So I got some great advice on drilling methods from many of you....
...now I need some advice on wiring.
When you realize you need your wires to be a little longer than you orginally cut them and you have already soldered them, how do you extend them? Do you just cut the wire, solder another piece, and tape them?
Just trying to get the cleanest method. Desoldering from switches and pots isn't a big deal but don't like to desolder wire from the PCB if I don't have to.
I am trying to get my wiring neater so I can actually post the guts on one of my builds finally ;)
Desolder the old wire off and solder a new wire on.
There is not really any other neat way of doing it.
You could joint a new wire on to the old one. Then cover with heat shrink.
Nothing really wrong with that but it won't look as neat and tidy.
'If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right' ;).
Quote from: raulduke on March 19, 2014, 03:35:27 PM
Desolder the old wire off and solder a new wire one.
There is not really any other neat way of doing it.
You could joint a new wire on to the old one. Then cover with heat shrink.
Nothing really wrong with that but it won't look as neat and tidy.
'If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right' ;).
+1
Quote from: raulduke on March 19, 2014, 03:35:27 PM
Desolder the old wire off and solder a new wire one.
There is not really any other neat way of doing it.
You could joint a new wire on to the old one. Then cover with heat shrink.
Nothing really wrong with that but it won't look as neat and tidy.
'If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right' ;).
....this was the response I was afraid of. I thought someone was going to have some magical, clean way of not having to do this.
A desoldering iron will change your life... :)
If you have to do a butt connection, at least use heat shrink. It's much neater looking and mor reliable than tape.
Quote from: rullywowr on March 19, 2014, 03:55:16 PM
A desoldering iron will change your life... :)
would something like this be okay? or is it kind of, you get what you pay for kind of deal? I went through 3 soldering irons until a ended up with my Hakko.
http://www.amazon.com/ECG-J-045-DS-Watt-Desoldering-Iron/dp/B00068IJSG/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1395245056&sr=1-1&keywords=desoldering+iron
I have that iron and I don't like it. The tip oxidized almost immediately and solder doesn't want to whet to it. I should probably just stock up on tips and live with it. I've reverted to the RS blue cheapie but I would love a good desoldering pump too.
Quote from: Leevibe on March 19, 2014, 04:09:05 PM
I have that iron and I don't like it. The tip oxidized almost immediately and solder doesn't want to whet to it. I should probably just stock up on tips and live with it. I've reverted to the RS blue cheapie but I would love a good desoldering pump too.
I just can't justify spending too much $$$ on a desoldering iron when I don't desolder THAT often. I wonder if that would be good enough? I am pretty good about tinning my tips before I turn it off. When it was new, did it work okay?
Maybe try some tip conditioner (tip tinner), i recently got some of this and it revived some old tips that were headed to the trash. (Very small tin). http://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/0051303199/0051303199-ND/1801474
(http://media.digikey.com/Photos/Apex%20Tool%20Photos/0051303199_sml.jpg)
Quote from: davent on March 19, 2014, 04:26:07 PM
Maybe try some tip conditioner (tip tinner), i recently got some of this and it revived some old tips that were headed to the trash. (Very small tin). http://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/0051303199/0051303199-ND/1801474
(http://media.digikey.com/Photos/Apex%20Tool%20Photos/0051303199_sml.jpg)
I went ahead and ordered that cheap desolder iron along with some of this tip tinner. Hopefully it will be better than what I am using now.....which is pretty much nothing (Solder sucker from RadioShack)
It will be better for sure. Down the road I would recommend picking up a Hakko. I found a 472d on ebay for a good price and there are tons of parts available for it. Others have great luck with the hakko 808
Quote from: peAk on March 19, 2014, 04:22:00 PM
Quote from: Leevibe on March 19, 2014, 04:09:05 PM
I have that iron and I don't like it. The tip oxidized almost immediately and solder doesn't want to whet to it. I should probably just stock up on tips and live with it. I've reverted to the RS blue cheapie but I would love a good desoldering pump too.
I just can't justify spending too much $$$ on a desoldering iron when I don't desolder THAT often. I wonder if that would be good enough? I am pretty good about tinning my tips before I turn it off. When it was new, did it work okay?
