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Right on! I like that the galactica gives you the option for through hole or smd. That seems like an excellent option at this point. I accidently ordered smd tl072's recently.. I feel like I'll need some kind of magnifying glass rig to get into that, Probly should look into that though, just because. On the other hand my last 2 builds were mb wigl's. Turned out great. I'd been previously somewhat intimidated by optic/vactrols, just for a lack of understanding. Have had great luck building my own though.

As far as the galactica goes. I need to build the updated jfet matcher and give that a try. I ended up just blindly swaping in transistors. I ended up with really good depth but it's more of a vibe/tremolo sound. Which is really awesome followed by an out of sync tremolo, reverb and delay but I do want to get it right. Hope to have some time this weekend

Ya. I know. My board archive is full of p45 and p90 work alikes though!

Thanks Jon, thats pretty much as I expected... It's not that 50 cents a piece or $5 a pair is unaffordable to me, I'm thinking long term. I would like to do this for awhile! Say I want to build a phaser 2 years from now, are they going to be a dollar a piece/10 for a matched set? Who is to say... It would be nice to "stock up" on some of these components before they are gone for good. I'm going to go shuffle through the rest of my jfets and see if I can find a better match. Will keep you guys posted what I find. Thanks!

Excellent! Thanks for the info.

For the sake of asking, Are there any reasonably priced fets still available that a person could buy in quantity for matching sets?? Through hole components are getting harder to find these days! Jon had made mention of the 2N5952 as working great in a phaser but again pretty hard to find.. Would the 2N5951 work just as well? I know smallbear and such carries these things but for a price I'd rather not pay.

The 4558 for example could be a 4558M (surface mount) or 4558D (Dual 8 pin) so that matters quite a bit. The prefix is the supplier, RC4558 (texas inst.) NJM4558 (new japan radio) etc... Different manufactures may sound different also. It is best to check the data sheet so you know what your buying! If you bought NJM4558's instead of JRC4558's no problem. Some say the JRC4558 is a better sounding chip, maybe why they specify the JRC.

 So I built a galacticon phaser tonight. I'm wondering if anyone knows, what is the proper way to set the bias pot? I wouldn't think by ear? It doesn't seem to make any difference where I set it which leads me to question #2..

I built RG Keens jfet matcher last night. Not realizing there is an Updated jfet matcher also (DOH!) Am I just looking at the VGS numbers to match a set? I have to read his article again on matching fets and let it sink in... The set I matched is  obviously not close enough as the phasing is very slight. I ended up writing off a bag of 5457's I bought from tayda because the readings were so much lower than the rest but, after reading keen's article It seems like those should be fine if there are 2 that are close? I might break down and just buy a matched set. I'd rather figure it out myself though. I dunno, any thoughts greatly appreciated!

Wow, didn't expect that many pots to be hiding under the board. Nice work!

Hopefully this will remain the last pedal I ever need an angle grinder for

I fabricate all kinds of parts and tooling at work. Sounds like fun! Nice work

No problem, I had to draw it out to think about it anyhow! Just another switching layout for my personal archive. I've never really had any interest in fuzz or crazy noise pedals like this until recently, I've been playing guitar and building stuff for a few decades nows .  I'm probly going to give this a try for the fun of it. Just need to figure out the right circuit.
I did finally watch the video through. I see there is a switch to engauge the starve function all the time? Seems simple enough, maybe I missed something there. The cool thing I've come to notice about fuzz pedals is, They are generally pretty basic. Small parts count. And you can add all kinds of switches and pots to control any aspect of the pedal. Gives you alot of bang for your buck if your building it yourself.

Off the top of my head I'd try prototyping something like this. A simple voltage divider in the power supply should do the trick i believe, Especially if your adding it to a PCB you have or a pedal that is already made. R1 & R2 would be up to you to figure out, just search for 'voltage divider calculator'. You could use a pot also to vary any amount of voltage you want externally if you wanted.
  Black lines are how to hook it up. Blue is normal 9v supply to pcb, red is when you push the momentary switch, 8 volts, 4 volts.... whatever you choose.
  Hope this helps!

Nice work! You reminded me of the C30 footswitch schematic I saved, very similar, I find it odd that It didn't work with the resistors.. Saves me the headache though if I ever build one!

...962 post to go...

In the spirit of DIY here is a board I made last year with a couple of pedals I made myself. I gotta laugh a little at the simplicity of it all but, perhaps I'll update this soon! There are definately upsides and downsides to this sort of "board"

My wire stripper is masterforce from menards. At five bucks a pair it works pretty excellent. Take in mind I'm a mechanic by trade and use Snap-on/matco on a daily basis, very expensive for what they are... If your in the midwest I would highly recommend the cheap store brand! Works great for up to 24ga wire

Right on, because you receive the powder in one package doesn't mean it wasn't mixed before hand though (Check out powder by the pound, they have all kinds of crazy paints likes this). I'm just saying if I were to try and tackle this finish I could easily achieve it by mixing a gold/copper maybe a little black to get that same speckled look. Thats what the OP was asking, I'm sure there are alot of different ways to achieve this. I'm probly just oblivious to the horrible microscopic orange peel the clear coat has, I've been painting for far to long to end up with that