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This just hit me... I'm wondering if there's something weird with the pinouts of the OC-44 that I have. maybe i need to cross a leg or something?
Anyway I can tell. I was looking at a random OC44 datasheet, but it might not fit for this one?

I got these OC44s from Mammoth a few months back. Markings on the package are "GT-OC44." Markings on the transistor itself are: NJS1045 OC44

Is there any other way to check what the C,B,E are? Anyone know off hand what they are for these specific trannies?

Other thought, is the fact that I'm getting -9.4v an issue? Is the .4 causing an issue?

No trimpot on this board. I just again turned and reoriented the transistor to every possible position as well as 2 other OC44s that I have all with the same results. No idea where to go from here.

Well, it appears I spoke to soon.

Now we have sound, and it works, but only the last 10-20% of the pot is actual "boost". Anything lower than about 3 o'clock on the pot is less than unity. With the pot at max, strumming hard on one chord causes the pedal to "flub" and it barely produces any volume for a few seconds after that.

You're a psychic. I hit the 3 pads you mentioned and it fired right up!
Only thing now is the LED isn't lighting, so I'm guessing I just got the polarity reversed. I should be able to fix that, I hope. I swore I check it 10 times, but i must be wrong.

Ok. Update. Slightly good news.

I get a VERY faint sputtery sound with the volume turned all the way up. The pedal still pops LOUDLY when turned on. I've rotated the transistor around 3 times now, and even tried another. The current position is correct, per the datasheet, and I also get zero sound in the other two positions.

I reflowed all joints, and also corrected a few to work better. There is still one "glob" and after about 5 solder/desolder attempts, I don't believe it can be fixed. Its not touchin the ground pad, I checked.

Anyway, more pics below. Any further thoughts are appreciated. I'm going to work on a Neutrino project while I lay this one to the side. It's blowing my mind.

Sweet. Thanks for the replies guys. I'll give all of this a shot tonight once I get home.

I seriously need to read up on how to troubleshoot these things before running the the boards here. I just have no clue (yet!) on what should have continuity, what shouldn't, etc.

You could have a bad joint.  Before soldering up an etched board, it should be cleaned and buffed.  I use a scotch brite pad and lightly scuff the board then I'll clean it with acetone.  It really helps the solder melt onto the copper.  I can tell from your joints that you are not getting good adhesion to the board.  They should be like a Hershey kiss not a chocolate ball. 

Josh

That's good to know. I have a few more etched boards that I'm wanting to work on this weekend, so I'll do this. This is my 3rd build on an etched board, and the others fired up the first time, so I never thought this was an issue. Is there anything that I can do, short of either starting over or buying a new board, to fix this one, if the joints are the cause?

I'm not sure I follow you on the solder bridge to ground. I've attached a pic (sorry, can't upload pics here at work.....), and circled two "globs" where I'm thinking you may be referring to.
I was assuming that these the two pads within each circle were ok if they were touching, but maybe I'm wrong.
I had a hard time getting those four to solder without 2 of them touching. I do have a desoldering iron, and I'll try to re do the 4 of them.
Would that be something that would cause the LED to not light up, for the circuit to not work, and also for the pedal to "POP" when turned on? Sorry, just trying to learn why things are causing issues rather than just fixing them.

Thanks for the help thus far!

No issues with continuity from the board ground to grounding point on either the center of the switch or sleeve of the input jack.

Bottom shots for your viewing pleasure.

-9.4v

Just did a check. I'm getting about 9.4v coming off the road rage. Same reading when checking the 9v pad on the pcb.

C4 is installed on the road rage. I'm only missing C1, C6, and C2. It might be hard to see, but it's there.
I"ve used the road rage on 2 Tonebenders already, and I've wired it the same way, I believe. No issues with those.

Ok,

I'm an idiot.... must've had my in/out cords swapped.. I get a bypass sound now. However, no sound when the pedal is engaged. I get a loud POP when turning it on, but no sound and no LED.

Howdy folks. So, this is my first madbean build and, since I've only built about 3 pedals, I'm still a good bit new at this.

FWIW, I'm posting this over on the BYOC forum as well. Maybe someone can help.

Anyway, here's my issue. I know it must be something basic, but I'm stumped. I get no sound in bypass, or when the pedal is on. Also, when the pedal is engaged, the LED doesn't light up or anything either.

I'm trying to use the Road Rage board so I can use a power supply, and haven't installed the battery adapter. I know that can't effect the bypass signal, but I'm throwing that out there as I'm sure, even when I get a bypass signal, that I'll get nothing when the pedal is actually on.

Anyway, here are pics. ANY help is appreciated.

Well, I'm about the most excited guy on the planet right now! Did a good bit of reading at work today (sorry boss) on using my DMM to test my transistors (none of which went bad), how to use the Diode test function on the DMM (which is what "ignited" my LED, which is also ok!), and how to actually measure voltage.

It turns out that either my wiring on the DC Jack was wrong, or I had a faulty DC Jack. It measured only 1v. I swapped it out, soldered the two wires back to the new one, and voila! 9.1v (hmm?) came up on the DMM. I soldered the 9v wire back to the board, and it fired right up. Re-installed my OC44s and BAM, in your face ToneBender action.

Anyway, sorry for the long winded post but I'm amazed right now. Thanks for the help guys! 
Now....if I can just get my Trotsky Drive's Gain pot to work.......