Quick question....
I have some 3PDT Wiring boards from 1776, SmallBear, and GPCB and I was wondering what you need to do if you want to use the LED on the main PCB board and not the 3PDT board. Do you need to put a jumper anywhere?
Also, are there any advantages/disadvantages to using the LED on the 3PDT board vs. the main PCB. Any mods for using both?
Thanks,
Noob
If you have onboard LEDs then just follow the instructions for one. If in doubt find the schematics for the boards and make sure the LED positive is connected to 9v and a current limiting resistor on one aside and that when the effect is switched on the negative side of the LED gets grounded
Quote from: peAk on March 08, 2014, 01:53:22 AM
Quick question....
I have some 3PDT Wiring boards from 1776, SmallBear, and GPCB and I was wondering what you need to do if you want to use the LED on the main PCB board and not the 3PDT board. Do you need to put a jumper anywhere?
Also, are there any advantages/disadvantages to using the LED on the 3PDT board vs. the main PCB. Any mods for using both?
Thanks,
Noob
I don't think there are any advantages/disadvantages to speak of. The important thing is to make sure the cathode of the led is connected to the 3PDT. If the PCB has a board mounted led there will be an associated pad that is supposed to be connected to the 3pdt. This connection is what makes the led turn on and off when the switch is engaged. Make sure to run a wire from that pad to the pad on the 3pdt daughterboard that your would normally stick the LED cathode through. (cathode = square side of the led). Hope this helps!
Quote from: Stomptown on March 08, 2014, 03:53:12 AM
Quote from: peAk on March 08, 2014, 01:53:22 AM
Quick question....
I have some 3PDT Wiring boards from 1776, SmallBear, and GPCB and I was wondering what you need to do if you want to use the LED on the main PCB board and not the 3PDT board. Do you need to put a jumper anywhere?
Also, are there any advantages/disadvantages to using the LED on the 3PDT board vs. the main PCB. Any mods for using both?
Thanks,
Noob
I don't think there are any advantages/disadvantages to speak of. The important thing is to make sure the cathode of the led is connected to the 3PDT. If the PCB has a board mounted led there will be an associated pad that is supposed to be connected to the 3pdt. This connection is what makes the led turn on and off when the switch is engaged. Make sure to run a wire from that pad to the pad on the 3pdt daughterboard that your would normally stick the LED cathode through. (cathode = square side of the led). Hope this helps!
yes, it definitely helps!
So basically you would have your LED wired like normal to the LED anode/cathode on the main board but you would also have another wire coming from that same cathode going to the cathode on the daughter 3PDT? If that is correct, anything you need to do with the anode on the daughter 3PDT? And what about the resistor? Would it serve as the same function (LED Brightness) just applied to the LED on the main pcb?
Hope I was clear with my questions :-\
Sounds like you understand the concept. You do not need to add a resistor to the daughter board and you can leave the annode pad on the daughter board empty. There should however be an extra pad on the main PCB that is electrically connected to the cathode. This pad is what you should connect to the cathode pad in the daughter board. here is a main PCB with a pad labeled "SW" that is meant to connect to the cathode spot in the daughter board.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/09/y2avuraq.jpg)
Just connect SW (the PCB designer may have used a different naming convention) to the square side of the led shown on the silk screen. Never trust that the square led pad is connected to the annode. Some PCB designers use parts that have the square pad the the cathode and vise versa. The silk screen never lies!
Thanks stomptown
what a day this has been,.....not a good pedal building day, that's for sure.
I tried using a 1776 3PDT board but boy, I just couldn't get it (Sharkfin) working. I am not sure what was going on.
After a little bit of confusion and RobA's help, I realized that the Sharkfin actually has two LEDs. So I thought "okay...perfect, I will use the 1776 Daughter board LED for my main bypass LED and the onboard LED will be for the rate"
Well, after looking at this build report http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=14198.msg131901#msg131901 and wiring it up what I thought was the exact same way, I couldn't get any sound other than bypass and my bypass LED kept getting hot and dimming out. I checked the LED to make sure it wasn't backwards and it wasn't. I tried other LEDs and same thing.
Now I am at the point of just wanting to skip the 3DPT daughter board and wire it up the traditional way.
I am sure I am doing something stupid and being a total noob but I have never had this much trouble before and I really haven't even gotten to the hard part which is setting up the Sharkfin's trims.
Somebody throw a life preserver, I am sinking over here!!
(goes grabs a beer)
Did you solder the lugs to the 3pdt board so the holes in the lugs point north to south?
Quote from: rullywowr on March 09, 2014, 12:49:41 AM
Did you solder the lugs to the 3pdt board so the holes in the lugs point north to south?
Yes, I don't even think they would fit the other way...unless I am misunderstanding you?
the thru holes are going north and south
Did you rock it before you boxed it? Can you post some pics?
Quote from: Stomptown on March 09, 2014, 01:14:19 AM
Did you rock it before you boxed it? Can you post some pics?
No, I haven't boxed it.
I can shoot a pic and post it.
One sec
I will split these photos up so I can have them a bit larger
FYI, the LEDs are disconnected
Let me know if you need me to zoom in on something else.
