So, I was checking this Dr Z attenuator, the Brake lite and it is a good idea for getting more out of the power tubes and still play the amp in a level that isn't killer in a rehearsal room or small venue.
My concerns are that this device is supposed to handle up to 45 watts, and my Bugera V55 combo is rated 50 watts.
I'm running it at 8 ohms and I'm not sure about this but aren't the tubes actually only working around 45 watts or so?
So, killer question is, is it safe to run this attenuator on my Bugera V55 combo???
Has anyone tried this specific combination, or something similar?
(By the way, my idea was not to run Master on 10, but around 8)
Short answer is, it wouldn't be recommended. I'd go with one of the weber mass models rated for 100 watts.
Josh
http://www.tedweber.com/atten.htm
Has anyone here made a attenuator? I just haven't seen to many DIY ones.. is there a reason for this?
Quote from: selfdestroyer on September 15, 2013, 04:06:44 AM
Has anyone here made a attenuator? I just haven't seen to many DIY ones.. is there a reason for this?
Yeah, I was questioning this myself.I've seen some people who have buit, but I think you get stuck to just a limit in terms of power.If you want to get to 100 watts or more I don't think it is that easy or cheap to find the parts.
Found a project:
http://www.guitarplayer.com/article/power-attenuator-project/930 (http://www.guitarplayer.com/article/power-attenuator-project/930)
Its not really a problem to DIY one.
You only need to do proper math regarding input and output impedance (resistance) when combining a few high power resistors.
Doing a good one always includes a coil to bring it closer to a real loudspeaker.
They have done a great job in offering a kit: https://www.tube-town.net/diy/tt-pos/tt-posx-en.html
I have a dr z maz 18 amp, and I built a dr z air brake.
The break lite is up to 45 watts, and the air brake is the pricey one which does up to 100 watts.
I built an air brake and it sound killer.
I used this layout, complete with mouser numbers!
Be sure to buy the taps for the resistor, as they don't come with it.
http://www.andyharrison.net/files/AirbrakeLayout.jpg
Like I said, I use mine all the time, and it's not a tone destroyer like a lot of these kind of devices.
George
Twenty-nine page thread on the Airbrake at the Amp Garage. Pretty sure you need to register to see the pictures but can still read the posts.
http://ampgarage.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2402
Quote from: hammerheadmusicman on September 15, 2013, 04:28:37 PM
I have a dr z maz 18 amp, and I built a dr z air brake.
The break lite is up to 45 watts, and the air brake is the pricey one which does up to 100 watts.
I built an air brake and it sound killer.
I used this layout, complete with mouser numbers!
Be sure to buy the taps for the resistor, as they don't come with it.
http://www.andyharrison.net/files/AirbrakeLayout.jpg
Like I said, I use mine all the time, and it's not a tone destroyer like a lot of these kind of devices.
George
Thanks for all the info, Gives me something to read up on and see if its cost effective to build one or buy one. I did find a updated layout for the airbreak you posted and thought I would share it.
http://ampgarage.com/forum/files/attenuator_layout_final_195.pdf (http://ampgarage.com/forum/files/attenuator_layout_final_195.pdf)
As a guide, mine cost about £80 to build,
They are £200 to buy. In the UK obviously.
Quote from: hammerheadmusicman on September 15, 2013, 04:28:37 PM
I have a dr z maz 18 amp, and I built a dr z air brake.
The break lite is up to 45 watts, and the air brake is the pricey one which does up to 100 watts.
I built an air brake and it sound killer.
I used this layout, complete with mouser numbers!
Be sure to buy the taps for the resistor, as they don't come with it.
http://www.andyharrison.net/files/AirbrakeLayout.jpg
Like I said, I use mine all the time, and it's not a tone destroyer like a lot of these kind of devices.
