Now I just need 500m of Juan & Cleggy's mean green.
Hah, just wait till you've worked a piece of solid core too much and it breaks... and you spend a long time searching on the PCB for the error.
Time and a place for everything.
Change your life, brah. (http://www.smallbearelec.com/servlet/Detail?no=903)
Quote from: alanp on March 03, 2014, 04:06:56 AM
Hah, just wait till you've worked a piece of solid core too much and it breaks... and you spend a long time searching on the PCB for the error.
Time and a place for everything.
Absolutely this. Stranded wire, while a pain at times, is generally more reliable in anything where wires are moved around (sometimes even if just during assembly).
Quote from: jubal81 on March 03, 2014, 04:11:47 AM
Change your life, brah. (http://www.smallbearelec.com/servlet/Detail?no=903)
That's my preferred wire as well. I just wish that they hadn't changed to a version with a thicker jacket. It's still my favorite, but not as nice as before.
I usually use SB's #22 Pre-Bond
Quote from: timbo_93631 on March 03, 2014, 04:47:15 AM
I usually use SB's #22 Pre-Bond
I was using only the #24 until my last order, when I ordered the #22 because #24 was out of stock. The #22 seemed to be lower quality to me - the bonding seemed to come apart when I'd bend the stripped wire (say to crimp it to a pot or switch lug), whereas on the #24 I could bend it and it'd stay together. Did anyone else run into this, or did I maybe just get a bad batch?
Quote from: jubal81 on March 03, 2014, 04:11:47 AM
Change your life, brah. (http://www.smallbearelec.com/servlet/Detail?no=903)
this is what I am using and I love it as well
Quote from: timbo_93631 on March 03, 2014, 04:47:15 AM
I usually use SB's #22 Pre-Bond
#24 bonded all the way!
24AWG pre-bonded ribbon is the holy grail if you can find it. Hitachi make it, but it's commercial only as far as I can tell and I've only been able to recover it out of old Japanese HiFis.
Otherwise I use our remaining stock of the 0.6mm solid core Eagle Equipment wire (now OOP). Really good solid, resists breaks much better than any solid I've ever used. Still you never over work solid. Get it right first time or bin it and use another piece.
The other stuff I use is some NOS 20 conductor 24AWG ribbon I've got. Again, once that's gone, it's gone. But it's the best stuff I've ever used outside the Hitachi. Not pre-bond, but it's proper super high quality stuff. Weighs a tonne.
I have some teflon pre bonded wire that is pretty nice... but I just can't get those beautiful guts that I see from some of you with it.
Quote from: juansolo on March 03, 2014, 03:25:46 PM
24AWG pre-bonded ribbon is the holy grail if you can find it.
If anyone ever finds this, I would totally want some. 6 conductor would be the cat's whiskers.
Quote from: playpunk on March 03, 2014, 03:32:57 PM
I have some teflon pre bonded wire that is pretty nice... but I just can't get those beautiful guts that I see from some of you with it.
I haven't worked with Teflon before. How does it strip?
It takes a little elbow persuasion. It does look nice, though, and the insulation is pretty bombproof.
I'd love to experiment with it some time although I don't have trouble with melting insulation. Where do you get it in pre bonded?
Quote from: lincolnic on March 03, 2014, 05:45:43 AM
Quote from: timbo_93631 on March 03, 2014, 04:47:15 AM
I usually use SB's #22 Pre-Bond
I was using only the #24 until my last order, when I ordered the #22 because #24 was out of stock. The #22 seemed to be lower quality to me - the bonding seemed to come apart when I'd bend the stripped wire (say to crimp it to a pot or switch lug), whereas on the #24 I could bend it and it'd stay together. Did anyone else run into this, or did I maybe just get a bad batch?
Yeah, I think the bonding on the #22 is "drier" so to speak, but my auto strippers struggle with #24 and I like the chubby look of the #22. When I route my wires I use two chopsticks to sort of smooth the runs straight. Old habit from amp building. I should say that the #22 from SB is my second choice, but it is readily available. My #1 choice is #22 "topcoat" appliance wire but it isn't always easy to find in smaller quantities.
I got my teflon wire from Sierra Nevada Products on Ebay. It is "silver plated copper wire" 22awg.
It looks pretty similar to this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/50-Mil-Spec-22-AWG-Twisted-Pair-Silver-Plated-Electrical-Wire-Teflon-US-Seller-/310877876540?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4861c3f13c
Quote from: Leevibe on March 03, 2014, 03:39:12 PM
Quote from: juansolo on March 03, 2014, 03:25:46 PM
24AWG pre-bonded ribbon is the holy grail if you can find it.
If anyone ever finds this, I would totally want some. 6 conductor would be the cat's whiskers.
I'd happily buy a reel or two of it. But I've looked everywhere. I had the part number and everything. But I suspect you'd have to be a manufacturer/supplier to buy it and I suspect 2 or 3 100m reels might not be enough. Indeed if it comes on reels that small...
Whenever I've sourced wire, it was a 4k meter minimum. A bit much for a DIYer to chew off but not too bad for a component supplier.
Man, with all the 3pdt daughter boards being sold these days you would think that someone could complement those sales with pre-bonded ribbon. That would be peanut butter and jelly.
Quote from: timbo_93631 on March 03, 2014, 05:39:13 PM
Yeah, I think the bonding on the #22 is "drier" so to speak, but my auto strippers struggle with #24 and I like the chubby look of the #22. When I route my wires I use two chopsticks to sort of smooth the runs straight. Old habit from amp building. I should say that the #22 from SB is my second choice, but it is readily available. My #1 choice is #22 "topcoat" appliance wire but it isn't always easy to find in smaller quantities.
