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Mutron's rotary switch

Started by midwayfair, October 27, 2012, 01:35:35 AM

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MIM#1

Thanks you guys!
Yeah, that would be cool indeed to socket the three pass options somehow.I'm kind of a traditional envelope filter user so I'm fine with one pass selection,and bandpass is my favorite [but low-pass sounds excellent as well!].I really dont think I'll miss the 3 way selector cause one outstanding filter sound is all I need.I really like the fine tuning of the sweep trimmer but I kind of prefer it inside as its a set it and forget it thing for me,and I'm using one guitar live so no need to re-adjust it.I definately recommend the up/down switch inside because A] I dont use the down filter much and B] Everything needs to be re-set when you switch to down.So since you cant just switch it on the fly I dont miss having it within reach.
Anybody considering building this guy I have one recommendation....Do It!  ;D

midwayfair

Quote from: MIM#1 on November 12, 2012, 02:33:38 PMThe volume pot is all the way off and theres still a bit of boost so I'd like to ask how I can lower the volume just a hair.

There's a 10K in series with the volume trim in the final buffer stage. Jumper that and it will be a unity volume buffer.

Keep in mind that some of the best places for the gain pot may be below unity in some settings. Such is the nature of filters.

MIM#1

#17
Quote from: midwayfair on November 12, 2012, 07:35:52 PM
Quote from: MIM#1 on November 12, 2012, 02:33:38 PMThe volume pot is all the way off and theres still a bit of boost so I'd like to ask how I can lower the volume just a hair.

There's a 10K in series with the volume trim in the final buffer stage. Jumper that and it will be a unity volume buffer.

Keep in mind that some of the best places for the gain pot may be below unity in some settings. Such is the nature of filters.

Well,I tried jumping R25...no sound. Then I thought maybe it was R24....crackly distorted sound when jumpered. So I'm not gonna fool with it any more.I can live with a slight volume boost,its volume drops that drive me crazy!

madbean

You can actually increase R24 to lower the output. Try 47k there, and leave the other stuff stock. Jumpering R25 means that when the Vol trim is all the way down you will have no output. You need some resistance there at all times. But, a higher value of R24 will limit the signal a bit more going into that stage.

midwayfair

Quote from: madbean on November 13, 2012, 01:44:03 PMJumpering R25 means that when the Vol trim is all the way down you will have no output.

That's a bit unusual. Sorry for the bad advice, MIM#1!  :-[

madbean

Quote from: midwayfair on November 13, 2012, 02:19:59 PM
Quote from: madbean on November 13, 2012, 01:44:03 PMJumpering R25 means that when the Vol trim is all the way down you will have no output.

That's a bit unusual. Sorry for the bad advice, MIM#1!  :-[

The input of IC2_B is inverted.

midwayfair

Quote from: madbean on November 13, 2012, 04:01:43 PM
Quote from: midwayfair on November 13, 2012, 02:19:59 PM
Quote from: madbean on November 13, 2012, 01:44:03 PMJumpering R25 means that when the Vol trim is all the way down you will have no output.

That's a bit unusual. Sorry for the bad advice, MIM#1!  :-[

The input of IC2_B is inverted.

Oh right, duh, that's why it was there in the first place!  :-X

MIM#1

No worries, its back to stock and I'm gonna keep it there :-)
The volume really isnt a big issue at all and I'm kinda starting to like the slight kick its giving. One cool discovery..
When the gain knob reaches maximum this thing creates a killer,natural feedback when driving a distortion or overdrive.I might put a knob on that pot that I can turn with my foot for those feedback inducing moments.
Wish I could post clips but I'm not set up to.I know its cliche but in band pass this thing sounds exactly like the 'What I am' solo in that old Eddie Brickel tune...and thats a great sound! 8)

MIM#1

One final update, I did put a 39k in R24 and it really did the trick,perfect unity gain with the volume trimmer at 25%.Above that plenty of boost available if you desire that. Thanks again Brian for the outstanding advice!

madbean


Stomptown

Quote from: madbean on October 27, 2012, 01:55:58 AM
Yes, it sure can. It does not matter which you use. I forgot to mention that in the build docs...I tend to have the 3P4Ts on hand myself since they are so versatile. The one thing you can do with a 3P4T is use LED indicators for each mode if you like.

Does anyone have any info on how to wire tri-color led using 3p4t? I would love to add this to the nautilus I'm working on but my understanding of switches is lacking at this point...

Hangingmonkey

Quote from: Stumptown on December 29, 2012, 10:15:30 AM
Quote from: madbean on October 27, 2012, 01:55:58 AMYes, it sure can. It does not matter which you use. I forgot to mention that in the build docs...I tend to have the 3P4Ts on hand myself since they are so versatile. The one thing you can do with a 3P4T is use LED indicators for each mode if you like.

Does anyone have any info on how to wire tri-color led using 3p4t? I would love to add this to the nautilus I'm working on but my understanding of switches is lacking at this point...

For a common cathode led, you could connect the ground to the cathode and then each of the leads to 5,6,7 on the switch from the diagram on the mutron instructions and then connect b to a 9v source.  Havent tried it but i think it will work.

madbean

Haven't ever used a tri-color LED but what Hangingmonkey described sounds right to me.

Stomptown

Quote from: Hangingmonkey on December 29, 2012, 02:17:19 PM
Quote from: Stumptown on December 29, 2012, 10:15:30 AM
Quote from: madbean on October 27, 2012, 01:55:58 AM
Yes, it sure can. It does not matter which you use. I forgot to mention that in the build docs...I tend to have the 3P4Ts on hand myself since they are so versatile. The one thing you can do with a 3P4T is use LED indicators for each mode if you like.

Does anyone have any info on how to wire tri-color led using 3p4t? I would love to add this to the nautilus I'm working on but my understanding of switches is lacking at this point...

For a common cathode led, you could connect the ground to the cathode and then each of the leads to 5,6,7 on the switch from the diagram on the mutron instructions and then connect b to a 9v source.  Havent tried it but i think it will work.

Thanks for the info! Do you know if the led would turn on/off with the foot switch or if it would remain on during bypass?

Hangingmonkey

Quote from: Stumptown on December 29, 2012, 07:37:27 PM
Quote from: Hangingmonkey on December 29, 2012, 02:17:19 PM
Quote from: Stumptown on December 29, 2012, 10:15:30 AM
Quote from: madbean on October 27, 2012, 01:55:58 AM
Yes, it sure can. It does not matter which you use. I forgot to mention that in the build docs...I tend to have the 3P4Ts on hand myself since they are so versatile. The one thing you can do with a 3P4T is use LED indicators for each mode if you like.

Does anyone have any info on how to wire tri-color led using 3p4t? I would love to add this to the nautilus I'm working on but my understanding of switches is lacking at this point...

For a common cathode led, you could connect the ground to the cathode and then each of the leads to 5,6,7 on the switch from the diagram on the mutron instructions and then connect b to a 9v source.  Havent tried it but i think it will work.

Thanks for the info! Do you know if the led would turn on/off with the foot switch or if it would remain on during bypass?

It would depend on how you ground it. If you connect the cathode to the top left lug on the 3pdt, same as the main bypass led cathode then the 3color led should switch off when the effect is bypassed.