Yes, when it was new I loved it. That love lasted for a very short time! I think it would have worked better for me to put it on a rheostat and have it run a little cooler. I do have a little can of that stuff. I think I should buy a new tip and dip it in that a lot. I'm also meticulous about keeping my iron tip tinned, but I think the plating on that thing combined with the high temp make the tips go south quick. I think they run at 45w, which is higher than I need for any PCB desoldering.
I want to get a soldapult or one of those little solder suckers with the flexible silicone tip. If that doesn't work, I want to save up for the Hakko 808. I can't justify spending the money, especially since I just don't do that much desoldering. Still, how cool would it be? As far as dedicated desoldering pumps go, it's relatively inexpensive and it gets very good reviews.
As far as desoldering wire, I find wire to be the easiest thing there is to desolder. Heat it up and pull it out. Clean out the pad and resolder. I use my cheap solder sucker to clean out the pad but I read that just leaving a toothpick in the hole as the solder cools will keep it clear. I want to try that but I keep forgetting to buy toothpicks! At least they fit the budget, right?
Just butt splice in some more wire, and cover it with heat shrink tubing. If anyone tells you it looks ugly, then tell them to shove it.
Also, don't waste your money on a dedicated desoldering iron, just get a decent solder sucker & some desoldering braid. It's not like you're going to be making tons of repeat mistakes, right? I mean, i'll bet you never cut your wires too short ever again ;-)
Quote from: Leevibe on March 19, 2014, 05:06:40 PM
As far as desoldering wire, I find wire to be the easiest thing there is to desolder. Heat it up and pull it out. Clean out the pad and resolder. I use my cheap solder sucker to clean out the pad but I read that just leaving a toothpick in the hole as the solder cools will keep it clear. I want to try that but I keep forgetting to buy toothpicks! At least they fit the budget, right?
Yeah, getting wire out is no problem. It's removing the solder that is a PITA. I just had an experience yesterday where I had a pad come off a PCB. First time that has ever happened to me but it happened while I was try to heat the pcb from one side and use the solder sucker from the other. Oh man, it's such a pain in the butt. The toothpick trick, is that just heat the solder up and stick a toothpick in?
Quote from: peAk on March 19, 2014, 05:14:58 PM
Quote from: Leevibe on March 19, 2014, 05:06:40 PM
As far as desoldering wire, I find wire to be the easiest thing there is to desolder. Heat it up and pull it out. Clean out the pad and resolder. I use my cheap solder sucker to clean out the pad but I read that just leaving a toothpick in the hole as the solder cools will keep it clear. I want to try that but I keep forgetting to buy toothpicks! At least they fit the budget, right?
Yeah, getting wire out is no problem. It's removing the solder that is a PITA. I just had an experience yesterday where I had a pad come off a PCB. First time that has ever happened to me but it happened while I was try to heat the pcb from one side and use the solder sucker from the other. Oh man, it's such a pain in the butt. The toothpick trick, is that just heat the solder up and stick a toothpick in?
Yep. simple and elegant. I can't wait to try it because I usually heat the pad from one side and use the solder sucker from the other. Sometimes I get it first try, sometimes it takes multiple tries.
Quote from: Jefe on March 19, 2014, 05:12:51 PM
Just butt splice in some more wire, and cover it with heat shrink tubing. If anyone tells you it looks ugly, then tell them to shove it.
Also, don't waste your money on a dedicated desoldering iron, just get a decent solder sucker & some desoldering braid. It's not like you're going to be making tons of repeat mistakes, right? I mean, i'll bet you never cut your wires too short ever again ;-)
the problem is, I never EVER think about the enclosure layout until my circuit is finished and working. So I always have these damn pots (I don't use pcb mount pots) hanging off with wire and it's never the right length. It's always too short or too long.
Quote from: Leevibe on March 19, 2014, 05:17:10 PM
Quote from: peAk on March 19, 2014, 05:14:58 PM
Quote from: Leevibe on March 19, 2014, 05:06:40 PM
As far as desoldering wire, I find wire to be the easiest thing there is to desolder. Heat it up and pull it out. Clean out the pad and resolder. I use my cheap solder sucker to clean out the pad but I read that just leaving a toothpick in the hole as the solder cools will keep it clear. I want to try that but I keep forgetting to buy toothpicks! At least they fit the budget, right?
