Following Kaleb's idea I measured a slight voltage difference between B-E and B-C which matched the layout BigMuff provided. Thanks so much guys!

One last question, if I had wired the transistor back-to-front, would it have damaged it or any other part of the circuit? Maybe I should get some sockets to make this process easier!
Cheers, Jeremy

[cjkbug]

the flat side faces the emitter.

[stecykmi]

BigMuff, Kaleb - you stars! I did the diode test on my DMM and found that the middle pin was the base. Following Kaleb's idea I measured a slight voltage difference between B-E and B-C which matched the layout BigMuff provided. Thanks so much guys!

One last question, if I had wired the transistor back-to-front, would it have damaged it or any other part of the circuit? Maybe I should get some sockets to make this process easier!
Cheers, Jeremy

very unlikely that you'll damage anything. most like it won't work probably, or won't work at all.

[bigmufffuzzwizz]

The only transistor I've actually fried so far has been one unlucky 2n2222. For some reason when I had it backwards it definitely fried it, but the layout I followed was wrong and I believe there was too much voltage on the tranny? I can understand you being wary of frying them, especially with a not so common part like that. Definitely socket it, http://www.taydaelectronics.com/servlet/the-1796/30-Pin-DIP-SIP/Detail
Gotta try some of these in a muff one day!