Can you elaborate a bit more on your chopstick method? That sounds pretty handy and I'm always trying to neaten my wiring.
Anyone who fancies it... The best stuff I've ever encountered is the 24AWG stuff on page 77 of the following PDF:
http://www.hitachi-cable.co.jp/ICSFiles/cable/ewc/10/ulcsa/all.pdf
When it's mass is done in kg a km, you know they don't ship small.
This stuff from what I can tell:
(http://www.juansolo.demon.co.uk/misc/ubercable.jpg)
Quote from: juansolo on March 04, 2014, 11:40:28 AM
Anyone who fancies it... The best stuff I've ever encountered is the 24AWG stuff on page 77 of the following PDF:
http://www.hitachi-cable.co.jp/ICSFiles/cable/ewc/10/ulcsa/all.pdf
When it's mass is done in kg a km, you know they don't ship small.
This stuff from what I can tell:
(http://www.juansolo.demon.co.uk/misc/ubercable.jpg)
Is this calling for a group buy?
I use this
http://www.guitarpcb.com/apps/webstore/products/show/2249043
Its the bollocks. But quite pricey.
I got some of that once. Still have most of it left. I wasn't that impressed if I'm honest :o
Quote from: juansolo on March 04, 2014, 01:44:19 PM
I got some of that once. Still have most of it left. I wasn't that impressed if I'm honest :o
I will buy it off you :P . What colour is it? The purple was more fragile for some reason, the other stuff is legit or at least I like it.
Quote from: micromegas on March 04, 2014, 12:51:10 PM
Is this calling for a group buy?
I suspect it'll be eye-wateringly expensive. Then there's finding someone who can buy it (I suspect you'd need to be a distributer)...
Quote from: LaceSensor on March 04, 2014, 01:45:06 PM
Quote from: juansolo on March 04, 2014, 01:44:19 PM
I got some of that once. Still have most of it left. I wasn't that impressed if I'm honest :o
I will buy it off you :P . What colour is it? The purple was more fragile for some reason, the other stuff is legit or at least I like it.
LOL it is purple and you can have it. PM me your address and I'll dig it out and fire it over to you when I find it.
Quote from: LaceSensor on March 04, 2014, 01:37:19 PM
I use this
http://www.guitarpcb.com/apps/webstore/products/show/2249043
Its the bollocks. But quite pricey.
Same here. Best I can buy for the money...
sent from my mobile device
Quote from: muddyfox on March 04, 2014, 03:59:00 PM
Quote from: LaceSensor on March 04, 2014, 01:37:19 PM
I use this
http://www.guitarpcb.com/apps/webstore/products/show/2249043
Its the bollocks. But quite pricey.
Same here. Best I can buy for the money...
sent from my mobile device
Has anyone compared this to the bonded that small bear sells? How is it better? I like getting the SB #24 on 50' spools for $5. I think it's perfect and it would probably take something with unicorn tears in it or something to get me to upgrade.
Quote from: Leevibe on March 04, 2014, 04:18:27 PM
Quote from: muddyfox on March 04, 2014, 03:59:00 PM
Quote from: LaceSensor on March 04, 2014, 01:37:19 PM
I use this
http://www.guitarpcb.com/apps/webstore/products/show/2249043
Its the bollocks. But quite pricey.
Same here. Best I can buy for the money...
sent from my mobile device
Has anyone compared this to the bonded that small bear sells? How is it better? I like getting the SB #24 on 50' spools for $5. I think it's perfect and it would probably take something with unicorn tears in it or something to get me to upgrade.
I have both and like SB #24 better. That being said, GPCB is fine it's just a little too thin for my taste. That being said, GPCB wire might be better for people that do super tight fits. I haven't had any issues with either.
Quote from: lincolnic on March 04, 2014, 05:09:40 AM
Can you elaborate a bit more on your chopstick method? That sounds pretty handy and I'm always trying to neaten my wiring.
Basically I pin one end of the wire against the side of the enclosure with one chopstick and make a nice 90 degree turn using the other chopstick to sort of pinch the 90 into the wire on the outside edge of the turn so to speak. Then I'll keep the chopstick in place and burnish the wire so it doesn't have any little waviness where it runs along the enclosure side, make another 90 back away from the side to the switch or whatever.
Maybe I can shoot a little time lapse final wiring of a pedal...
Quote from: timbo_93631 on March 05, 2014, 06:20:00 AM
Basically I pin one end of the wire against the side of the enclosure with one chopstick and make a nice 90 degree turn using the other chopstick to sort of pinch the 90 into the wire on the outside edge of the turn so to speak. Then I'll keep the chopstick in place and burnish the wire so it doesn't have any little waviness where it runs along the enclosure side, make another 90 back away from the side to the switch or whatever.
Maybe I can shoot a little time lapse final wiring of a pedal...
How does this work on tight builds?
And I can't say I can fully picture the process, if you could film it it'd be great!
Quote from: timbo_93631 on March 05, 2014, 06:20:00 AM
Quote from: lincolnic on March 04, 2014, 05:09:40 AM
Can you elaborate a bit more on your chopstick method? That sounds pretty handy and I'm always trying to neaten my wiring.
Basically I pin one end of the wire against the side of the enclosure with one chopstick and make a nice 90 degree turn using the other chopstick to sort of pinch the 90 into the wire on the outside edge of the turn so to speak. Then I'll keep the chopstick in place and burnish the wire so it doesn't have any little waviness where it runs along the enclosure side, make another 90 back away from the side to the switch or whatever.
Maybe I can shoot a little time lapse final wiring of a pedal...
Thanks! That makes sense to me, but it'd probably be fun to see a time lapse anyway.
I'd be keen to see a video if you have the time.
Neat wiring is not something that comes easy for me. It's one thing I really dread when comes time to box.