I am building the yellow shark, Thanks to Haberdasher ;D I have to put in a order for some parts and I wanted to know If I can substitute the 1N4007 with a 1N4001 or the Schottky 1N5817. I have a bunch of those and if I can save a buck or two it'd be nice
you could just use 1n4001s i would think
I was under the impression that the end number i.e. 4001, 4003, 4007 etc.. is to do with max voltage, and it doesn't really make a difference, for our purposes.
George
i think d3 and d4 are actually clipping diodes in the yellowshark iirc. i doubt 1n4001 sounds much different than 1n4007, I dunno.
d5 is the one used after the 9v, so as george says one is likely as good as the other for our purposes.
If you lower the Fv of D5, you'll get a little more voltage. This will let you get a little more headroom and vokumne from the chip, which will then drive the diodes a little harder and clip your signal again. Probably a wash. :)
Fv is identical between the 4001 and 4007 in a 9v stompbox.
Im going thru the threads here on some of the issueS people have had . 1 being the Volume and the other the gain• Someone mentioned raising 47K to 150K, Volume pot to 100k , Jumping R 11 or even
putting A 1O u f across Rll ( electro or poly ? )Any one have success or other mods. I Know D1&2 are are either green or red as per taste
Hey Lionel, I'm pretty sure I have some IN4007's, or I think I do anyway, that I could send your way to ease your mind. If interested PM me.
I made some mods to my Yellow Shark that brought it closer to other versions of the HBOD (and SHOD and Model H OD) found on the web. Details here (http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=9113.0). I found it made the pedal more useful for my tastes, but others like it as originally released.
;DThanks Hawk, I wound up sticking in 1n4001's for this board. I have a second board I will kept true to specs
I already noted your changes in my PDF buildout Scott and will try them if Im not happy