George
George, I was checking the parts on mouser(Portugal) and you can only order one of the coils(D100K25R) above 18 pieces.That's a bit pricey.They have orders that you can order only one, for example D100K25RE.Are they the same, do they both work equaly?
Really sorry dude, my grandad actually ordered the components for me as a birthday present!
So I have idea about the mouser ordering Etc..
Someone here will know though!
I checked with mouser.it's alright to get Only one.
By the way, is it necessary to cover the componentes with the special gel to dissipate heat?
We didn't, as long as its a big box with enough air in, it should be fine, my box has never felt 'hot to the touch', even after heavy gigs.
If it'd put your mind at rest, it wouldn't do any harm..
George, by the way, what impedances does this projecto work with?my amp is eorking on 8ohms at the mo.
8 Ohms is fine, that's what I run my amp on.
Quote from: hammerheadmusicman on September 18, 2013, 09:27:56 AM
8 Ohms is fine, that's what I run my amp on.
Cool, actually, the original appears to match the impedance of the amp, so I believe this one does the same.
I think I have one more silly question to you, this one is technical.On the magnet how do we measure the resistance, is it with all of the circuit connected, or prior to that just the magnet itself?!
I put the 15W version of this in a Valve Jr, and the 50W version in my Blues Jr - both work fine.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=260-262 (http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=260-262)
They also have a nice faceplate
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=260-271 (http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=260-271)
It's an L-pad and costs <$20. I just drill a whole in the side of the head and stall this. Looks pretty good, works great, when the level is 0, it basically takes the L-pad out of the circuit so you it doesn't interfere with tone.
I've been totally impressed with PE too, top notch service and super cheep prices.
At this price, you can try it and see if you like it before you spend $80 on parts to make something more complex - I was going down that path but tried this and was satisfied.
Well, my order has been placed already, will be doing the entire project.
How do we measure the L pad, is it with everything put together already, or before soldering everything, or it doesn't matter?
Quote from: hammerheadmusicman on September 17, 2013, 12:24:09 PM
We didn't, as long as its a big box with enough air in, it should be fine, my box has never felt 'hot to the touch', even after heavy gigs.
If it'd put your mind at rest, it wouldn't do any harm..
George, a Technical question.The l pad that will have three different values, how do i make the measurement;do I do it before or after putting everything together!?d'you know what I mean?
No idea I'm afraid. Never built one.
G
Quote from: gtr2 on September 15, 2013, 12:41:47 AM
http://www.tedweber.com/atten.htm
+9000 on this.
Weber attenuators are the best.
Quote from: hammerheadmusicman on September 19, 2013, 04:36:26 PM
No idea I'm afraid. Never built one.
G
You never built one????????????
I'm confused, didn't you write this:"I have a dr z maz 18 amp, and I built a dr z air brake.
The break lite is up to 45 watts, and the air brake is the pricey one which does up to 100 watts.
I built an air brake and it sound killer.
I used this layout, complete with mouser numbers!
Be sure to buy the taps for the resistor, as they don't come with it.
http://www.andyharrison.net/files/AirbrakeLayout.jpg
Like I said, I use mine all the time, and it's not a tone destroyer like a lot of these kind of devices.
George"
Is thought you were asking me about the L pad, which I have never built.
Sorry, I mean the one of the resistors used to make the attenuator.One of them is a fixed resistor, and the other one has three values of resistance.I know I should measure it with a DMM, but my question is:Should it be doone on it's own before the assemblement, or after everything being assembled?
Sorry, I thought the resistors/magnets were called Lpads... :) I now know they are wirewound resistors
Yes, measure it before it goes in, that's what I did I think.
Thank you George.
I've started measuring and drilling.
On the rottary switch, do the pins that are in red, are they jumpered together, and where should I lock it, on the sixth pin????
By the way, on the diagram, which one is ground and wich one is tip on the switches?
http://ampgarage.com/forum/files/attenuator_layout_final_195.pdf
I used the old diagram, I am no authority on red things ;)