Been beating my head over this one. Took my time and made sure all component values were correct, etc, etc. So I get clean signal passing through the circuit but no delay. Per the troubleshooting in the build docs, audio probe at pin 7 of IC2 passes signal, Pin 7 of IC3 passes signal and BBD jumpers are set correctly. Also the build DOC states that there should be power to pin 1 and ground to pin 5 of the MN3005. Looking at a data sheet it looks like it should be ground on pin 1 and power to pin 5 (?). Here are my voltages
LF353N IC1
1. 7.46 8. 14.94
2. 7.46 7. 7.45
3. 7.45 6. 7.46
4. 1.6mv 5. 7.45
NE570N IC2
1. 1.084 16. 0.780
2. 1.806 15. 1.806
3. 1.806 14. 1.806
4. 3.9mv 13. 1.806
5. 1.8 12. 1.806
6. 1.805 11. 4.72
7. 6.63 10. 4.72
8. 1.8 9. 1.806
MN3005 IC3
1. 9.22 8. 8.56
2. 5.1 7. 3.59
3. 7.21 6. 4.9
4. 7.17 5. 5.7mv
MN3101 IC5
1. 9.23 8. 4.5
2. 4.9 7. 4.67
3. 8.0mv 6. 4.46
4. 5.10 5. 4.48
TL062CN IC6
1. Unstable 8. 14.94
2. Unstable 7. Unstable
3. Unstable 6. Unstable
4. 1.3mv 5. Unstable
Any ideas folks?
If you look at the datasheet it says Pin 5 should be negative 15V, so think of this as a bit like making a PNP positive ground fuzz run on negative ground by flipping the components & power connections :)
Hmm, why do you only have 9v power hitting your MN3005s compared to your supply of 15V, have you put in the 8v2 zener (D2) for the 3205 model?
Your NE570 too... should have 15v on Pin 13
Something is dragging voltage down.
Shorts, backwards parts, wrong values, follow the power traces.
I left D2 open as the build docs said to omit...should this be jumpered?
I had a similar issue (and similar voltages) solved by checking the Clock trim. The trimmer I used had the opposite pin configuration of that shown in the build doc. Once I figured out that it was backwards, everything worked as expected when calibrating. Might be worth a look...
Mine does in fact have an opposite pinout but being that it is set at 12 o clock for calibrating I wouldn't think that would make a difference. Did you replace yours all together?
Quote from: murdog47 on August 08, 2013, 12:22:35 PM
I left D2 open as the build docs said to omit...should this be jumpered?
No, you got it right, just checking why the voltage is being pulled down.
IC1 & 6 have voltage as they should from your readings, but 2, 3 & 5 are off from the supply.
Pull out the MN3101 and measure Pin 1, Pull out Both MN3005s and measure Pin 1, Pull out the 570 and measure Pin 13.
Quote from: murdog47 on August 08, 2013, 03:51:58 PM
Mine does in fact have an opposite pinout but being that it is set at 12 o clock for calibrating I wouldn't think that would make a difference. Did you replace yours all together?
Didn't replace, just set trim to reflect that pin 1 on the layout (fully counterclockwise) is pin 3 for my trimmer. Not at home at the minute, but now that you mention it, your contention makes sense. I'll check this evening.
Attempted a jumper on d2 just for grins and still no signal out of pin 3 on MN3005. Here is where it gets weird. Started checking voltages again and I'm now getting 13.8v at pin 1 on MN3005 and 12.83v at pin 8, the others are bumped a little bit also and the ground on pin 5 bumped down a bit. Also now reading 14.95 at pin 13 of the 570 and 13.58 at pin 1 on the MN3101. The LF353 and TL062 appear unchanged. Attempted to calibrate again and I still have signal at pin 7 of the MN3005 but nothing out of pin 3 or 4. ??? The only thing I changed was that I jumpered d2. Note: I removed the jumper and it appears to make no difference either way.
