I got PIF'd a set of boards for this a long time ago and kind of forgot about them. Recently I was thinking about getting a loop switcher and I was trying to find one that would have some programmability but still be easy to use. Anything that would make me need to refer to the manual is right out. I already have that problem with my Timefactor! I realized that I already had the solution sitting in my pile of to-build. I actually really dig the looper Marshall Arts is developing (http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=28843.0) and it looks like a super fun project. I thought about going that direction but this will work better with my needs and setup.
So, as of now, I have the audio and control boards populated and the case is all drilled out and partly stickered up with graphics decals. I'll be using enclosed switchcraft jacks, which I have in hand. I purchased some knockoffs of the alpha DPDT momentaries but I don't like the click so I'm going with soft touch SPDT switches. I also found a really sweet midi jack. So far it's looking like everything is going to fit.
I've been mocking the whole thing up in Fusion 360. I used 3d printed drill templates and an angled little jig to keep my drilling surface perpendicular to the drill bit. Everything is lining up really nice.
Being a bit colorblind I plan to use the 7 segment display instead of the single RGB bank indicator. I'm also splitting the bank and manual LEDs to make it simple for myself. It isn't making the build simple though. I'm working up some printed brackets to hold the LEDs and switch PCBs in place.
7 segment displays can be tough to read if they don't have some kind of filter in front of them, so I found some thin red plastic that I super glued to thin polycarbonate. I over drilled the top and mounted this red lens in to the hole. Then I flowed UV cure resin over that and then cured it with my daughter's nail polish UV light. It worked great. My graphic will cover over the big round hole and will only expose a rectangle so it should look pretty sweet when done.
(https://i.imgur.com/ly0zTVJ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/5Ii9oc5.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ALyEl3C.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/0FSGMBR.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/x8AGZgS.jpg)
I printed out the LED & board brackets and the fit was off so I tweaked it. This is attempt number 2 on the slicer getting ready to send off to the printer.
(https://i.imgur.com/3BA2249.png)
Cool, that's a good idea with the filter for the 7 segment display.
I don't know if I'm done with this bracket but it seems pretty close.
(https://i.imgur.com/XPVq9qa.jpg)
Looks great, Lee, as always. I agree, my Looper will be more complicated to build, larger and requires a manual for the initial setup, if you want to change the midi configuration. Brenja brought up the idea to use CC messages for all kinds of midi control within a patch, I guess that's one of the main differences...
Anyway, again a great approach to use 3d printing in stompbox building. May I ask what kind of labels you use and where you get those? Doesn't look like waterside decals...
Quote from: Leevibe on March 24, 2019, 03:03:07 AM
I don't know if I'm done with this bracket but it seems pretty close.
(https://i.imgur.com/XPVq9qa.jpg)
This is really cool. I dig the fixture design.
Quote from: Marshall Arts on March 24, 2019, 06:26:02 AM
Looks great, Lee, as always. I agree, my Looper will be more complicated to build, larger and requires a manual for the initial setup, if you want to change the midi configuration. Brenja brought up the idea to use CC messages for all kinds of midi control within a patch, I guess that's one of the main differences...
Anyway, again a great approach to use 3d printing in stompbox building. May I ask what kind of labels you use and where you get those? Doesn't look like waterside decals...
The decals came from the same guy who did the vinyl decals for the Space Race build. He could easily make you decals for your looper. His name is Forest Dukes. His website isn't the best but you can contact him. He can do graphics up to like 5 feet wide and he can do all of the cutouts you need. https://www.dukesdecals.com/collections/decals-stickers
Quote from: Leevibe on March 24, 2019, 02:57:04 PM
Quote from: Marshall Arts on March 24, 2019, 06:26:02 AM
Looks great, Lee, as always. I agree, my Looper will be more complicated to build, larger and requires a manual for the initial setup, if you want to change the midi configuration. Brenja brought up the idea to use CC messages for all kinds of midi control within a patch, I guess that's one of the main differences...
Anyway, again a great approach to use 3d printing in stompbox building. May I ask what kind of labels you use and where you get those? Doesn't look like waterside decals...
