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I haven't built the Sagan Delay 2.x yet, but the 1.x had the same type of thing when you use an external modulation board.  I originally didn't have a switch to turn modulation on/off on the build but ended up replacing the drykill switch with a modulation on/off.

That said, you come up with some WACKY sounds when you turn on the modulation.  I'm not sure how to use them, but they're definitely unique.

I measured my GL5528s again in ambient daylight, then used a wooden covering to block out the light.  I stuck them into my breadboard then used a multimeter to test the resistance.  I was consistently getting 5k/300k light/dark readings. 

I also tried out some of the Tayda LDRs I ordered a few months ago and noticed that they were no where close to .5M dark.  They were more in the 200k range.

Do you all have a different method of testing LDR ranges when you do builds?  I generally don't test them but feel I need to start with every build like this going forward.

I used Tayda ones, I read Chris' documentation and went with that. You are covering them before testing them in the build aren't you?


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I am actually testing the LDRs that I have in my stash not in the build.  I couldn't figure out why I was getting little to no change in the effect from the Envelope even though the lights were working as they should, and I was only getting noticeable LFO effect with the Color cranked. 

I used GL5528s which should fall in line with the 10k/1M paramters.  Mine seem to be more like 100k/10Ms.  The Tayda KE10720s seem to be in the 10k/500k range. 

The Duelin' Herbies has been my proverbial Waterloo. I burned out a board trying to troubleshoot one this winter.  But since I drilled the enclosure (and it was a lot of frilling), I ordered a new board from Chris, hoping to get this one right. After some more troubleshooting, I finally got the LEDs functioning like they should. But I still got not envelope effect. So I measured the LDRs I had sourced (some GL5528s), and boy are they off. The values are supposed to be around 10k with light and 1M with dark, but these were going over 10M dark. I tested about a dozen of the ones I got and all were about the same.

So I'm interested how people source LDRs to ensure they are sent a part in the specs they are after. I either ordered them off of Amazon or eBay (probably the latter). Are there particular eBay dealers that are more reliable than others?

I'm already getting a broken Wah to turn into a 1M-B expression pedal for this build, so I may as well wire my own power supply too  .

It was the $11 in shipping that I was trying to avoid.  I'll keep looking through Amazon to see if I can find an adapter with the barrel on it.

For the DE Fx's Mutron Biphase project, I need an 18V AC power supply.  After trying to figure out the correct search terms, it appears the Ring doorbells use these:

https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Transformer-Doorbell-Tyrone-Compatible/dp/B081JQV8PL/ref=sr_1_12?dchild=1&keywords=18vac%2Btransformer&qid=1586884487&sr=8-12&th=1

However, they all come with leads exposed instead of an adapter.  When wiring an AC adapter, there's no ground/power connections.  You would just connect the two wires from a barrel adapter to the power supply and be done with it, correct?  I'm pretty sure this is correct but wanted to check before I ordered something that would fry my build.

I went ahead and made one.  If anyone else is looking, here it is!

Very clean.  The artwork looks like something you'd see on a commercial pedal.

I've made dozens of these. I take a piece of paper and trace the pcb and the potentiometer layout that is printed on the back of the board.

That works for waterslide if you're drilling a blank enclosure, but I generally put my drill points on an etch template so I need a digital file.  I can just measure it with a ruler and build my own template but I figured I'd reach out to see if someone had one first.

Does anyone have one?  I've had a populated board for a couple years that I never boxed.

How can you have "5 selections" with a 4 throw switch?

IDK.  DiabloChris had it working on one of his builds so I was trying to get it.  I ordered a 1p6t switch since I couldn't get it to work.

Thanks for the input everyone!  To be continued Saturday in the SIP build forum...

Ah, ok.  Thanks Chris!  I need to then use the A Terminal to do this, not the B I bet.  Let me try some various experiments with that.

EDIT:  Well, no dice.  I may try wiring pins 2-5 for my input, and wiring poles A & B together to be output.  I'm not sure though is that has some downstream effect though.

I ordered new ICs and transistors.  It worked, then it didn't, then it started working again .  One of the potential issues was the material I was using to level the PCB with the pots.  I think it was shorting something out. 

Regardless, it's working now!

I have a 3p4t switch that I want to wire for 5 different selections.

No Option
Option 1
Option 2
Option 3
Option 4

This is how I thought I could wire it.  I connected inputs to pins 5-8, and the output to Pole B.
4 - Off (nothing is wired here)
5 - Selection 1
6 - Selection 2
7 - Selection 3
8 - Selection 4

I thought that continuity for the B Pole would only happen for selection 5-8.  However, I noticed that for selection 4, continuity between the B pole and pin 8 is also selected.  Similarly, pin 4 has continuity to the B Pole in position 1, pin 5 has continuity in position 2, etc.  I'm using this switch:
https://www.taydaelectronics.com/electromechanical/switches-key-pad/rotary-switch/rotary-switch-3-pole-4-position-alpha-sr2612f.html

Should I order a 1p6t switch instead or is there a way to make this work with a 3p4t switch?