Quote from: murdog47 on August 08, 2013, 06:59:42 PM
Attempted a jumper on d2 just for grins and still no signal out of pin 3 on MN3005. Here is where it gets weird. Started checking voltages again and I'm now getting 13.8v at pin 1 on MN3005 and 12.83v at pin 8, the others are bumped a little bit also and the ground on pin 5 bumped down a bit. Also now reading 14.95 at pin 13 of the 570 and 13.58 at pin 1 on the MN3101. The LF353 and TL062 appear unchanged. Attempted to calibrate again and I still have signal at pin 7 of the MN3005 but nothing out of pin 3 or 4. ??? The only thing I changed was that I jumpered d2. Note: I removed the jumper and it appears to make no difference either way.
Don't jumper it.
Your meter could be on the fritz or you might have a bad joint... what are your new voltages for The MN3005s, 570 & 3101.
Also, where did you source the 3005s from, I tend to not jump to the conclusion that chips are fake but with 3005s it's a lot more prevalent so good to rule them out.
Turned it on and off several times and I continue to get these higher voltages on my power pins. I think I am reading good voltages now but still no signal out of the MN3005 pins 3 or 4.
New Voltages
MN3005
1. 13.40
2. 6.72
3. 10.12
4. 10.12
5. 2.3 mv
6. 6.74
7. 5.66
8. 12.75
570
1. 1.102
2. 1.805
3. 1.805
4. 1.9 mv
5. 1.807
6. 1.803
7. 6.63
8. 1.805
9. 1.804
10. 4.72
11. 4.72
12. 1.805
13. 14.9
14. 1.805
15. 1.805
16. 0.920
3101
1. 13.56
2. 6.79
3. 3.5 mv
4. 6.79
5. 6.53
6. 6.99
7. 6.75
8. 12.83
Bought from ebay seller POLIDA.
Quote from: murdog47 on August 08, 2013, 07:23:25 PM
Bought from ebay seller POLIDA.
Have you tested them in anything else?
Your voltages look reasonable... so you probe up to Pin 3 of the first MN3005 and on the output... whine?
You are trying to bias it while probing the output yeah?
Have not tried them in anything else. Dont have anything to put them in. Yes and yes on the wine and biasing.
That complicates matters they could be fake or dead having come from ebay...
Could be another issue though.
Hard without a scope or some way to verify the chips, but a photo of the chips might be of some minor use for guesswork.
(http://i1077.photobucket.com/albums/w466/pmurray47/IMG_4642_zps3ff7fcf4.jpg) (http://s1077.photobucket.com/user/pmurray47/media/IMG_4642_zps3ff7fcf4.jpg.html)
(http://i1077.photobucket.com/albums/w466/pmurray47/IMG_4643_zps3a63823d.jpg) (http://s1077.photobucket.com/user/pmurray47/media/IMG_4643_zps3a63823d.jpg.html)
(http://i1077.photobucket.com/albums/w466/pmurray47/IMG_4644_zps1b95dd2a.jpg) (http://s1077.photobucket.com/user/pmurray47/media/IMG_4644_zps1b95dd2a.jpg.html)
Hmm... I might be off, this is just a tiny hunch but something about those chips makes me think one of those might be real and the other looks suspect... but it's incredibly close, might just be the photos. They could still both just be dead or fakes though, good fakes though.
But just for the hell of it, try swapping the positions of the chips and see if with the other first you get delay.
If not, have to dig some more.
Switched them up and got the same result with both. Anyone out there willing to verify my MN3005's if I ship them to you? I'm pretty sure they are the problem but want to make sure before I go any further.
Hey,
I just finished my ABDX project with the MN3008 chips and MN3101 clock running at approximately 12V.
I have the same problem as murdog47. I got Dry Audio passing but no Delay.
There is signal passing at Pin 7 of IC2 and Pin 7 of IC3 but only a high-pitched whine coming out at Pins 3 and 4 of the Delay IC. The BIAS1 pot seems to have no effect whatsoever.