The decals came from the same guy who did the vinyl decals for the Space Race build. He could easily make you decals for your looper. His name is Forest Dukes. His website isn't the best but you can contact him. He can do graphics up to like 5 feet wide and he can do all of the cutouts you need. https://www.dukesdecals.com/collections/decals-stickers
Great! I will look for similar services in Germany, it's a nice idea! Mind telling us how much you paid for the three labels?
As far as the cost of the labels, I think he gave me a buddy price. ;) But I think he would be super reasonable. A lot of it depends on if he has to do much work to prepare it to print and cut. He is interested in picking up this sort of business though, so it could be worth checking into.
I also love the way you utilize the 3D printer. You have a unique way of problem solving and it's rad as hell. Can't wait to see how this turns out.
-Steve
Yea... This whole thing is looking rad. More progress pics! 8)
I got brave and decided to go ahead and stick the decal on the top. It lined up nice! The plan for indicator LEDs has been to use peek-a-boos ala Juansolo. Bright blue LEDs for the individual loop indicators and amber/orange for active program. The blues are bright enough to shine through but the ambers were looking pretty weak. I decided to take a risk and drill through the vinyl and it worked out great!
To drill it cleanly I put the enclosure face down and held it tight against a sacrificial wood block with a piece of paper in between. It punched right through and made a really clean hole. It's going to look really good with the 2mm turret LEDs I'm using.
I'm really excited! The rectangle looks pretty good for the 7 segment display too. You can't see it in this pic but the circular cutout definitely telegraphs through. It still looks really good though.
The pic here makes it look like the printing is really grainy but it looks really nice in person.
(https://i.imgur.com/BITT6Ya.jpg)
I'm making slow progress on this guy. I decided to run a ground bus through all the jacks. These are NOS Switchcrafts that a friend gave me. They seemed kind of oxidized so I deoxited and lightly filed the terminals. They seem to be made of phenolic, which I think is cool. I have send/return wires tacked on and I have what I think is a workable solution for mounting the relay and control boards. I think it is all going to fit, just barely! Smart people just use double stick PCB mounts and stick them to the lid.
(https://i.imgur.com/8xd4nBh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/0swLbTF.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/J568JsW.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/JX6YFPP.jpg)
More progress pics to share for anyone who is interested. I'm feeling like this is getting close. For me close means maybe in the next month. I have the 7 segment board and chip incoming from TH Customs. I have at least one more part to 3D model and print and then hope it all fits. So far so good.
Here is one of the LED mounting plates with LEDs epoxied in and wired up ready to connect to the switch daughter board.
(https://i.imgur.com/KjtcvpD.jpg)
I discovered that the regulator isn't going to fit standing up because of where I'm planning to mount the board, so I had to remove it and replace it with a new one in a laid-flat orientation.
(https://i.imgur.com/Qi0lUNg.jpg)
My normal rule is to solder wires to the board first and then run them out to whatever they are connecting to. With this build I'm going the opposite direction. I think final soldering at the board end will be straightforward and this will keep me from having to do a bunch of soldering in tight places.
(https://i.imgur.com/88ZUhJy.jpg)
A lot of rinse and repeat type work on this project. It's starting to look cool though. I hope my decision to not use molex connectors doesn't turn out to be foolish. This could be a beast to troubleshoot.
(https://i.imgur.com/SKpHUSD.jpg)
EPIC is the keyword here. This project has been around forever and is a great build but this takes it to crazy levels. I really enjoy seeing how the "cool kids" do it. I would never have this sort of patience but have a total respect for those among us that have this kind of talent. Well done sir.
Here are the final 2 images of the WIP. I finished it up last week and everything works! These show more 3D printed parts. In order to implement the 7 segment display I needed a solid way to mount it. I couldn't have it board mounted because of the way I had the switch and hole configured. It required me to solder tack flying leads to all of the pins but it wasn't too hard and it works perfectly.
I will have a build report up soon with pics of the finished build and a video showing how it works.
(https://i.imgur.com/5xl14UR.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/SWj6BXU.jpg)
Goaaaaaaaalssss
Hello I am new here and my name is Manny.
I need help wiring the switch daughter boards....I have checked the traces but they seem to
not be continuous. I like the way you hooked up the two leds with the same ground leg. Nifty :))
I have drawn a copy of the daughter board and would like it if you could trace thru it...is it wrong ??
Thank you and your looper is looking very good.
Manny