Yeah, getting wire out is no problem. It's removing the solder that is a PITA. I just had an experience yesterday where I had a pad come off a PCB. First time that has ever happened to me but it happened while I was try to heat the pcb from one side and use the solder sucker from the other. Oh man, it's such a pain in the butt. The toothpick trick, is that just heat the solder up and stick a toothpick in?
Yep. simple and elegant. I can't wait to try it because I usually heat the pad from one side and use the solder sucker from the other. Sometimes I get it first try, sometimes it takes multiple tries.
I am sooo there. I do the exact same thing now and I HATE that method and I screwed up a pcb pad yesterday.
Quote from: peAk on March 19, 2014, 05:18:32 PM
Quote from: Jefe on March 19, 2014, 05:12:51 PM
Just butt splice in some more wire, and cover it with heat shrink tubing. If anyone tells you it looks ugly, then tell them to shove it.
Also, don't waste your money on a dedicated desoldering iron, just get a decent solder sucker & some desoldering braid. It's not like you're going to be making tons of repeat mistakes, right? I mean, i'll bet you never cut your wires too short ever again ;-)
the problem is, I never EVER think about the enclosure layout until my circuit is finished and working. So I always have these damn pots (I don't use pcb mount pots) hanging off with wire and it's never the right length. It's always too short or too long.
Chromesphere makes cool little jumpers by putting small spade connectors on one end of a wire that are perfectly sized to slide over the solder lugs of pots. I plan to make some jumpers with the mini spade connectors on one end and test clips on the other. Something like that would allow you to rock before box. Then you could focus on your wiring scheme.
Quote from: Leevibe on March 19, 2014, 05:22:14 PM
Quote from: peAk on March 19, 2014, 05:18:32 PM
Quote from: Jefe on March 19, 2014, 05:12:51 PM
Just butt splice in some more wire, and cover it with heat shrink tubing. If anyone tells you it looks ugly, then tell them to shove it.
Also, don't waste your money on a dedicated desoldering iron, just get a decent solder sucker & some desoldering braid. It's not like you're going to be making tons of repeat mistakes, right? I mean, i'll bet you never cut your wires too short ever again ;-)
the problem is, I never EVER think about the enclosure layout until my circuit is finished and working. So I always have these damn pots (I don't use pcb mount pots) hanging off with wire and it's never the right length. It's always too short or too long.
Chromesphere makes cool little jumpers by putting small spade connectors on one end of a wire that are perfectly sized to slide over the solder lugs of pots. I plan to make some jumpers with the mini spade connectors on one end and test clips on the other. Something like that would allow you to rock before box. Then you could focus on your wiring scheme.
These (http://www.amazon.com/Mini-Grabber-Minigrabber-Color-Interface/dp/B00AH3OYGQ/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1395249883&sr=8-5&keywords=test+clips) are the test clips I'm thinking of getting. I think they're the kind that has the tiny little retractible claw as opposed to just the hook. I have one that works that way and I love it. It grabs ahold of a component lead easily and stays on until you disconnect it. It even works on mounted IC pins.
see, I had a thread a while back discussing this exact thing. I can't remember if you were in that discussion or not.
I want to build a test rig that would allow that type of connection. Do you have a link to what you are talking about? How does he connect the jumper to the PCB? The pots are easy to connect but I haven't found a good solution to make a good temp connection to the PCB.
Man, this is one of those things that keeps me up at night. I go green with envy and become completley mystified when I see gut shots from pros like Juansolo and others. It really boggles my mind how you guys can keep everything so clean, with wires bent in all the right places and the lengths just long enough. Its goddamn pedal porn I tell you! Seriously though, whenever I get ready to box something I tell myself that this is the pedal that will look beautiful and clean under the hood. Then something happens, I black out and wake up with a box filled with wires that are too long or too short, sloppy soldering, boards that are crooked, LEDs hanging on for dear life. Its a mess man. So, I tell myself I'll get em next time kid. And thats what I strive for, a little cleaner, a little tighter, and just overall a little prettier than the last. Yea maybe it sounds the same, but I want it to look RAD! Is it the wire? Should I use solid core? Is that how dudes get those sweet ass bends to stay in their wire that is cut to the perfect length? Well, back to looking at gut shots for this punk...
