madbeanpedals::forum

So I've decided to make pedals for the guys in my wedding in June. I want to finish them with graphics that contain white elements, so I'm leaning towards using sticker paper. My question is, can I clear coat over a powder coated enclosure (those available from PPP)?

I want to clear coat over the sticker paper to make it seamless and keep it from coming up off of the enclosure. I'm just not sure if the clear coat would stick to the powder coating or if it would mess up the color or even the stickers. Also, if I CAN clear coat it, what TYPE of clear coat? Acrylic, poly, etc?

Thanks guys.

Hey Jacob!
Yes, you can clear coat your pedals from PPP. I have done this already and had great results. I got a can of Krylon gloss clear coat from Wal Mart. Here's the same stuff in Sears:
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPM195773463P?prdNo=24&blockNo=24&blockType=G24

Good luck and congratulations on your wedding! ;D  

-Kaleb

So it didn't mess up the powder coating or the decals at all?

(Thanks btw lol)

Nope! Not at all...The way I do it it's pretty similar to the way people do it around here...although I used waterslide decals (sorry, just caught that detail) shouldn't make a difference though, in my opinion. But at least the way I do it is spray 2-3 light coats over the decals and let them dry. Something I like to do is to spray a coat over the enclosure without the decals first which I think will help the decals "stick" a little better over the enclosure. Let it dry, slide the decals over and then finish it off with 2-3 coats of clear. I've had pretty good results this way. :) Hope that helps!

-Kaleb

Yeah that helps a ton! I was kinda paranoid about messing up the enclosure and having to order a replacement lol. Thanks again!!

Hey guys I am just about to try painting some enclosures. Do I have to put a primer on first or do I just sand the enclosure. I plan on just using spray cans from Wal-Mart or Canadian Tire (same idea as Walmart).

Also, has anyone used the paints that are supposed to offer a "crackle" finish or stone finish?
or the ones that are supposed to turn out looking like brass, gold, silver, ect?

Thanks Team,

Scott

I use eniacmike's polycrylic spray method.  I like it much more than spraying krylon clear.  It doesn't have that perfectly smooth finish like a nice clear coat, but it looks great and is much easier to get pleasing results.

Quote from: eniacmike on December 29, 2010, 03:18:05 AM
I have a brother printer and use LAZERTRAN brand water slide decal paper. they sell it at my local craft store (texas art supply). I have also used the lazertran paper with lexmark printers.

I had the problem of toner falling off when I used my moms epson color lazer printer but she uses her printer like crazy so it might have been a problem with her printer, or the color stuff.

I never clearcoat before I put it the decals on, always after.

to save paper I combine projects into half sheets with 3 pedals, then I cut the page in half and run the second batch through the manual feed.

I soak the paper under running water in the sink and rub around till it turns from white to grey then apply the decals, cut out with an xacto knife all the holes.

Then I let it sit for a few hours, or overnight if you are patient enough.

check for air bubbles in good light at different angles.

Then I use:(http://di102.shoppingshadow.com/images/di/59/6b/32/34316a4c67595168434a2d4d55333855795841-149x149-0-0.jpg)
minwax polyacrylic. cleans up with water, dries in 30 minutes. recoat every 30 minutes. I do about three coats then you can handle it in an hour and assemble the pedal. I let the pedal sit upside down on the knobs and the switches for 24 hours to cure.

I am really impatient and I also don't have a garage so I found the poly acrylic is the best for "living" with the fumes. it smells like roach spray, but doesn't give me headaches.

Quote from: sgmezei on March 17, 2011, 07:13:12 PM
Hey guys I am just about to try painting some enclosures. Do I have to put a primer on first or do I just sand the enclosure. I plan on just using spray cans from Wal-Mart or Canadian Tire (same idea as Walmart).

Also, has anyone used the paints that are supposed to offer a "crackle" finish or stone finish?
or the ones that are supposed to turn out looking like brass, gold, silver, ect?

