Sounds great, but I have not boxed it yet because in the "up" position the flange is cutting in and out. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated...
Clock trim set wrong, VCO struggling (this can happen with the diode around the 311) bad solder joint.
Thanks, nothing looks cold. Possibly a bad 311 or diode? I am going to reflow everything around the clock and see if the solder is the issue.
Thanks again!
Not the 311, if it's flanging, that's working, the diode, it has a funny effect and can not work right from the current source. It may be the clock and bias setting though, they interact a bit, also, 9 or 15V? I think the VCO (311 and diode) works better at 15V.
A schottky may do better in the diode spot but i've heard of this issue and never seen a perfect cure, some say a 1N914 or 1N4002 is better... I think if you search DIY stompboxes, someone (I think Gaussmarkov?) did some scope tests.
But it could be a bad joint and could be incorrect setting and a description isn't everything, could be wrong, just sounds familiar.
Voltages may help.
Thanks a ton. Gotta love this community. I will post again when I have results.
Ok, reflowed and socketed the diode around the 311. I am running at 9 volt. With a 1n4001 I am not getting any flange now. I just ordered some 4002s from tayda. To make things more frustrating I am not getting any signal on the collasalus build either. I have built a ton of pedals and not having much luck with my first two flangers...
1n4002 came in today. Still no flange. I hate flangers now. Out of all of the builds I have done only two do not work, collasalus and the current lover.
Do you have any other caps to try in C18?
Might be time for you to post up your full voltages too.
Also, can you describe your issue a little better, does it cut out at the top of the sweep? Randomly cutting in and out?
I got a similar problem an my mistake was that I forgot to jumper the send and return pads together .
Thanks for the help. I will take the time to get voltages out there when I get some time. I jumper end the send and return. I did initially get flanging and it would switch off at the top but since I switched the diodes... Nada. What would you suggest for C18?
This is my last shot at getting a flanger working. (Posted voltages on the collasalus with no luck)...
Here are my voltages with a reference of 9.33V.
3007:
1=9.26
2=.2mv
3=3.1
4=.3mv
5=.3mv
6=9.26
7=8.93
8=8.93
311
1=.5mv
2=varies
3=varies
4=.5mv
5=9.26
6=9.26
7=varies
8=9.26
4013
1=.3mv
2=9.26
3=varies
4=.3mv
5=9.26
6=.5mv
7=.5mv
8 through 11= .1mv
12=9.26
13=.1mv
14=9.26
324n
1=4.57
2=4.27
3=4.51
4=9.27
5=varies
6=varies
7=varies
8=7.96
9=varies
10=varies
11=.2mv
12 through 14 varies
4049
1=9.26
2=9.26
3=.2mv
4=.1mv
5=9.26
6=9.26
7=.3mv
8=.1mv
9=9.26
10=9.26
11=.2mv
12=.2mv
13=2.2mv
14=.2mv
15=9.26
16=1.7mv
4558
1=4.4
2=4.4
3=3.95
4=.2mv
5=4.52
6=4.57
7=4.77
8=9.26
Your clock isn't working (the CD4013) find out why, possibly a bad solder joint, possibly bad ESD handling and it's blown.
The rest seems alright though so that's good.
Replaced the cd4013 but no dice. I am reaching my wits end with this thing!