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Does turning on something like a true bypass overdrive buffer your signal? Or is it still useful to have a buffer in a long chain? I'm curious if the signal degradation only happens when everything is turned off, assuming all of your pedals are true bypass.

I just built the Cresent too (and I'm not going to post pics after seeing yours...). Fabulous pedal, but I added the DX1-4 diodes. It's supposed to be a big gainier and more compressed that way (which it probably didn't need). Still sounds great, but I'm wondering how it sounds now with the LEDs doing the clipping instead. Did you try it both ways?

Thanks Jason. This did the trick!

OK, thanks for the instruction. So if R9 is already on the main board (which is has been all along), then all I need to do is add a wire from L on the main board to the LED that connects to ground on the 3PDT board?

I'm still confused though as to why this happened. Why does adding a breakout board on the switch cause the LED on the main board to stop functioning? The LED on the main board already had a path to ground or it wouldn't have worked in the first place, right? So adding the 3PDT board disrupts that path somehow?

Do I need to add the CLR to the breakout board as well then? I didn't add it on either board since I was using the LED pads on the main board.

And sorry for the noob question, but how do I test for the one that grounds? I did a quick search and most of the hits were about testing for ground in home wiring or with a car battery. I have a multimeter but I'm not sure what reading I'm looking for.

Hi all. I've now built two Moar ODs and the LEDs aren't working on either one. Here's the story...

I build the first one as my first ever build. Everything worked, including the LED which was soldered to the board. I build it according the build docs, including the switch wiring.

I then build a second one, but this time used this 3PDT breakout to wire the switch (http://www.rullywow.com/product/3pdtv3-1a/). When I finished, the pedal worked perfectly except that the LED didn't function. I figured I had just made a mistake and did a bad solder on the LED and decided to live with it.

So now tonight, I went back to the original pedal with the working LED and moved it to a new enclosure with a new switch and new jacks (my work was very sloppy the first time and the jacks and switch were scratchy. When I moved it, I wired up the new jack using this type of 3PDT breakout board (http://www.bitcheslovemyswitches.com/#!/PCBs/c/10252302/offset=0&sort=normal). I turned it on and the pedal works fine, but now the LED that used to work perfectly no longer functions!

So now I'm stumped. Do these 3PDT breakout boards screw up the LED function on the main board since they have their own pads for a LED? I can't see why one would affect the other, but it's the only thing I can think of. Ideas?

Hey guys. I'd like to build something along the lines of an Xotic SP Compressor or Wampler Ego. I know the FourOne from Madbean has a blend like those two, but it's optical and I don't think the others are.

Anybody build the FourOne and willing to share their experiences? Anybody know of any other PCBs along the lines of the SP or Ego?

It's finished and it works! Honestly, I'm blown away by the sound of this one. I've never played a King of Tone, but I was impressed by the YouTube clips I'd seen and wanted to give this a try. I wasn't sure how over hyped they were though, so I'm really pleased that it does indeed sound great. Thanks to all the helpful folks around here who have been willing to answer my noob questions along the way!



http://imgur.com/a/aAv9Q
http://imgur.com/a/g7DnD

Hi guys. I'm starting a build on one of these (http://www.rullywow.com/product/queenofbone2/) and I think it would be really nice to be able to change the clipping settings without having to take the back off to access the DIP switches.

Any bright ideas that a beginner could handle on how to make the switches accessible from the outside of the pedal? Is it possible to mount the DIP on the back side of the board (facing up along with the pots) so that I could drill a hole and access them that way? Or mount some other kind of switch that would accomplish the same thing?

As I mentioned, I'm a beginner, so I'm not sure if I'm totally off base with my thinking here. I've never wired a DIP before and I don't know if what I'm thinking is even possible or if the orientation has to be a certain way to make it work.

Am I alone in finding this super annoying?

Maybe everybody else takes readings to confirm everything? It was really annoying to have to verify all of the resistors, but I've also got different color LEDs with clear plastic that I can't tell apart. Urgh...

I just got my first order from Smallbear and none of the components were labeled. I've placed orders from Tayda and Mammoth in the past and everything came in baggies that were either stickered or hand written identifying the value of the part.

Does Smallbear always not label what they send you? It's huge pain to have to and identify everything in dozens of different small bags. 

Thanks!

[Does the voltage rating matter as long as it's above the voltage you'll be using?]

For my next build, I'm taking on the Queen of Bone 2 (http://www.rullywow.com/product/queenofbone2/).

The build docs don't specify the type of caps to use. For the electrolytics, I assumed that since this board has a charge pump to bump the voltage to 18V, that I couldn't use 16V caps. Does the voltage rating matter as long as it's above the voltage you'll be using? Some parts were out of stock on Smallbear, so I ended up ordering a few of these (http://smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com/electrolytic-radial-50v/) and a few of these (http://smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com/electrolytic-radial-35v-4-7-mf-1000-mf/).

Will there be any problems with using the 35V and 50V caps interchangeably as long as they're the correct capacitance value?

I've never done any voltage measurements and I'm not sure how. Do I use the multimeter between the anode and the ground or the positive?

I used a 6.8k CLR on the breakout board, so what voltage should I be getting for the LED with that?

5 mm green LEDs from Radio Shack. I forgot to order when I did the big parts order online.

I haven't taken the whole board out, but I'm not sure why that would make a difference. The strangest thing is that the LED worked when just touching it to the pads on the 3PDT breakout board, but when I connected that same LED with wires from those same pads, it no longer worked.