Meatball envelope filter.
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/1Meatball_zps8ccb4980.jpg)
Pretty fun pedal, but a painful build for a number of reasons.
Taylor's projects are great, but his multilayer boards are extremely easy to wreck. Either get it right the first time or suffer the consequences. Desoldering nearly always will lift traces or worse, cause shorts. I had to rebuild the LED section on vero as swapping the Leds was too much for it. Luckily, despite having no less than 10 controls, it's a relatively simple circuit.
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/guts_zpsf753ab40.jpg)
As I discovered was the experience of other builders here, all my Tayda LM1458s didn't work, but luckily I had one RCA chip which worked perfectly.
After considerable trial and error I found 3mm yellow leds worked best with my LDRs. Green 5mm seems to be popular, but I don't think it is about the color so much as the pairing of the leds to the ldrs. Green Leds just didn't put the sweep in a useable range with my ldrs.
Apart from a couple of days tweaking, the painful part was when I managed to plunge a small flathead screwdriver into the tip of my left index finger. Ouch! Won't be playing guitar for a couple more days at least. :(
When I can, I'm going to play it a while, but have plans to fiddle with it a bit more too- going to try adding a LFO for a bit of fun
Ouch!
Cool looking build though man, I like the gradient! I've got a board for one of these I will be doing at some point so will make a note of your experiences for when it comes to populating mine!
Glad you got it going! I made sure to order some 1458's from Mouser when I got some enclosures :)
Best control of all with the Meatball is the Range, in my experience. It lets you dial it in, exactly.
Great looking build and the fact that you stuck with it and fixed it is very inspiring. Cool gradient effect on the paint job also.
Cody
Thanks guys. :)
I haven't played it enough yet, but I'm digging it so far.
Paint is just a few colors of rattle can.
Lots of controls, but they're all quite useful. I thought the rotary switches were a little overkill. It's certainly not necessary for the up/down control. I guess it was more for symmetry.
I'm keen to try your LT layouts Alan. :D
good stuff as usual :)
what LDRs did you use?
I bought a big bag of 100 cheap on ebay a while back, they varied from 100ohm-10k light thru 2-3Mdark. I sorted them roughly, and used a pair from my bag of "biggest range", though I wish measured them again before I used them so I could tell you exactly what they were...but would be less than 1k- 2M.
Thats gorgeous mate.
Sublime as usual 8)
That's beautiful man. Very impressive. Where do you buy knobs?
Nice build! Love me some Meatball.
How'd you get that color on the box? Totally awesome!
Quote from: Guitarmageddon on May 12, 2014, 10:38:39 AM
I bought a big bag of 100 cheap on ebay a while back, they varied from 100ohm-10k light thru 2-3Mdark. I sorted them roughly, and used a pair from my bag of "biggest range", though I wish measured them again before I used them so I could tell you exactly what they were...but would be less than 1k- 2M.
cool
Ive tended to use 20k/2M in meatballs with green LEDs and its worked out pretty nice.
Great build!
And thanks for the tip on the 1458s. I have one of these half built & it's not working as I would expect. I don't know where I got my 1458s, but I will try swapping it - or buying new ones if necessary.
Nice build! Like the graphics and fade.
And I empathize with you, I have done the same exact "screwdriver through the finger thing". Yikes! :o :o
I love the colour combination and the knobs. Good job!
Great build!!!
Must have been on backlog for a while..... I dont think Taylor has had that PCB in stock for over a YEAR!! :o
Thanks Guys.
Quote from: Leevibe on May 12, 2014, 01:25:03 PM
Where do you buy knobs?
The small ones are on ebay, (for splined shaft-watchout, they come in a D shaft too!), the bigger one's Mammoth (needed a set screw for the rotary switches) I used to use them a lot but they've changed from a brass to a plastic grub screw insert. POS strip with just a rough word, so I'm afraid I won't be getting those anymore. >:(
Quote from: Droogie on May 12, 2014, 03:21:05 PMHow'd you get that color on the box? Totally awesome!
It's layers or red, black, yellow and green rattle can, with some wet sanding. Looks fancier than it is. ;D
Quote from: bcalla on May 12, 2014, 03:53:51 PM
Great build!
And thanks for the tip on the 1458s. I have one of these half built & it's not working as I would expect. I don't know where I got my 1458s, but I will try swapping it - or buying new ones if necessary.
If you've got a dud 1458 you'll hear filtering if you cover/uncover the ldrs, but the leds won't respond to input signal.
NE5532 will work too, (some build reports favoured it ) and even a LM072 works in my build. They all produce different sounds as you'll observe the range the leds illuminate change. The 1458 definitely works best for me.
I want to stress that I'm not TAYDA-bashing, I love that place. Interestingly, all my LM1458 work perfectly well when used in the LFO of a shoot the moon. So it's not that they're bad, just that they don't work in a meatball.
Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on May 12, 2014, 06:47:04 PM
Must have been on backlog for a while..... I dont think Taylor has had that PCB in stock for over a YEAR!! :o
That's true, I'm told that if I were to put every board in my box of yet to build PCBs back-to-back, they'll reach from Melbourne to Perth. :o
Man, I always dig your builds and this is right up there.
Superb built Ben! 8)
Really wish that i had got mine working.... ::)
Killer build! I don't envy you having to drill that enclosure, though. Well done.
Quote from: lincolnic on May 13, 2014, 04:01:27 AM
I don't envy you having to drill that enclosure, though. Well done.
Ha ha!
Yes, I'd already soldered the rotaries, so it was a case of measure thrice then drill way oversized holes! ;D