I'm reading the following Voltages:
IC1 LF353N
Pin 1 -> 6,3V
Pin 2 -> 6,3V
Pin 3 -> 6,3V
Pin 4 -> 0V
Pin 5 -> 6,3V
Pin 6 -> 6,3V
Pin 7 -> 6,3V
Pin 8 -> 12V
IC2 SA571N
Pin 1 -> 1,0V Pin 9 -> 1,8V
Pin 2 -> 1,8V Pin 10 -> 4,9V
Pin 3 -> 1,8V Pin 11 -> 4,9V
Pin 4 -> 0V Pin 12 -> 1,8V
Pin 5 -> 1,8V Pin 13 -> 12,4V
Pin 6 -> 1,8V Pin 14 -> 1,8V
Pin 7 -> 5,2V Pin 15 -> 1,8V
Pin 8 -> 1,8V Pin 16 -> 1,0V
IC3 MN3008
Pin 1 -> 11,4V
Pin 2 -> 5,7V
Pin 3 -> 8,8V
Pin 4 -> 8,8V
Pin 5 -> 0V
Pin 6 -> 5,6V
Pin 7 -> 5,3V
Pin 8 -> 10,5V
IC5 MN3101
Pin 1 -> 11,4V
Pin 2 -> 5,6V
Pin 3 -> 0V
Pin 4 -> 5,6V
Pin 5 -> 5,4V
Pin 6 -> 5,7V
Pin 7 -> 5,6V
Pin 8 -> 10,5V
IC6 TL062
unstable except the V+ supply
Could the problem be dead Delay chips? Or could this whine at pins 3 and 4 have another cause?
Greetings Haxman
Mine have been verified as bad chips :( Sounds like you may have the same problem. Don't rule them out though until you get then checked.
Ok, I got some MN3005 fakes from smallbear to use and I am getting the same symptoms. I am still reading good voltages as far as I can tell but still only clean signal and no delay. Signal at BBD pin 7 but not 3 or 4. I've decided to attach some pictures. Is there something I'm missing??
(http://i1077.photobucket.com/albums/w466/pmurray47/IMG_4647_zps0e753e2f.jpg) (http://s1077.photobucket.com/user/pmurray47/media/IMG_4647_zps0e753e2f.jpg.html)
(http://i1077.photobucket.com/albums/w466/pmurray47/IMG_4658_zps4ce7004d.jpg) (http://s1077.photobucket.com/user/pmurray47/media/IMG_4658_zps4ce7004d.jpg.html)
(http://i1077.photobucket.com/albums/w466/pmurray47/IMG_4657_zps13f08db7.jpg) (http://s1077.photobucket.com/user/pmurray47/media/IMG_4657_zps13f08db7.jpg.html)
(http://i1077.photobucket.com/albums/w466/pmurray47/IMG_4656_zps13cd52e4.jpg) (http://s1077.photobucket.com/user/pmurray47/media/IMG_4656_zps13cd52e4.jpg.html)
(http://i1077.photobucket.com/albums/w466/pmurray47/IMG_4655_zpscdd4514e.jpg) (http://s1077.photobucket.com/user/pmurray47/media/IMG_4655_zpscdd4514e.jpg.html)
(http://i1077.photobucket.com/albums/w466/pmurray47/IMG_4653_zpse3c7ac8d.jpg) (http://s1077.photobucket.com/user/pmurray47/media/IMG_4653_zpse3c7ac8d.jpg.html)
(http://i1077.photobucket.com/albums/w466/pmurray47/IMG_4652_zps654f6e25.jpg) (http://s1077.photobucket.com/user/pmurray47/media/IMG_4652_zps654f6e25.jpg.html)
(http://i1077.photobucket.com/albums/w466/pmurray47/IMG_4650_zps1e8a34ea.jpg) (http://s1077.photobucket.com/user/pmurray47/media/IMG_4650_zps1e8a34ea.jpg.html)
I think you're supposed to omit the diode on the clock chip.
Could be bad news. I think it blew mine.
DOH! Thanks Jon!!...been pulling out what left I have of hair! This one got past me in the build docs.
That was in fact the problem!! Cut out D3 and I am now getting signal through pins 3 and 4 on the BBD's. New issue though is that I'm not getting much delay out of it. Some delay but not much more than a slap back.
Don't know if you ever solved this, and it might be a shot in the dark, but yesterday I plugged mine in to a 250 mA supply and didn't get delay. Switched over to a 400mA and it worked like a charm... (v3205 version at 9 volts)