Thanks Team,

Scott

I would always sand a lot and prime them first.  I don't paint enclosures any more though.  I buy them powder coated, decal them, and use the process I listed above.  Unless you are painting your enclosures all the same color the paint and enclosure cost end up more than just buying a powder coated enclosure.  Plus the time involved...

Josh

Yeah the cost thing is why I didn't dive into it. I actually just posted some pics that I covered in fabric.

What kind of primer did you use? or which should I use is what I'm trying to say.

Thanks

Aluminum etching primer. Comes in a dark grey. It adheres so well, make sure you do a really great job on your sanding though.

Jacob

Thanks team for the help. What grit should I start with and what should I end with?

I'd start at either 80 or 120, move to:
180
240
400
600
800
1000/1200

Now, you don't have to do all of them, but you might see a difference. But don't scrimp on the low ones. Here's a list for using less:

80
120
180
240
400
800
1200

Jacob

I dont know about auto parts stores up there in the states, some places sell an assortment of papers in one package.  A good way to get just one sheet each instead of buying a pack of each grit.

When using this process do you have to sand the clear coat?

Quote from: gtr2 on March 17, 2011, 07:17:25 PM
I use eniacmike's polycrylic spray method.  I like it much more than spraying krylon clear.  It doesn't have that perfectly smooth finish like a nice clear coat, but it looks great and is much easier to get pleasing results.

Quote from: eniacmike on December 29, 2010, 03:18:05 AM
I have a brother printer and use LAZERTRAN brand water slide decal paper. they sell it at my local craft store (texas art supply). I have also used the lazertran paper with lexmark printers.

I had the problem of toner falling off when I used my moms epson color lazer printer but she uses her printer like crazy so it might have been a problem with her printer, or the color stuff.

I never clearcoat before I put it the decals on, always after.

to save paper I combine projects into half sheets with 3 pedals, then I cut the page in half and run the second batch through the manual feed.

I soak the paper under running water in the sink and rub around till it turns from white to grey then apply the decals, cut out with an xacto knife all the holes.

Then I let it sit for a few hours, or overnight if you are patient enough.

check for air bubbles in good light at different angles.

Then I use:(http://di102.shoppingshadow.com/images/di/59/6b/32/34316a4c67595168434a2d4d55333855795841-149x149-0-0.jpg)
minwax polyacrylic. cleans up with water, dries in 30 minutes. recoat every 30 minutes. I do about three coats then you can handle it in an hour and assemble the pedal. I let the pedal sit upside down on the knobs and the switches for 24 hours to cure.

I am really impatient and I also don't have a garage so I found the poly acrylic is the best for "living" with the fumes. it smells like roach spray, but doesn't give me headaches.

Nope.  That stuff comes off in sheets if you do.  Just follow the instructions on the can if you use it as far as re-coat times.  I spray the coats a little heavier with this product than a normal clear coat, but not enough to "run".  Here's an example of an older build post using this method.  I've been bad at posting recent builds...

http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=939.0

josh

Quote from: gtr2 on March 17, 2011, 07:22:07 PM

I would always sand a lot and prime them first.  I don't paint enclosures any more though.  I buy them powder coated, decal them, and use the process I listed above.  Unless you are painting your enclosures all the same color the paint and enclosure cost end up more than just buying a powder coated enclosure.  Plus the time involved...

Josh

Josh,

I'm considering trying the Polycrylic you posted about, but I'm concerned about the adhesion to the powdercoat.  Everyone says you need the paint for plastic or you'll get flaking.  Do you do anything special to the base before clearing?  It almost sounds too good to be true, but if it if, it sounds like the ultimate in simplicity.

Thanks,
George

George,

I do nothing to the powdercoated enclosure, it adheres fine.  The polycrylic kind of bonds to itself if that makes any sense...  I just wipe it off to take any oils from my handling before I spray.  It's as simple as it seems  :o

Josh

Thanks Josh,

That sounds VERY cool.  I'm getting ready to buy my first powder coated boxes from PPP and will try my new DecalProFx system when they get here.  With the polycrylic the finish will be so easy it will be like cheating.  I almost feel guilty!

Thanks again,
George