madbeanpedals::forum

Gonna have a go at the Slambox as my first build.  Am I taking on too much if I want to fit it in a 1590A enclosure?  Thanks!

i think you'll be fine. 1590A width is 1.52 inches. I can't find the dimensions of the fabbed slambox boards but the etch design is .942" by 1.022".  The fabbed ones shouldn't be MUCH bigger so i would say its gonna fit but its gonna be a little tight! It you want something easier to work with go with a slightly bigger enclosure like 1590B(http://www.mammothelectronics.com/4S1590B-p/500-1000.htm) or a deeper enclosure like 125B(http://www.mammothelectronics.com/4S125B-p/500-1002.htm) Totally up to you and how big you want the pedal to be :)

Thanks Magic.  I'm really looking for a small footprint so I think I'll give it a shot.  Can always put it in a bigger box if I can't make it work.  I've seen some people have done it, but I'm pretty much a noob, so we'll see how much of a mess I can make of it.

Yes, it would EASILY fit into a 1590A box. I've done it.

Jacob

Honestly, the more challenging jobs are what have given me the most experience and make the easy ones a breeze. You can probably also fit the board standing up against the sides with a little sticky tape :)

If you plan and drill correctly you'll have no problems.  Here is a fatpants build in a 1590a with a gut shot, the circuit is roughly the same size maybe smaller with the fabbed board..

http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=829.0

josh

Just take your time. They are challenging to drill, you don't want to rush, but it's very doable. Good luck!

Here is the one I did in a 1590a: http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=926.0

I was a little off in my drilling which made one of the jacks a little snug against the switch. But, other than that it fits perfectly. If you get the drilling right, the rest is easy.

J

Thanks everyone for the input.  John...I like your build, especially the big chrome knob.  Very cool.  Did you put some foam or something in the bottom cover to keep it isolated from the circuit board?   

I'm having a few questions about ordering the correct parts (C1 in particular).  Should I create a new thread for that?

Thanks again.   Great forum.
...Dave

Go for it. What is your question?

OK...I'll noob it up some more... ;D

The parts list specifies Xicon General or Hi-Temp radial electrolytic 25v caps.  Does this apply to all 3 caps, or only to C2 and C3? 

Isn't C1 an axial?  Also, from reading other threads, it looks like C1 should be a poly film cap?  Should it also be 25V?  100n = .1nf, right?  Trying to find most of the stuff on SmallBear (simpler than mouser).

...Dave

C2 and C3 are Electrolytic. C1 is not axial, it's radial but it's a film cap.

An easy way to see this is by checking the layout. If it's a circle for the cap, it's an electrolytic. If it's a box or rectangle, it's supposed to be a film. If it's an oval, you can use a film or a ceramic for that one.

100nF is .1uF. You should always use caps rated higher than the voltage needed. The Cap you want for C1 is a Topmay box cap, and for C2 and C3 you should be using Radial Electrolytic caps. You can use the 25v or higher variety. Mouser is more complicated in some senses, but in the near future that may become much, much easier.

Jacob

Here is something I recommend everyone prints out and keeps on their workbench.
http://www.justradios.com/uFnFpF.html (http://www.justradios.com/uFnFpF.html)

Quote from: Agavetele on March 08, 2011, 09:13:32 PM
Thanks everyone for the input.  John...I like your build, especially the big chrome knob.  Very cool.  Did you put some foam or something in the bottom cover to keep it isolated from the circuit board?   

Thanks!

I just used electrical tape on the bottom cover to prevent shorting. Sometimes I will also use the thick foam double-sided tape, then put electrical tape over that to make a cushioned thing. Just to keep the board from moving around I guess. Pretty much anything to keep away the metal on metal contact.

J

Looking for R1 and R2.  Am I crazy or does Small Bear not have 10M metal film resistors?

Not metal film, but he does in carbon film, which is fine. I've built a bunch of SHOs with 10M carbon films

OK...thanks everyone for the words of wisdom.  Think I'm ready to get the parts ordered.  I'm sure I'll be checking back in when I get everything and can't figure out what goes where.  ???

OK...one more question...there's probably no way to fit a battery in the 1590A, right?  So just go with two mono jacks and no battery clip?

If you look at Myramyd's completed build in a 1590A (which he posted earlier in this thread), there's not much room left. 2 mono jacks and no battery clip would be correct.

I have built two of these and found it was alot easier to use the two mono jacks. And your right, you cant fit a battery in there so it makes sense. A couple notes that helped me out
Careful with drilling the enclosure! its easy to drill too close
I pre-bend the solder tabs on the jacks inwards a little bit before i solder to give me a little more clearance and you can check it easily by inserting a cable to make sure you dont bend too far
I also used electrical tape on the bottom to help from shorting when the cover is on.

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