Quote from: peAk on March 19, 2014, 05:30:04 PM
see, I had a thread a while back discussing this exact thing. I can't remember if you were in that discussion or not.
I want to build a test rig that would allow that type of connection. Do you have a link to what you are talking about? How does he connect the jumper to the PCB? The pots are easy to connect but I haven't found a good solution to make a good temp connection to the PCB.
If the pads for your pots are on the edge of the board, you could probably reach them with the little claw. If they are too far from the edge to grab, you would just grab the leg of whatever component is connected to the pad. Does that make sense?
Quote from: upthepunxxx on March 19, 2014, 05:32:09 PM
Man, this is one of those things that keeps me up at night. I go green with envy and become completley mystified when I see gut shots from pros like Juansolo and others. It really boggles my mind how you guys can keep everything so clean, with wires bent in all the right places and the lengths just long enough. Its goddamn pedal porn I tell you! Seriously though, whenever I get ready to box something I tell myself that this is the pedal that will look beautiful and clean under the hood. Then something happens, I black out and wake up with a box filled with wires that are too long or too short, sloppy soldering, boards that are crooked, LEDs hanging on for dear life. Its a mess man. So, I tell myself I'll get em next time kid. And thats what I strive for, a little cleaner, a little tighter, and just overall a little prettier than the last. Yea maybe it sounds the same, but I want it to look RAD! Is it the wire? Should I use solid core? Is that how dudes get those sweet ass bends to stay in their wire that is cut to the perfect length? Well, back to looking at gut shots for this punk...
Go slow and be super patient. If each build is a little cleaner than the last, you're already doing the right thing!
Solid core wire gives perfect bends and strips easy. Downside is that it breaks easy.
Stranded wire is nice and flexible but doesn't like to hold its shape and the strands can fray and be annoying.
Pre-bonded is perfection. Flexible but hold its shape. No need to tin the wire ends since it's pre-tinned. Try the 24ga bonded from Smallbear. You'll probably never use anything else after that.
Quote from: Leevibe on March 19, 2014, 05:32:27 PM
Quote from: peAk on March 19, 2014, 05:30:04 PM
see, I had a thread a while back discussing this exact thing. I can't remember if you were in that discussion or not.
I want to build a test rig that would allow that type of connection. Do you have a link to what you are talking about? How does he connect the jumper to the PCB? The pots are easy to connect but I haven't found a good solution to make a good temp connection to the PCB.
If the pads for your pots are on the edge of the board, you could probably reach them with the little claw. If they are too far from the edge to grab, you would just grab the leg of whatever component is connected to the pad. Does that make sense?
Not sure I totally understand. Say I don't want to solder any wires to the pots, LEDs, in/out, etc. So say I want to test everything though with all the pots, LEDs, etc. How would I go about making a connection that will hold that isn't next to the edge of the PCB? So say a pot connection is in the middle of the board, what leg would you grab?
You would need the schematic or just trace the pad to whatever component lead it connects to on the board. You would then just clip to that lead from the top side of the board. These things are tiny enough to grab onto the little bit of exposed lead say between a resistor and it's pad. This is where a picture would help. Sorry about that. I'll take a picture tonight if it helps.
Quote from: Leevibe on March 19, 2014, 05:47:32 PM
You would need the schematic or just trace the pad to whatever component lead it connects to on the board. You would then just clip to that lead from the top side of the board. These things are tiny enough to grab onto the little bit of exposed lead say between a resistor and it's pad. This is where a picture would help. Sorry about that. I'll take a picture tonight if it helps.
oh, I see what you are saying. Duh.
