The way by board is currently wired is that the LED Indicator is pulsating all the time. I have the LED wired directly from the board. Is it possible to wire it, so that when the effect is bypassed the Indicator LED is off?
I'm using a 1776 3PDT board which has space for a LED (currently blank). I was thinking of running some wires (ie + from PCB connected to + of 3PDT) from the 3PDT board to the LED Indicator on the PCB, but Im not sure it would work
If the third lug is currently empty, you can absolutely do it via the 3pdt board. What you need to do is complete your circuit not circuit-led-circuit as it is no but circuit-led-3pdt-circuit. Lemme try and set up a graphic for you. It may take a while, though! ;D
Not a problem, I might end up leaving it the way it is. Would something like this work:
(http://i.imgur.com/Q8OgK6p.png)
Maybe there is a simpler solution
This is how I'd do it. Solder directly to lugs on the 3pdt.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/DWPViF2nV6ywVFEh_85jzTVI5MNPPqf3XjvgFGoG_Lc=w801-h370-no)
Just to clarify that I am getting this correctly. The A-1 would have the positive lead of the indicator LED and A-2 would be the negative lead?
Doesnt matter, you are just inserting the 3pdt switch to break the lfo circuit so you can insert it at whichever side of the led you prefer. So you can go circuit - led+ - led- - a1 - a2 - circuit or circuit - led- - led+ - a1 - a2 - circuit
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I don't think I'm getting this properly
I just tried it out - the Indicator LED is always on. The LFO LED is always on. When I switch the effect off the LED is off (so thats a success), but the pulsing stopped. The depth knob controls the intensity
What I did was connect the positive lead of the indicator diode to A1 and the negative lead to A2, thats if I am understanding this whole circuit thing properly. Is the actual LFO circuit have to be connected?
EDIT:
No Worries about this. I've grown to like that indicator, Ill be keeping it always on
Slow down, guys.
No one asked the OP what circuit he was working with.
There are multiple ways the LED gets driven, not all of which are a connection to ground.
If it's not a connection to ground, then you will not be able to wire it through the 3PDT PCB easily.
It's the electric boogaloo / Shoot the Moon Tremolo:
(http://www.grindcustomsfx.com/forum/download/file.php?id=149)
I made a dark cap/cover to place over the indicator so there is no need to turn it off via the circuit
Quote from: ddog on March 22, 2014, 06:55:02 PM
I don't think I'm getting this properly
I just tried it out - the Indicator LED is always on. The LFO LED is always on. When I switch the effect off the LED is off (so thats a success), but the pulsing stopped. The depth knob controls the intensity
What I did was connect the positive lead of the indicator diode to A1 and the negative lead to A2, thats if I am understanding this whole circuit thing properly. Is the actual LFO circuit have to be connected?
Yes, we're getting the wires crossed, so to speak. ;D
It'd help if we knew the exact schematic we're working with, because now there's talk of an indicator LED?
Normally, with 1776 board, 3pdt columns B and C are used for the entire circuit true bypass and column A is an on/off indicator LED circuit. In this constellation, you can't use the led circuit in parallel with any LFO circuit.
On the other hand, if you are willing to forego a "normal" indicator LED and use the A circuit to make or break your LFO circuit (in effect using your pulsing LFO as an indicator LED), you can do that. For instance I did that in one of my Tremulus Lune builds back on vero. I'm also assuming it's not the actual LFO led we're talking about (since that one is likely taped to a LDR?) but some sort of LED that fluctuates with rate/depth/whatever?
Stomping on a switch would bypass the circuit and also disconnect your LED from the rest of the circuit. Naturally the circuit would still be under power but the visual indication would be off. Is this what you need?
Haha... didn't need to write all that, apparently. ;D
Yep that was the original goal - use the LFO Indicator LED instead of the True Bypass Indicator LED.
When I stick the positive/negative leads to A1/A2 and turn on the effect
the LFO Indicator LED is always on
the actual LFO LED is also always on
if I play around with the depth knob, the actual LFO LED changes brightness, but the Indicator LED is at the same brightness
Its all settled now though. Thanks for the help! :)
Good to hear. Still, if you want, we can do it the stompbox way. It's really an easy modification (a1/a2 don't go to led +/- ;D ). Just give us a holla.
Let's hear it, although the plastic cap over the LED works, its not that much of an elegant solution
OK so I'm guessing we're talking about the D1 LED, coming off opamp pin7. Two options, same result.
- Take that pin 7 and connect it to A1. Connect A2 to LED anode. Leave LED cathode where it is (R6/R7). Or
- Leave LED anode where it is (pin7), connect LED cathode to A1, connect A2 to R6/R7.