BTW, I tried connecting the 9V on the daughter board to the 9V on the main PCB but it didn't change anything. The first way I hooked it up was the way it was hooked up in that build report link I posted earlier.
Cool! I will look it over and get back to you. After looking at the schematic I noticed this is a negative ground circuit with a voltage inverter at the front end of the power section. It is very possible that you wired it in a way that is sending negative voltage where is shouldn't...
Quote from: Stomptown on March 09, 2014, 01:45:50 AM
Cool! I will look it over and get back to you. After looking at the schematic I noticed this is a negative ground circuit with a voltage inverter at the front end of the power section. It is very possible that you wired it in a way that is sending negative voltage where is shouldn't...
I appreciate man, please don't spend too much of your time on it. If you see something glaringly obvious, awesome...but if not, I will just disconnect the daughter board and follow the traditional madbean wiring diagram. I read through the building docs a few times but I didn't see anything that stood out as being different. Unfortunately, I am still learning to read schematics so I wouldn't have caught anything there.
Everything looks good to me. No obvious smoking gun or anything. Before you rip the 3pdt out make sure to double check transistor/electrolytic capacitor/diode orientations and look for cold solder joints. Also double check the wiring to the 3pdt toggle switch. It is possible that you have a solder bridge on the foot switch if you used a lot of solder. Regardless, don't shy away from using daughter boards. I messed up the first one I used but have never had a problem since. Good luck!
Just a guess. It looks like the rate LED is not connected. I'm not sure on this circuit but there are some where that connection has to be made for it to work. Perhaps you've already tried that but just in case.
Quote from: billstein on March 09, 2014, 02:30:25 AM
Just a guess. It looks like the rate LED is not connected. I'm not sure on this circuit but there are some where that connection has to be made for it to work. Perhaps you've already tried that but just in case.
No, you are correct, both LEDs are disconnected. I was connecting them with alligator clips when testing. I removed the LEDs before the pictures were taken.
Quote from: Stomptown on March 09, 2014, 02:19:15 AM
Everything looks good to me. No obvious smoking gun or anything. Before you rip the 3pdt out make sure to double check transistor/electrolytic capacitor/diode orientations and look for cold solder joints. Also double check the wiring to the 3pdt toggle switch. It is possible that you have a solder bridge on the foot switch if you used a lot of solder. Regardless, don't shy away from using daughter boards. I messed up the first one I used but have never had a problem since. Good luck!
Thanks for your check, I really appreciate it! I have used the GPBC daughter boards before and never had a problem. I am sure I made a mistake somewhere.
I will take another hard look at everything and see if I can see anything. The onboard Rate LED came on and stayed on but the bypass LED was the one that was really acting up and really heating up. Strange
Again, thanks for your help.
Quote from: peAk on March 09, 2014, 02:34:07 AM
Quote from: billstein on March 09, 2014, 02:30:25 AM
Just a guess. It looks like the rate LED is not connected. I'm not sure on this circuit but there are some where that connection has to be made for it to work. Perhaps you've already tried that but just in case.
No, you are correct, both LEDs are disconnected. I was connecting them with alligator clips when testing. I removed the LEDs before the pictures were taken.
Ahhh. That makes sense but sometimes (at least for me) it can be the obvious. Hope you get it worked out.
Quote from: billstein on March 09, 2014, 02:46:14 AM
Quote from: peAk on March 09, 2014, 02:34:07 AM
Quote from: billstein on March 09, 2014, 02:30:25 AM
Just a guess. It looks like the rate LED is not connected. I'm not sure on this circuit but there are some where that connection has to be made for it to work. Perhaps you've already tried that but just in case.
No, you are correct, both LEDs are disconnected. I was connecting them with alligator clips when testing. I removed the LEDs before the pictures were taken.
Ahhh. That makes sense but sometimes (at least for me) it can be the obvious. Hope you get it worked out.
no totally, and I appreciate you looking as well. A lot of times it IS the obvious but it takes those second set of eyes to see.
I need to build a test rig and if I can't get this working soon, I think this is the motivation I need to build one.
Okay guys, just to report, I wired it up the standard way - straight to the 3PDT - no daughter board, and it worked perfectly
Not sure what the problem was before but at this point I don't care and I am just happy I got it working.
On another note, wow....what a crazy effect! I seem to have dialed in the perfect "sample and hold" but the standard filter is a bit strange. I need to go and listen to some demos and see if this is about right.
That's good news! Enjoy your creation!!!
Hot LED followed by it burning out makes me suspect either CLR was somehow not in the LED circuit or that it's value was possibly too low??
Quote from: Leevibe on March 10, 2014, 01:27:59 AM
Hot LED followed by it burning out makes me suspect either CLR was somehow not in the LED circuit or that it's value was possibly too low??
yeah, not sure. I triple checked everything but couldn't figure out what was going on. As soon as I wired it without the 3DPT daughter board, I had no issues.
At least LED's are cheap. The first time I breadboarded a fuzz face I blew up a $20 pair of NPN germaniums because I not only hooked up the battery backwards but I put my reverse polarity protection diode backward. Then to kick me while I was down, I realized the issue and went to remove the diode, which burned a perfect impression of itself into my fingertips. Its shape was molded into my index finger guitar callous for like a week. I still haven't built a successful fuzz after years of building!!