What about these?
http://www.amazon.com/Minigrabber-5pc-Test-Lead-Set/dp/B00AZM59FY/ref=pd_sim_hi_7?ie=UTF8&refRID=0WE49Z7AD3YQ3SWW0PCJ
a member, can't remember who, suggested these. Ever used them?
Yep. I used some just yesterday. This type has a little retractible hook. They work well but sometimes they will pop off. The type I'm after, which I have one of already, have a little two piece claw that retracts. They really grab ahold and won't pop off until you decide to disconnect them.
Definitely interested in what you are talking about.
What would be ideal is a miniature banana style plug
you could try a breadboard jumper with a little blu-tack to hold it in place. Might be a bit sketchy but I actually might try it myself. Yeah, a tiny banana plug would be cool.
Yeah, might try that too
In conclusion, this is why I haven't actually built my test rig yet. I want to have a system where I can fully test a populated circuit (pots and all) before wiring anything. Maybe this is all wishful thinking but it's definitely what I am after right now because I don't think I can ever design a pedal layout at the same time I am working on the circuit. I build them a lot faster than I box them.
There's mini/micro pincers (claw) as opposed to the mini/micro hooks but i'm having no luck tracking them down.
Further looking would indicate mini grabbers for SMD is getting some positive feedback.
(http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTU3OVgxNjAw/z/yZQAAOxy0bRTCGud/$_12.JPG)
(http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTYwMFgxNjAw/z/vFcAAOxyoA1RRZea/$T2eC16ZHJHQE9nzEy9,bBRRZeZz8kw~~60_57.JPG)
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/New-50-PCS-Test-Clip-Mini-Grabber-SMD-IC-Hook-Probe-Jumper-5-Color-P07-/160983812971?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item257b620b6b&_uhb=1
I have some like the ones someone earlier linked from Amazon, work well but very light fragile wires, have had to repair a couple along the way.
Quote from: davent on March 19, 2014, 06:53:42 PM
There's mini/micro pincers (claw) as opposed to the mini/micro hooks but i'm having no luck tracking them down.
Further looking would indicate mini grabbers for SMD is getting some positive feedback.
(http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTU3OVgxNjAw/z/yZQAAOxy0bRTCGud/$_12.JPG)
(http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTYwMFgxNjAw/z/vFcAAOxyoA1RRZea/$T2eC16ZHJHQE9nzEy9,bBRRZeZz8kw~~60_57.JPG)
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/New-50-PCS-Test-Clip-Mini-Grabber-SMD-IC-Hook-Probe-Jumper-5-Color-P07-/160983812971?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item257b620b6b&_uhb=1
I have some like the ones someone earlier linked from Amazon, work well but very light fragile wires, have had to repair a couple along the way.
Check out my link earlier in the thread
Great... found it, thanks!
dave
Sorry davent. The pics didn't load on my phone before I replied. I think those are the same thing I found.
No problem, i missed your link first time through and yes we are pointing to the same type of device.
Take care!
dave
Quote from: peAk on March 19, 2014, 05:18:32 PM
Quote from: Jefe on March 19, 2014, 05:12:51 PM
Just butt splice in some more wire, and cover it with heat shrink tubing. If anyone tells you it looks ugly, then tell them to shove it.
Also, don't waste your money on a dedicated desoldering iron, just get a decent solder sucker & some desoldering braid. It's not like you're going to be making tons of repeat mistakes, right? I mean, i'll bet you never cut your wires too short ever again ;-)
the problem is, I never EVER think about the enclosure layout until my circuit is finished and working. So I always have these damn pots (I don't use pcb mount pots) hanging off with wire and it's never the right length. It's always too short or too long.
Too long by and inch or three is no big deal, just stuff it all in there. Think of the extra wire as "service loops". If you ever need to get in there to make repairs, you'll have room to spare. If you ever need to replace a pot, you'll have a little extra wire to play with already.
Seriously, I think some people pay waaaaaay too much attention to how the insides of their builds look. I've never understood that. Just box it up and rock it. The pretty girls dancing in front of the stage could care less about how the inside of your pedals look, or the fact that you built your own pedals for that matter. ;D
I bought desolder braid just for kicks, now by the time my desoldering iron heats up I don't need it.