Done. When effect is on, so is your D1. When effect is off, your pin7-LED-R6/R7 part of the circuit is broken, no light (even though the rest of the circuit is actually operational, as it's still attached to DC). Use D1 for "circuit operational" instead of the +L bit and Robert's your mother's brother.
I tried pin 7 - A1 and anode - A2; the LED is always on and not pulsating. The actual LFO is also not working (although I can control it's brightness with depth)
Then I tried the
LED cathode to A1, connect A2 to R6/R7.
and it almost worked!! THe reverse happened:
when the effect is on, the LFO is off (no sound just noise)
and when the effect is off the LFO is on and pulsating (even though my signal is bypassed)
I tried switching the A1/A2 in that case and it all stopped working
So Close!!
for the r6/r7 option I just connected it to one - the r7
This makes no sense to me ;D
Putting an a1/a2 switch before or after the D1 is completely the same thing. I don't get how you got different results.
When the effect is off, a2 is connected to a3 and they are both grounded. a1 and a2 aren't connected so I don't see how you can get current flow through the LED?
Yes, r6 and r7 are connected , as long as you are at the potential where the two are connected together, it doesn't matter which one you connect to.
I re-tried it. This time with
A1 - Cathode
A2 - R6
When I turn on the effect, the LED Indicator is On, but the LFO LED is not pulsating (depth still works, speed does not affect rate)
Turn off the effect, both LEDs are fine
I haven't done a sound test, but I assume since the LFO is not pulsating it won't work.
I'm going to re-try on a clear head tomorrow. Its probably something simple I'm missing.
Here's a stupid question - the anode is negative and usually round pad and the cathode is positive and usually square pad,?
By the way really appreciate the help!
Actually Cathode = negative and anode = positive. As far as square/round pads go, I wouldn't count on that as an indicator since some folks use square pad for anode and some for cathode. Just follow the silk screen and place the short led leg in the side pictured as flat.
Has anyone confirmed that the 1776 3PDT PCB follows the same form as the madbean wiring diagram? I ask because there are different ways to wire a 3pdt to achieve true bypass. Some use B1 for their led indicator while most of us here do use A1. Also, madbean connects A2 to A3, which means that A1 is sent to ground when your effect is engaged. I'm not sure if 1776 does this as well but this would cause issues for the suggestions you've been given. If A2 is not tied to ground, you should try to accomplish this using the LED pads rather than connecting directly to the parts suggested.
Before taking another crack at this I would contact Josh from 1776 to find out if A1 is meant for the LED, and if so, if A2 is grounded.
I just looked at my schematic for my version of the shoot the moon which includes a mod to urn off the rate LED and it is confirmed to work. For the Grind Customs version you would need to desolder and lift the side of R7 connected to ground and run a wire from that side of the resistor to A1. Or you could remove the resistor altogether and solder one side of the resistor directly to A1. Then solder a wire to the other end of the resistor and run it to the R7 PCB pad connected to the rate led.
Quote from: Stomptown on March 23, 2014, 02:56:32 AM
I just looked at my schematic for my version of the shoot the moon which includes a mod to urn off the rate LED and it is confirmed to work. For the Grind Customs version you would need to desolder and lift the side of R7 connected to ground and run a wire from that side of the resistor to A1. Or you could remove the resistor altogether and solder one side directly to D1. Then solder a wire to the other end and run it to the R7 PCB pad connected to the rate led.
I was just gonna say this....mind=blown
Quote from: jimilee on March 23, 2014, 04:30:45 AM
Quote from: Stomptown on March 23, 2014, 02:56:32 AM
I just looked at my schematic for my version of the shoot the moon which includes a mod to urn off the rate LED and it is confirmed to work. For the Grind Customs version you would need to desolder and lift the side of R7 connected to ground and run a wire from that side of the resistor to A1. Or you could remove the resistor altogether and solder one side directly to D1. Then solder a wire to the other end and run it to the R7 PCB pad connected to the rate led.
I was just gonna say this....mind=blown
I just updated my post since I accidentally refered to A1 as D1. Oops!
I have the 1776 board right here and A part is led-only, a2 and a3 grounded, a1 to cathode round pad.
Unless of course there are multiple board revisions. ;-)
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If A2 is grounded then you cannot use it in either of the ways suggested. The way I suggested will definitely make the rate led blink and turn off in bypass.
Agreed. My bad!
Unfortunately it's a ground plane and cannot simply be disconnected from ground.
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Quote from: muddyfox on March 23, 2014, 06:33:40 PM
Agreed. My bad!
Unfortunately it's a ground plane and the pads cannot be simply. disconnected from ground.
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Small update - I haven't tried the mod yet. I feel like an artist - who tries to add the finishing touch to his painting and ruins the entire thing. I'm going to keep it boxed up for now and if (when) something breaks I'll try out the mod