Madbean got me started on my 1590A obsession. So I figured I'd post this here. Until recently, my entire board was entirely 1590A pedals, EXCEPT for my reverb. Well, thats all changed. The guts are not my best work, but there was so much to cram in there! Used the box of hall reverb.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-N8BN_eCt4oA/UhQnpOiE1RI/AAAAAAAAAg0/E6nFOSfS718/s512/verb.jpg)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-7w2qgfdV-QI/UhQnpYioSKI/AAAAAAAAAg4/P_xRAC6qVXk/s512/verbguts.jpg)
You weren't lying when you said it was a cram!
On vero too none less!
From one 1590A junkie to another, good work sir!
George
Holy crap! Now I have to make this ::) Too many projects on the go!
Thanks!
Yeah, its a nice sounding reverb. If you do build this, you can replace the DAMP pot with a resistor or trim. It is extremely subtle. Infact, I'm not really sure if I can even hear a difference. Its useless in my opoinion. And I even used a 50k pot instead of the 10k listed on the layout. Most others who built it say the same thing. But yeah, the circuit sounds really nice.
I used the modded layout (3rd one down):
http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2012/04/box-of-hall-reverb-culturejam.html
Thanks to Culturejam and |v|ark for this one!
With plastic jacks! So it can be done. That's a first (this is the third 1590A reverb I've seen now).
Welp, guess I'd better get to work ...
It can be done! But its a major PITA.
I (mostly used) 1/8w resistors, ceramic/ml-ceramic caps. I even sanded down the thickness of the vero board! Its about 1/4 of its original thickness, but I'm not sure if this was really needed. The main trick was to face the components down, and have the IC lay in that space between the pots and the jacks. I also routed as many wires as possible so they weaved in between the two jacks rather than over the jacks so the board could get as low as possible. I put a little tape over the jacks to isolate.
Another important thing is to file down the inner lip on the enclosures back-plate.
I shortened the six leads on the reverb module and then put some vero on them for easy wiring, just like the 9mm pot technique.
I wonder if it could be done with regular components, but with a washer between the case and the lid (even better : a clear acrylic washer with LEDs, as Pickdropper did on a wah).
Anyway, great job on this one, you don't see 1590A reverbs everyday.
That's insane. A belton brick in a 1590A... WITH vero (usually The Space Eater)...
That's impressive! I find it hard enough fitting simple circuits in 1590B boxes. And on vero too!!
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Quote from: kinski on August 25, 2013, 04:51:37 PM
It can be done! But its a major PITA.
I (mostly used) 1/8w resistors, ceramic/ml-ceramic caps. I even sanded down the thickness of the vero board! Its about 1/4 of its original thickness, but I'm not sure if this was really needed. The main trick was to face the components down, and have the IC lay in that space between the pots and the jacks. I also routed as many wires as possible so they weaved in between the two jacks rather than over the jacks so the board could get as low as possible. I put a little tape over the jacks to isolate.
Another important thing is to file down the inner lip on the enclosures back-plate.
I shortened the six leads on the reverb module and then put some vero on them for easy wiring, just like the 9mm pot technique.
Thanks! I've just finished a layout for the Rub-a-dub. Measurements say it'll fit even with the low-profile jacks, but I might end up with open jacks instead regardless.
mini verb!!! killer job man. i'm gonna look into building this one
Super impressive.
This is simply amazing. Great job.
Nice one!!
Thanks guys!
Hey guys. Quick question. I too have built this layout and the tone pot didnt do much of anything. How would I go about replacing the pot with a resistor?
Okay...
I just put the DAMP on a trimpot, then wired up this DWELL control. This is an absolute must for this reverb, if you ask me. You can dial in a decay that is much more "spring" like.
I'm gonna try an even larger DWELL pot to see if I can get some really crazy reverb happening.
To anybody that does this, don't forget to still connect DAMP 1 to REV 3.
--
On a side note, maybe I'm in the minority, but I think its unfortunate that these Belton bricks have modulation built in that you can't adjust or get rid of. I've never heard a spring reverb that has any kind of modulation. I'm hoping in the future, they release a version of the brick that has no modulation, or at least one you can have control over.
(http://johnkvintageguitars.homestead.com/Effects/BOHreverb/Box_of_Hall_-_With_Dwell_V2.png)
Update...
The Dwell control is fantastic. Increasing the pot value does nothing. Instead, replace the 39k resistor on the Dwell board with a trimpot. Set it to just before it oscillates. Then the dwell control can get anything from a really short decay to full on crazy sustain.