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Love this pedal. Built it to "Ultrastoner" specs.





For those with a keen eye: Yes, I did hook my switch ground to the 9v hole, but fixed it. I didn't retake the picture.

Ive never been a big fuzz user, but recently built an Ultrastoner (awesome circuit, btw), and I want it on my board. The problem is my usual tone uses boosts (SHO) and 18v overdrives (Kingslayer, RAH) and they put out a hot signal. Even at the front of the chainwher it sounds best, I need a way to get it up to the same level as my overdrive tone so I dont have to turn up my amp when I want to use the fuzz. Thats just not an option live. Since boosts dont sound right before or after in the chain, how can I fix this?

Building a Sharkfin, and can't find anyone that sells a 2M pcb mount linear pot.
Thanks!

I mean a plain old pdb for the switch.
No trimpots, no ic's, no CLR.
Just a plain pcb with holes for LED -, IN, OUT, and Ground, with the grounded lugs already linked.
More and more pcbs come with all that already. Just want something to make it look clean without adding the extra parts that I won't use.

Just building myself one of these (to Ultrastoner specs) and have a couple questions...

Am I understanding correctly that Cx and Cy are only used on the builds where they are labeled on the spreadsheet?

Are diodes 1-2 meant to be 1n914, and then D5-9 meant to be the other listed diode (1N4148), or vice versa? Or can they ALL be one or the other? I ask so that I don't make two switch positions sound the same.

Thanks!
Can't wait to get this rocking.

Still may need some tweaking, but it's almost there.
Went ahead and boxed it. I may live to regret it. 

I was just testing a Kingslayer build, and I had run out of 150n caps so I omitted C7. Now the fat switch rocks! Really, it gets FAT when I flip it now. My previous build of this had a barely noticeable difference. Is there any problem with me permanently omitting C7? Is it going to end up being to bassy for guitar at loud volume?

Having trouble right off the bat with my Pork Chop. I have the board populated, and I have input, output, +/- wires attached to test. When I only have the input/output connected, it passes clean signal, but as soon as I connect the ground, it goes silent. When I connect the 9v, nothing seems to happen. When I put my probe on the input with the 9v and ground connected, I get a dreadful deep buzz. It sounds almost synth like, but not in a good way. I've been inspecting the board for any bridges and have done some reflowing and scraping to make sure there aren't any, but this has not helped so far.

I also am not sure what the J1 and J2 holes are for on the pcb. Just need some advice on what to check next. Thanks!

Here's a couple I wrapped up recently.

My "Screamer" (Grean Bean):

I have got to get me some small washers for the switches.






The Royal Albert Hall (Vero):
A big thanks to Steven "TGP39" for his help troubleshooting.

So I've been socketing a lot of diodes lately, building a lot of overdrives and distortions lately. I've found that the break-away single sockets I've been using are useless. Once I place a component in the socket and remove it, the next component I put in that socket barely stays put. This obviously completely defeats the purpose of the socket. Is it bad sockets, or do they all do this? I can't remember where I got them, but if it was Tayda, I suppose I shouldn't be surprised.

Is the 9203 photocell supposed to be bent over so the flat part faces the bulb? or just mounted similar to a cap, with the flat part facing up, next to the bulb? I've been searching the build reports, but have seen various cells and mountings. I am using the suggested parts from Small Bear in the BOM. (9203 photocell with the JKL 560-8099SB lamp) What is the best way to install this setup?

Thanks!

All EQ controls and Master working, but the gain is not functioning. With the gain off, I get clean signal, but it quiets as I turn up the gain. I've already checked wiring, components and whatnot. Here are my voltages:

Q1: D= 9.02 G= 0.12 S= 0.00
Q2: D= 5.90 G= 2.61 S= 3.13
Q3: D= 5.90 G= 2.63 S= 3.15

I though Q1 numbers looked odd, tried swapping another BS170, same result.

Schematic attached.

I have built a couple of fuzz pedals, and cant use them at live volume due to the excessive noise and feedback. Are ther any tricks or adjustments that can be employed to minimize this? Perhaps shielded wire, bending leads, etc?
Thanks!

Bought some germs off ebay from a seller in Bulgaria. They came in a cannister. The leftover space in the cannister was filled various capacitors. I love this guy!

Just finished this one. It sounds great, but may need some more tweaking or swapping out different trannies. Its going to be a fun one to play around with.

I am building a 5 knob fuzz, and I am waiting on my germs to arrive. I have socketed them, and was wondering if there is a way to jumper the sockets and test it out so I can go ahead and start boxing it up?

I got one of those Ernie Ball VP Jr pedals for Christmas, put it on my board, and instantly noticed that it sucked some tone and/or level away, even at full volume. I also happened to have a JMK Beauty Boost conveniently close by. I'm thinking about throwing it into my VP Jr with a toggle to bypass it if I want.

If I use a spdt, do I wire the output of the vp to the center lug, one lug to the output jack, and the other lug thru the beauty boost, and also to the output jack? Do I need to throw a resistor in there somewhere?

Just have to decide if I want to put holes in my brand new pedal...
Hell yes!

How do I measure HFE of transistors for optimum fuzz effect performance?

I have been on an overdrive and boost kick lately, but I am starting to get into fuzzes and muffs. I was aware of the various transistors and that they create different sounds, but I am at a loss for where to start researching what works best in which circuit. I have a jmk 5 knob fuzz to start with. If anyone can help me understand how to select trannies for it, I would greatly appreciate it.

Since I started building, and for nearly a year, I've been using the super cheap solder iron that came with my BYOC starter kit. I'm pretty sure their kit is all tools from Harbor Freight. I am surprised it lasted this long.

I just got a new solder iron. Its the Hakko FX-888D. I can't believe I didn't upgrade sooner. I am even more in love with building now. I'm glad I had to master that piece of junk, because it makes the new one very easy to use.

Now, if I could just get better at troubleshooting!