Guy listed a broken MB Kingslayer on CL. Said he let a friend borrow it and it came back not working and the friend won't return his calls. I'm relatively new to pedal building (9 builds under my belt). Am I wrong in thinking this should be a doable fix? I am supposing he either plugged in a power supply with the wrong polarity or maybe plugged in an 18v power supply. In either case, wouldn't it just be a matter of replacing a few components. Or am I asking for it.
probably the zener has died. a friend did the exact sam thing to me, and replacing the zener fixed it.
He's interested in an Iron Bell clone I did. I know there's no way to know for sure the issue but I wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something. I guess worse case scenerio is having to replace a 14 pin IC with no socket, in which case I'd probably just harvest for hardware;). Wouldn't think it would be an issue with the IC though.
Bottom line is, I just don't quite have the self confidence in this hobby that I'd like just yet!
I think trading a working pedal for a faulty pedal could very well be a bad deal on your end.
It could be the Zener that has blown, or the Voltage inverter, or it could also be a multitude of other things.
If its damaged, I would try a low ball offer ($25.00 for example) and see what gives.
A working pedals value is VERY different from a faulty pedals value.
Great point RaulDuke. I've tried to sell this pedal since August with no luck. I like the pedal but I found that I don't have use for it. I've tried to sell it for as little as $30. That said you still make a great point.
Seeing as your pedal is worth about $30 to you...I think it would be a fair trade only if the Kingslayer is a fabbed board (not etched) and you like the enclosure art. If the board is etched it is more prone to failure especially during rework/repair.
As mentioned, a good guess is that the Zener probably failed or an IC or two is shot. No big deal in either case even if you dont have a desoldering iron. If the IC is soldered directly to the board you can clip the pins off of it and then use your iron and a pair of small needlenose pliers to pull each leg out individually.
I have a very small pair of right angle needlenose pliers which I love for working with PCBs. It's pretty much the only kind of pliers I use when working on PCBs and it rocks. You may be able to find pliers like this in either a hardware store or a craft store (with the beading supplies).
Thanks rullywowr. Thanks for the tip re: etched vs fabbed. I'm taking my screwdriver to the meetup. The enclosure is powder coated blue with no artwork. I can repurpose it if it's a wash. I'm going for. That j's for the feedback guys!
I done did the deal. All ICs were socketed. Fabbed Sunking board. Matte black powder coated enclosure. Pretty solder joints. Feel encouraged. Now, how to trouble shoot this thing. Dude said the led doesn't light up. Probably won't get to it till this weekend.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/15/tahuteze.jpg)
Burn mark on the double sided tape under D3.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/15/yma4u3yn.jpg)
I see the MAX1044 in there too ::)
Might want to replace that with the TC1044S or the ICL7660S.
If they plugged in a PS that was providing anything over 10.0000000000001VDC then that is probably a goner! :-\
Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on January 14, 2014, 06:56:23 PM
If they plugged in a PS that was providing anything over 10.0000000000001VDC then that is probably a goner! :-\
This made me lol.
I really hate that chip.
So it's a Sunking...not a Kingslayer. ;D Nonetheless, looks pretty clean and I'd say you did well.
D3 is the Zener and if there is a burn mark under it, it's a safe bet that it may be shea-doobied. After that checks out I would begin checking for +18v (or around that) on the cathode of D5. This will let you know if the CP is working. Might as well just replace it with a TC1044SCPA.
Also you may want to put a DMM on the foam itself and measure its resistance. Sometimes, foam can conduct electricity and cause shorts etc.
Fairly clean looking guts inside...cool deal.
So the Zener won't necessarily protect the IC?
If the zenier is dead, then it's not protecting the IC anymore - it did the best it could. It really only protects against transients.
Thanks, I had assumed that the power would no long move across the diode.
Diodes can fail open or closed, many times closed. :)
Quote from: midwayfair on January 14, 2014, 07:11:13 PM
Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on January 14, 2014, 06:56:23 PM
If they plugged in a PS that was providing anything over 10.0000000000001VDC then that is probably a goner! :-\
This made me lol.
I really hate that chip.
Yeah.... But, whats worse is the fact that....
I have about 30 of them here that are collecting dust! Cant sell them off as no one would use/need them :-\
Not worth the eBay hassle either :-[
Is the only difference between the sunking and Kingslayer the diode toggle and OD toggle?
No there are quite considerable differences.
Have a look at the schematics.
In short though, the sun king is a Klon clone, the kingslayer is mad beans take on the Klon concept and functionality.
If the guy told you it was a kingslayer he has mislead you somewhat.
He told me it was a Klon clone and he just bought it. I assumed he meant he bought it new. Made the next logical assumption that it was a Kingslayer because the Sunking PCBs are no longer being sold. You know what they say when you assume you make an 'ass' out if 'u' and 'me'.
He had said it was Madbean. Btw, I replaced the diode. Am I correct in thinking that the voltage will not travel through the circuit if the IC is blow. I am getting voltage at the 9v+ pad on the pcb but no where else.
A sunking is actual pretty desirable because it's out of production, it's a direct klon clone, and it's a madbean board. :)
Did you check the cathode (stripe side) voltage at D5? You should be seeing something like 17-18v. If not, the charge pump is probably shot. If so you should replace it with a TC1044scpa.
If the IC is blown you should still see voltages on the board unless there is another direct short somewhere which in that case something would be hot and the power supply would be crying (or resetting if it has protection).
Let us know how you make out.
I replaced the MAX with the TC1044SPCA. Then started smelling melting electronics. Who ever had assembled the pedal originally had the IC2 and IC3 mixed up! I put in the old MAX in the correct place in addition to replacing the Zener and ...
Functioning Sunking running at 17+ volts!!
Thanks for all your help guys!
Quote from: PhiloB on January 18, 2014, 11:50:10 PM
I replaced the MAX with the TC1044SPCA. Then started smelling melting electronics. Who ever had assembled the pedal originally had the IC2 and IC3 mixed up! I put in the old MAX in the correct place in addition to replacing the Zener and ...
Functioning Sunking running at 17+ volts!!
Thanks for all your help guys!
That's great! You let the "smoke out" lol. Surprising the chips were mixed up because the wiring and everything else looks so clean. Psyched you got it up and running.
Thanks for all your help rullywowr!