Also, I bought tons of wire from chromesphere and it ally wires longer than I need. You can usually use the short bits you cut off for pots and things.
Quote from: Leevibe on March 19, 2014, 07:13:40 PM
Quote from: davent on March 19, 2014, 06:53:42 PM
There's mini/micro pincers (claw) as opposed to the mini/micro hooks but i'm having no luck tracking them down.
Further looking would indicate mini grabbers for SMD is getting some positive feedback.
(http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTU3OVgxNjAw/z/yZQAAOxy0bRTCGud/$_12.JPG)
(http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTYwMFgxNjAw/z/vFcAAOxyoA1RRZea/$T2eC16ZHJHQE9nzEy9,bBRRZeZz8kw~~60_57.JPG)
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/New-50-PCS-Test-Clip-Mini-Grabber-SMD-IC-Hook-Probe-Jumper-5-Color-P07-/160983812971?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item257b620b6b&_uhb=1
I have some like the ones someone earlier linked from Amazon, work well but very light fragile wires, have had to repair a couple along the way.
Check out my link earlier in the thread
Ordered some from Ebay, will see how it goes.
Quote from: peAk on March 19, 2014, 08:20:22 PMOrdered some from Ebay, will see how it goes.
Give an update when you get 'em
I am a little worried cause they were cheap....like 12 for around 6 bucks after shipping. It's coming locally so I should have soon.
No need to worry. There's not much to them and it's not like they're going to live in your pedal.
Quote from: Leevibe on March 19, 2014, 05:37:16 PM
Quote from: upthepunxxx on March 19, 2014, 05:32:09 PM
Man, this is one of those things that keeps me up at night. I go green with envy and become completley mystified when I see gut shots from pros like Juansolo and others. It really boggles my mind how you guys can keep everything so clean, with wires bent in all the right places and the lengths just long enough. Its goddamn pedal porn I tell you! Seriously though, whenever I get ready to box something I tell myself that this is the pedal that will look beautiful and clean under the hood. Then something happens, I black out and wake up with a box filled with wires that are too long or too short, sloppy soldering, boards that are crooked, LEDs hanging on for dear life. Its a mess man. So, I tell myself I'll get em next time kid. And thats what I strive for, a little cleaner, a little tighter, and just overall a little prettier than the last. Yea maybe it sounds the same, but I want it to look RAD! Is it the wire? Should I use solid core? Is that how dudes get those sweet ass bends to stay in their wire that is cut to the perfect length? Well, back to looking at gut shots for this punk...
Go slow and be super patient. If each build is a little cleaner than the last, you're already doing the right thing!
Solid core wire gives perfect bends and strips easy. Downside is that it breaks easy.
Stranded wire is nice and flexible but doesn't like to hold its shape and the strands can fray and be annoying.
Pre-bonded is perfection. Flexible but hold its shape. No need to tin the wire ends since it's pre-tinned. Try the 24ga bonded from Smallbear. You'll probably never use anything else after that.
Thanks brotha! I have some of the prebonded 24ga stuff from small bear. The only thing is that when I order the samples the wire is great, but when I ordered some 50 foot spools of a couple different colors, the wire was noticeably thinner. Probably just a random unrelated event as it seems like everyone else swears by the stuff. And like I said the sampler stuff and the red and black spools I ordered were perfecto, it was just the colored (blue, white, green) that were thinner. Not sure if that happened to anyone else? Anyways might try and take some solid core stuff for a spin, and try not to break it!
Quote from: upthepunxxx on March 20, 2014, 01:13:37 AM
Thanks brotha! I have some of the prebonded 24ga stuff from small bear. The only thing is that when I order the samples the wire is great, but when I ordered some 50 foot spools of a couple different colors, the wire was noticeably thinner. Probably just a random unrelated event as it seems like everyone else swears by the stuff. And like I said the sampler stuff and the red and black spools I ordered were perfecto, it was just the colored (blue, white, green) that were thinner. Not sure if that happened to anyone else? Anyways might try and take some solid core stuff for a spin, and try not to break it!
I had some of the sample stuff from Smallbear and just recently got a couple of spools of green and orange. I just checked and compared and it looks the same. So maybe that was random?
