Hi guys, so I got some waterslide paper on the way and just looking for opinions/help on when you guys that use these design your graphic and labelling do you do it all on one piece or eg. Gain....cut it out, graphic....cut it out and apply. Also looking for tips on applying and sealing the decal. Thanks in advance for any answers.
Waterslides are a good option, however they can be a pain in the ass.
I suggest you do the whole face as one piece, it is just easier that way and you wont have visible seams. This also means you have to layout everything in a graphic program such as Inkscape. The bonus is that the same decal can be used as a drilling template.
You should print your decal, and cut carefully around the border. Let soak in a warm dish of plain water for a minute or two, then the backing will be able to slide off. The tricky part is to slide the decal on the enclosure without stretching it or tearing it. Takes a bit of practice. You will also want some dry paint brushes (small) on hand to smooth the decal and make sure the edges stay down as they should. For clearcoat, there are many choices but acrylic spray can or Envirotex seem to be pretty popular around here.
Quote from: rullywowr on December 31, 2013, 10:18:59 PM
Waterslides are a good option, however they can be a pain in the ass.
I suggest you do the whole face as one piece, it is just easier that way and you wont have visible seams. This also means you have to layout everything in a graphic program such as Inkscape. The bonus is that the same decal can be used as a drilling template.
You should print your decal, and cut carefully around the border. Let soak in a warm dish of plain water for a minute or two, then the backing will be able to slide off. The tricky part is to slide the decal on the enclosure without stretching it or tearing it. Takes a bit of practice. You will also want some dry paint brushes (small) on hand to smooth the decal and make sure the edges stay down as they should. For clearcoat, there are many choices but acrylic spray can or Envirotex seem to be pretty popular around here.
Ok thanks but I don't get how the same decal could be used as a drill template....wouldn't there be a risk of tearing it?
First print it out on regular paper, stick it on the enclosure and either drill right through it or centerpunch the holes.
Once you have the holes, print the same thing on the waterdecal and apply. The holes will fit the markings. ;)
Quote from: muddyfox on December 31, 2013, 10:40:34 PM
First print it out on regular paper, stick it on the enclosure and either drill right through it or centerpunch the holes.
Once you have the holes, print the same thing on the waterdecal and apply. The holes will fit the markings. ;)
Okay....I'm brain dead....thinking bout my new year beer too much haha. That makes total sense. Thanks man :)
It's great in Inkscape because you can put the knobs and hardware on separate layers and just hide them before printing. The alignment functions in Inkscape are really powerful too :)
Oh I forgot to mention that there is this modeling liquid called "micro sol" which helps blend water slides into the surface. This stuff is brushed on and helps "melt" the edges. I use it when I do water slides.
Not sure if you know or not, but there are different papers for different printers ie: laser and inkjet. As mentioned above, you need to seal inkjet images with some type of waterproof sealer, laser decals you do not. I have had small issues with every decal i've done (cracking of the printed image mainly) using inkjet paper, so my advice, is to use laser decal paper. I don't own a laser printer, but now get mine printed at a local copy shop for $1.50 per sheet, perfect every time,all the best, Matt.
I agree with what Ben's said so far. I have used inkjet paper and I've only had one issue with the decal tearing and I think I just soaked it too long. You have to keep checking to see if it's ready to slide off. Also, remember that paper comes in clear or white so make sure you choose the best one for your design. There are lots of ways to decorate your pedals, (and I haven't tried them all) but I love decals either alone or in combination with some other approach.
Quote from: rullywowr on January 01, 2014, 12:58:26 AM
It's great in Inkscape because you can put the knobs and hardware on separate layers and just hide them before printing. The alignment functions in Inkscape are really powerful too :)
+1 Inkscape layers make layouts & alignment pretty straightforward. Another helpful trick is to import the board image from the build doc pdf as the bottom layer. Then you can make sure your drill guides line up with the board components, and that your jacks don't interfere with board placement. Search this forum for 'Pedal Vectorpack', it contains actual sized components - jacks, pots, etc. - which I place on another layer.
Quote from: rullywowr on January 01, 2014, 12:58:26 AM
Oh I forgot to mention that there is this modeling liquid called "micro sol" which helps blend water slides into the surface. This stuff is brushed on and helps "melt" the edges. I use it when I do water slides.
Micro Sol is great I have used it in the past. FYI there is a competing product called Solvaset that is made by Walthers, which is a large model train catalog company. A local model train shop carries it, so that's what I use now.
Quote from: rullywowr on December 31, 2013, 10:18:59 PM
Let soak in a warm dish of plain water for a minute or two, then the backing will be able to slide off.
Lots of good hints. Just a comment on this one:
My experience is that it can take different time depending on what paper (brand?) you use. Sometimes 20 seconds is enough. On the batch i have at hand right now i keep them in water 40-50 seconds. You can learn to sense when de decal is sliding off its backing.
Yeah, definitely don't soak it for to long. Even for a 1590DD size I only soak for about 20-30 seconds in luke warm water. If you soak it to long it makes them to delicate to easily work with. I don't use micro-sol anymore. Once you clearcoat it the waterslide sort of melts in along the edges. I've found the micro sol can sometimes cause "watermark" type residue after clearcoat.
Josh
chromesphere has a tutorial that is how i do it first time i kept rewinding glad he has great way to learn im a subscriber
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XldVuRI41EY
If we only had a video that explained Inkscape that easy
Quote from: bcalla on January 01, 2014, 02:15:54 PM
Quote from: rullywowr on January 01, 2014, 12:58:26 AM
It's great in Inkscape because you can put the knobs and hardware on separate layers and just hide them before printing. The alignment functions in Inkscape are really powerful too :)
+1 Inkscape layers make layouts & alignment pretty straightforward. Another helpful trick is to import the board image from the build doc pdf as the bottom layer. Then you can make sure your drill guides line up with the board components, and that your jacks don't interfere with board placement. Search this forum for 'Pedal Vectorpack', it contains actual sized components - jacks, pots, etc. - which I place on another layer.
I think a video tutorial, or even an expanded post with images, of this Inkscape process would be fantastic. I am planning my first build, and have been struggling with ensuring that everything is aligned perfectly with the drill template in Inkscape. I was thinking of just measuring the drill holes on the printed pdf, and then using the Inkscape measuring tools to ensure that it is aligned.
I will try and come up with a tutorial soon. Once you get the hang of Inkscape, its really a super helpful tool which nets you both a great graphic and a drilling template.
Quote from: rullywowr on January 08, 2014, 05:46:17 PM
I will try and come up with a tutorial soon. Once you get the hang of Inkscape, its really a super helpful tool which nets you both a great graphic and a drilling template.
it seems to be an incredibly powerful tool... i'll be anxiously awaiting your tutorial!
I'd created box/drill templates in a CAD program based on the Geofex article long before i came across Inkscape. Still use the CAD program to create the drill template, print that out and use it to drill the enclosure.
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/CaveDwellerCAD_zps870bcd50.jpg)
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/IMG_4500.jpg)
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/IMG_1199.jpg)
Next i'll print the CAD drill template to pdf then import the pdf into Inkscape, overlay with the VectorPack objects and figure out the possible graphics, lettering and colouring for the pedal.
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/CaveDwellerInkscape_zpsd45ed41e.jpg)
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/Cave%20Dweller/IMG_5379_zps61ac80f6.jpg)(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/Cave%20Dweller/IMG_5380_zps12440d5b.jpg)
dave