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Thanks! I think I get it now.
However, I'm starting to see a problem for my original intent for this application. I was going to change the value of a pot to act as a replacement for the Reverb level on an Electro-Harmonix Holy Grail. However, I am just now realizing that going from a linear pot to a logarithmic pot can only be used in a voltage dividing application and I think my application requires variable resistance, so this method won't work.

Wait a second, I just stumbled across this: http://www.diystompboxes.com/analogalchemy/emh/emh.html
Will this calculator help a brother out? My head is spinning a bit

[Rt]

So lets get all the parts straight:

R_t is the taper resistor being used
R is the desired pot value (in my case, 25k)
b is the fraction of the pot being used to get the desired taper (in my case, 1/5, or 0.2)
Where does the pot value being used come into play?

So, I've been reading up on tapering resistors in: http://www.geofex.com/article_folders/potsecrets/potscret.htm
I'm interested in turning a Linear wah potentiometer into something resembling a A25K pot. Can this be accomplished via tapering resistors? It seems to me like it is possible, but I could be wrong. The techy-ness of that article is hard for me to understand at certain points. If it will work, what value wah pot should I be looking at getting and what value resistor?

Thanks Brian!

Is there any "best" one for this application, or are the differences pretty negligible?

So, I'm working on a Faultline build right now, with the intention of running it at 18v. So, I'm also building a Roadrage to accomplish this. My question is, for running it at 18v, will 1N4001s and/or 1N914s still be good alternatives to the 1N5817 listed in the project doc for the roadrage? Or perhaps even 1N5818s? Any one of those 3 will be easier for me to get my hands on than the 1N5817. Thanks!

That's probably what my boards would look like if I made drew them up myself. That's why I leave it to the pros!

So, I'm working on this super deluxe overdrive pedal. The idea is to have selectable mid-hump frequencies, selectable diode clipping and selectable opamps. My question is regarding stacking and switching opamps. Basically I've taken my notes from Beavis audio's screamer lab- http://www.beavisaudio.com/projects/ScreamerLab/
1.) should the switches be on-off-on, on-on-on, or on-on switches?
2.) does this even work? I've read somewhere that he never got his stacked opamps to switch properly. Is the logic sound?
3.) will it be fine to joint all three pin1's together and all three pin7's together on 2 strips of veroboard? I'd like to do that instead of having a hot mess of wires soldered together. The joint I'm talking about is in between all the switches and the PCB.
Here's a visual:

I have an old v4 slambox PCB that I'm putting together for a friend. My question is, if I were to omit the LED on the PCB and instead wire it up with the switch, can I just omit it from the PCB without doing anything further? Or would there be some alternate wiring I would have to do? My thinking is that I can just omit it without any problems, I just want to be sure.

Sooooo what's the word on the Fishhead?

So the Cave Dweller is described as a "medium-fi" delay. Is there any way to make it more hifi like a digital delay? Thanks

Thats so awesome of you!! PM coming your way!

I'm looking for something like this that's available in the US: http://www.musikding.de/Active-parts/Diodes/LED/LED-Bezel-5mm/LED-Bezel-5mm-chrome-outside-reflector::139.html

I just did a shipping estimate and it would be ~42 EUROS to ship to the US!

I know that Jameco has a similar pre-assembled LED w/ bezel that I may be able to just use the bezel from, but I'm fairly sure that they're 3mm only and I'm looking for something that will fit a 5mm. Also, I'd like it to just be the bezel (not an LED + bezel assembly) and fairly inexpensive.

I've updated thge Projects page with the tentative release date of 7.21 for the re-orders. I've also added what I think will be released in August.

yippie skippie!