I like Smallbears as well as GPCBs. GPCBs is a lot thinner though.
They have it in different gauges. For my taste, thinner is better. Gives you more room to work. There's no benefit to thicker wire unless you like the chunkier look. No wire is going to be as thin as the traces on your PCB or your component leads, or the windings in your pickups for that matter.
Quote from: Leevibe on March 20, 2014, 02:33:58 AM
They have it in different gauges. For my taste, thinner is better. Gives you more room to work. There's no benefit to thicker wire unless you like the chunkier look. No wire is going to be as thin as the traces on your PCB or your component leads, or the windings in your pickups for that matter.
So do you prefer GPCBs wire?
I haven't tried it. I've always bought 50' spools of 24ga from SB. I don't have a good reason to change now. I always use blue just because I like how it looks. I've heard with the GPCB stuff that some of the colors may be better than others? Not sure about that.
I would just grab one of these at radio shack:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=17241906
They have a cheaper version also that works just as good. Only difference is the body is plastic. I have really good results using one of these and for a pad on the edge of the PCB it should be a breeze.
If you haven't used one, I would recommend securing the board in a vice. Orient the PCB so you can heat from the bottom side and suck from the top side of the pcb. Here are the steps I go through:
1. Heat the pad and remove the wire.
2. Heat the pad from the bottom side while holding the desoldering pump against the pad on the front side.
If you align the pump correctly and make sure the seal between the pcb and pump is as good as possible you should get it on the first try. If not, let everything cool down and try again. I've never had a pad lift using this method and I don't think I'll ever need a fancy pump - and I do a lot of desoldering! :P
Then again, it would be nice to have a fancy pump! ;)
Edit: I didn't realize this thread was 4 pages long and I'mm guessing my suggestion has already been mentioned! lol...
Maybe u could just measure what u will need and add a little more wire! Than after you can cut the excess and solder for good!
Quote from: Stomptown on March 20, 2014, 04:10:59 AM
I would just grab one of these at radio shack:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=17241906
They have a cheaper version also that works just as good. Only difference is the body is plastic. I have really good results using one of these and for a pad on the edge of the PCB it should be a breeze.
If you haven't used one, I would recommend securing the board in a vice. Orient the PCB so you can heat from the bottom side and suck from the top side of the pcb. Here are the steps I go through:
1. Heat the pad and remove the wire.
2. Heat the pad from the bottom side while holding the desoldering pump against the pad on the front side.
If you align the pump correctly and make sure the seal between the pcb and pump is as good as possible you should get it on the first try. If not, let everything cool down and try again. I've never had a pad lift using this method and I don't think I'll ever need a fancy pump - and I do a lot of desoldering! :P
Then again, it would be nice to have a fancy pump! ;)
Edit: I didn't realize this thread was 4 pages long and I'mm guessing my suggestion has already been mentioned! lol...
Belive it or not, this is the exact solder sucker that I have right now and I do exactly what you described. It works pretty well if you don't have a tight fit and you are pretty steady with your right and left hands. The problem is for the first time I had a pcb pad come off the other day with doing this method. Maybe it was just a isolated situation but luckily it was just a daughter board that was only populated with resistors.
Quote from: Gledison on March 20, 2014, 09:18:34 AM
Maybe u could just measure what u will need and add a little more wire! Than after you can cut the excess and solder for good!
This is where I am heading if my test rig and/or desoldering skills don't cut it. Wire is cheap and desoldering pot lugs isn't a big deal
Well Lee,
Let me just say that the toothpick trick works like a charm.
Whoever came up with this method, give that man a raise!
Haha! Can I have a raise for telling you about it?
Quote from: Leevibe on March 20, 2014, 09:42:09 PM
Haha! Can I have a raise for telling you about it?
(raising my beer to you)
Lots of great ideas here but honestly, and no offense, it seems like a ton of work to avoid a little work that gets easier with practice. Toothpick works great. Think about bread boarding too before you build. You'll learn a ton also.
As for pot wiring, leave them long, test, and then adjust the length at the pot when you box. Make sure to leave a little slack for strain relief.