This worked until I attempted to fix it. Which I apparently am not good at.
Originally had it wired to have a battery and DC jack. there was a little hum, so I decided to re-do it - this was my 3rd pedal so I thought the manual wiring on the 3pdt could be the culprit. I put in a new input jack, got rid of the battery, and put in a new 3PDT with 1776 board on the switch.
before my precision repair work, I did get bypass, with a bit of hum whether the effect was engaged or bypassed. but the fuzz did work. it actually even sounded good.
now I get perfectly clean bypass and no effect. also the LED does not turn on. I ran the SW on the PCB to the round hole on the 1776 board.
if anyone could point me in the right direction, it would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Pat
picture
picture 3
jack to board
did you reuse the same 3pdt pcb? You may have damaged a connection from top side to bottom side when you desoldered the old switch and dc jack. Use a multimeter to check continuity on each connection and trace of your 3pdt pcb. You can also verify the switch works.
Failing that, you may have a short, maybe at the led? You're getting bypass, so the connections to in/out are probably sound. Also, the pcb worked before, and assuming you didn't do anything to it, it probably still does but just isn't getting power.
wait, I read that quick, you didn't have 3pdt switch before but do now?
I'm guessing your led connection may be reversed. Try switching the wire to the other led hole on the pcb.
before I attempted to fix it, I had the 3PDT wired normally, connecting each point with wire. it did work, but there was a hum, which I thought may have been caused by it being kind of a hack job.
I put in a new 3PDT switch (just cut the wires off the old one and removed it), soldered the break out board, and then experienced the familiar crushing blow of turning the effect on for the first time, and hearing nothing.
if the LED is in the wrong pad, can that kill the whole circuit? is the round one incorrect?
If wrong, it can short, and then you don't get 9V to your circuit, just to ground. I don't know that breakout pcb but seems possible. Also can't see your led.
The quickest safe thing to do would be to check the led for shorting to the pcb above, box, etc. Then disconnect that led wire from the breakout pcb, as well as the other wire. See if it works then.
As for the hum, could be a few things but likely a bad ground connection somewhere, perhaps even outside the box that the fuzz is then making more apparent.
I guess I'll try to remove the led wire from the 3pdt board
Before I attempted to fix this, the LED worked fine. I had the pedal boxed up and working for around two weeks. I just put with the hum due to the novelty that I made something that worked to an extent
Looking at the mangler 2014 pcb schematic, the square SW pad is connected with a green line, to the square pad on the LED. I wonder if connecting the round LED pad from the 3pdt is what is messing it up
If there is a LED problem it isn't going to change whether the effect works or not. First off, do you have 9V to the pad on the mangler PCB?
Josh
Quote from: gtr2 on May 16, 2014, 01:06:57 PM
If there is a LED problem it isn't going to change whether the effect works or not. First off, do you have 9V to the pad on the mangler PCB?
Josh
i think thats wrong, if the led has a short, then the circuit will be in short, thats common sense, if something its in short the led wont turn on, i always use that as a way to see if something its wrong, check voltages with multimeter, and also check the led polarity to see if you have not wire it upside down
Quote from: copachino on May 16, 2014, 01:15:28 PM
Quote from: gtr2 on May 16, 2014, 01:06:57 PM
If there is a LED problem it isn't going to change whether the effect works or not. First off, do you have 9V to the pad on the mangler PCB?
Josh
i think thats wrong, if the led has a short, then the circuit will be in short, thats common sense, if something its in short the led wont turn on, i always use that as a way to see if something its wrong, check voltages with multimeter, and also check the led polarity to see if you have not wire it upside down
I've never had an LED "short", I've blown plenty ;) And if a short was the case, other things would happen to raise a red flag... If the polarity is backwards on the LED, the LED just won't light because it is functioning as a diode... In fact you can reach a breakdown voltage on a LED and it acts as a zener diode...
Josh
We don't know anything unless we have voltages :)
The main thing I can see going on is that you've used the wrong lug for the red wire on your dc jack. It needs to be moved to the one that's currently empty. The one you used is where the red lead of a battery clip would attach.
I hope this helps!
Bret is right. I didn't catch that the first go around on the pics. A voltage check would have caught that.
Quote from: Bret608 on May 16, 2014, 02:57:06 PM
The main thing I can see going on is that you've used the wrong lug for the red wire on your dc jack. It needs to be moved to the one that's currently empty. The one you used is where the red lead of a battery clip would attach.
I hope this helps!
Yes, this is absolutely right. You haven't got any power on your board.
Nevertheless, I want to go back to the diode questions from before as well. As far as I can tell from your pics, you hooked up the LED pad on the PCB to the round pad (negative) on the 3PDT board. If this is the case, all your power should directly go through the CLR and then to ground. So fixing the 9V input problem alone won't fix your problem completely, I pressume.
How did you solder your LED then? The way I see it, you can either just leave the LED pad on the PCB and use the pads on the 3PDT board with the CLR on there, or hook up the LED pad to the + lead of the LED and the - lead of the LED then to the ROUND pad on the 3PDT board.
Hope you can fix your problems, cheers
You bet, Josh. I'm guessing little or no voltage making it to the circuit? Strangely enough, I haven't yet made that particular mistake myself as of yet! ;)
I hope this gets things up and running for you! I once built a chorus that was really noisy in bypass (and not much better engaged). Switching to one of Josh's 3PDT boards was the perfect fix.
Sorry Felix, I didn't see your reply until just now. Wow! I did not know hooking the LED up that way would just send all the power to ground. I guess I learned something from this thread too.
Flipped the wire on the DC jack - IT WORKS
I can't thank you guys enough. I thought you could use either positive terminal. It took longer to set up all my soldering gear, than it did to fix the thing. And the LED works too, and the hum is gone.
Those 1776 boards are nice and make the 3PDT super easy, although, you all already know that.
In conclusion, thank you again. My blood pressure is back to normal, I will sleep tonight, and am no longer angry at inanimate objects.
Pat
Congrats!
Quote from: Bret608 on May 16, 2014, 04:47:00 PM
Sorry Felix, I didn't see your reply until just now. Wow! I did not know hooking the LED up that way would just send all the power to ground. I guess I learned something from this thread too.
Actually, I was just guessing and making assumptions here mostly since I couldn't see the LED itself on any of the pictures. What I thought to see was a direct wire connecting the LED pad with the ground pad on the 3PDT board thus shorting the power supply. But since the LED has to be somewhere (I hope in between those pads ;)) then there's no problem
Congratulations indeed! Really glad you are happy with it. Glad we were able to help you and that the LED is working too. I may have to come back and look at this again if I ever use a 1776 3PDT board on a build that has LED circuitry on the main PCB.